I'm trying to figure out how to set my SWG for optimal service life. I've read some of the posts on the subject and my Turbo cell seems to be very efficient. The problem is reconciling the amount of time the cell is on with time needed for good circulation. I think my pump is too small for the size of the pool, (any advice on what I should I replace it with would also be appreciated) and the circulation isn't too good either since there is only the one return at the deep end, one skimmer, two jets in the pool, one in the spa and a spa return. So I like to run the pump 8-12 hours/day. This causes a dilemma with the turbo cell run time, at 10% and 8 hrs/day I can barely keep the FC between 5-7 ( I need it high due to recurring algae problems at lower FC) It runs so great that I have to turn it off which I have to do manually because I can't seem to get it on my iAqua link due to it not being hooked up to the main control panel ( I can't remember the reason why it couldn't be connected) So the I guess the question is, does it reduce the life of the cell if it runs on 5% 8-10 hrs/day from June til Oct.?
SWG setting
- Thread starter patdelacruz
- Start date
5-7 FC should be just fine. You must have some other issue going on, what is your CYA level?
Running your SWG at lower percentages increases life, not vice versa.
Running your SWG at lower percentages increases life, not vice versa.
What is your CYA level? That determines the required FC level according to the FC/CYA Chart.
If you have not followed the ShockLevelAndMAINTAIN Process to eradicate the algae, then it likely could still be growing and consuming your FC.
The life of the cell is based on the amount it runs ... does not matter if it is 5% for 10 hours or 10% for 5 hours.
Although, I am pretty surprised that you are able to run the SWG so little. I have the same SWG and have to run significantly more than that on a smaller pool.
BTW, most pumps are over-sized. Yours is fine, in fact, a 2-speed would be even better to run at a lower speed and save $ on power.
If you have not followed the ShockLevelAndMAINTAIN Process to eradicate the algae, then it likely could still be growing and consuming your FC.
The life of the cell is based on the amount it runs ... does not matter if it is 5% for 10 hours or 10% for 5 hours.
Although, I am pretty surprised that you are able to run the SWG so little. I have the same SWG and have to run significantly more than that on a smaller pool.
BTW, most pumps are over-sized. Yours is fine, in fact, a 2-speed would be even better to run at a lower speed and save $ on power.
You have more returns and such than I do too, and my pool is double the size of yours!
Can you post a full set of test results:
FC, free chlorine
CC combined chlorine
pH
TA alkalinity
CYA cyanuric acid aka stabilizer
CH calcium hardness
With 8 hours and 10% you are putting in .3 ppm of FC into the pool a day. Most balanced pools use 2-4 ppm of chlorine a day during the summer. I would leave the run time at 10 hours and bump the SWG to 80%. Your test results above might help to explain some of this why you are losing a small portion of FC a day.
A 1HP pump should be fine for circulation, but I'm not sure how well it works for the spa. Are you happy with the spa performance or do you have a booster for the spa.
FC, free chlorine
CC combined chlorine
pH
TA alkalinity
CYA cyanuric acid aka stabilizer
CH calcium hardness
With 8 hours and 10% you are putting in .3 ppm of FC into the pool a day. Most balanced pools use 2-4 ppm of chlorine a day during the summer. I would leave the run time at 10 hours and bump the SWG to 80%. Your test results above might help to explain some of this why you are losing a small portion of FC a day.
A 1HP pump should be fine for circulation, but I'm not sure how well it works for the spa. Are you happy with the spa performance or do you have a booster for the spa.
This morning my chems were:
FC 4
cc 0.5
pH 7.2
TA 50
CYA 60
CH 350
salt 2800
CSI -0.74
My pool calc app says I need to add 12 pds Baking soda, and 1 3/4 bag salt which I will do shortly.
When the plastering was completed we weren't satisfied with the appearance (too much "butter"- white plaster not enough aggregate exposed during acid wash done before pool was refilled) so the pool contractor did an acid bath for 4 days and it looked a lot better. When they brought the pH back up they didn't put in enough chlorine and the pool got cloudy and the CC went up, I begged them to increase the FC but they said it was plaster dust, turned out I was right and it took them a week and enough chlorine for 100,000k pool (according to the pool tech) to clear up the problem. That's why I started using what I thought was a non-chlorine shock, which I recently found out was actually Chlorine and had some copper too. Anyway, I turned off the chlorinator in order to take my sample to the pool builder for my once monthly chems. required for the 20 yr warranty and then used the Shock from Walmart because I was afraid I'd get algae because I had let the FC get so low. So now I want to get back on track with the BBB method. Ping says I should set the SWG to 80%, I think if I run that for 10 hrs/day my FC will be sky high in a day or two but I don't mind trying it. I'm not sure how you can follow one person on this site but I have recently posted other threads that might help explain what's been going on with my pool, the first one is about the new plaster and algae. I'm going to bump up the SWG to 80% and add the BS and salt. I'll report back in a few days.
FC 4
cc 0.5
pH 7.2
TA 50
CYA 60
CH 350
salt 2800
CSI -0.74
My pool calc app says I need to add 12 pds Baking soda, and 1 3/4 bag salt which I will do shortly.
When the plastering was completed we weren't satisfied with the appearance (too much "butter"- white plaster not enough aggregate exposed during acid wash done before pool was refilled) so the pool contractor did an acid bath for 4 days and it looked a lot better. When they brought the pH back up they didn't put in enough chlorine and the pool got cloudy and the CC went up, I begged them to increase the FC but they said it was plaster dust, turned out I was right and it took them a week and enough chlorine for 100,000k pool (according to the pool tech) to clear up the problem. That's why I started using what I thought was a non-chlorine shock, which I recently found out was actually Chlorine and had some copper too. Anyway, I turned off the chlorinator in order to take my sample to the pool builder for my once monthly chems. required for the 20 yr warranty and then used the Shock from Walmart because I was afraid I'd get algae because I had let the FC get so low. So now I want to get back on track with the BBB method. Ping says I should set the SWG to 80%, I think if I run that for 10 hrs/day my FC will be sky high in a day or two but I don't mind trying it. I'm not sure how you can follow one person on this site but I have recently posted other threads that might help explain what's been going on with my pool, the first one is about the new plaster and algae. I'm going to bump up the SWG to 80% and add the BS and salt. I'll report back in a few days.
What TA are you targeting? I would not raise it above 70ppm or your pH is going to start climbing faster. Really your pH should likely be a little higher to avoid the highly negative CSI.
Did you test that salt level or is that what the SWG is reporting?
Did you test that salt level or is that what the SWG is reporting?
I calculate you are adding .232ppm of FC at 8 hour runtime for 10 hours per day. I have no idea how you are maintaining 4ppm.
I don't understand your post Robbie ...
OP will add ~0.3ppm of FC every hour at 100% output.
I agree I am not sure how 10% for 8 hours is maintaining enough FC ... that would only be 0.24ppm FC per day {maybe that is what Robbie was pointing out}
OP will add ~0.3ppm of FC every hour at 100% output.
I agree I am not sure how 10% for 8 hours is maintaining enough FC ... that would only be 0.24ppm FC per day {maybe that is what Robbie was pointing out}
That's exactly what I am saying. He says his current FC is 4, but he's only adding .232 (or .24 on your calc) per day.
Maybe it is really set on 100% and not 10% ... then everything would make perfect sense 
Well, 2.32 per day still wouldn't hold 4ppm I don't think. Possibly, but I think unlikely. 
- Jun 12, 2011
- 3,763
- Pool Size
- 19500
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pureline Crystal Pure 60,000
Is the OP using the Pool Calculator? It should give suggested goals. His pH is too low, CYA should be increased (70-80 range w/ 80 better), salt is also too low. Rebalancing these factors would change the CSI without having to raise the TA (which in a SWG pool can make in harder to maintain a stable pH). The recommended min FC level for a SWG pool is 4.
As far as the longevity of salt cells, I've had pretty good luck. My last T-15 lasted over 7 years. I keep the CYA correct so all CH isn't burned off by the sun, maintain my salt at or even slightly above the recomend level for the system, and keep a very close eye on my water balance (including the CSI which prevents scaling in the cell and pool). Using the Pool Calculator makes it easy.
As far as the longevity of salt cells, I've had pretty good luck. My last T-15 lasted over 7 years. I keep the CYA correct so all CH isn't burned off by the sun, maintain my salt at or even slightly above the recomend level for the system, and keep a very close eye on my water balance (including the CSI which prevents scaling in the cell and pool). Using the Pool Calculator makes it easy.
You have been away awhile there chief ... we no longer recommend the un-updated pool calculator. We now have our own version: PoolMath
- Jun 12, 2011
- 3,763
- Pool Size
- 19500
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pureline Crystal Pure 60,000
Very little difference between the numbers from Pool Calculator and PoolMath. It's more a matter of who owns (and controls the site), but I will change my browser to PoolMath. At least it isn't loaded with adds like the Pool Calculator has become.
Thanks,
wej
Thanks,
wej
Shock levels were updated to match Pool School.
8.25% bleach and bottle sizes were added.
Plus some other minor things I think.
8.25% bleach and bottle sizes were added.
Plus some other minor things I think.
Lots of advice, getting a bit confused. I upped the SWG to 80% from 11 am to 5pm. FC was 4 went up to 7. My CYA can't go over 60 because of the parameters set for the new plaster warranty which stipulates FC less than or equal to 3, TA 75-90 , CYA 40-60, saturation index +/- 0.3 (best 0- 0.3)
pH 7.2 - 7.6 . I've been trying to keep my pH low by adding acid daily to keep up with the new plaster and because I'm trying to keep my FC lower than I used to because to the warranty and because I thought I read that the chlorine works better at lower pH. I also used to keep my salt at the upper limit but because of the new plaster I keep having to take water out, I was at 420 day before yesterday and pool builder said to take water out to lower CH which is now 350, but it means I keep having to add chemicals due to dilution. I added cellulose today to try to clear up water which is a bit hazy due to excess plaster, does look clearer.
pH 7.2 - 7.6 . I've been trying to keep my pH low by adding acid daily to keep up with the new plaster and because I'm trying to keep my FC lower than I used to because to the warranty and because I thought I read that the chlorine works better at lower pH. I also used to keep my salt at the upper limit but because of the new plaster I keep having to take water out, I was at 420 day before yesterday and pool builder said to take water out to lower CH which is now 350, but it means I keep having to add chemicals due to dilution. I added cellulose today to try to clear up water which is a bit hazy due to excess plaster, does look clearer.
How old is the plaster? If over a month you should not be getting any plaster dust in the water. If it is under a month there should not be any salt in the water so something is making sense here.
I'm getting a little confused on how .3 ppm of chlorine a day was holding around 4, recurring algae, plaster dust, your test range can lead to CSI to around -.6, etc....
I'm getting a little confused on how .3 ppm of chlorine a day was holding around 4, recurring algae, plaster dust, your test range can lead to CSI to around -.6, etc....
Plaster is 2 months old now but a second acid bath was performed (unbeknownst to me, while we were away on vacation about 26 days ago), the reason there is salt is because the pool builders rep put it in after 3 weeks-I had nothing to do with it, when I asked he said it had been long enough. I don't have algae now and water clearer after adding cellulose yesterday. I'm trying to avoid problems but stay within warranty parameters. Have decided to keep FC between 5-7 and when I bring in my monthly required sample I'll just have to let the sample sit until the FC goes down but I'll have to follow the other parameters I listed previously. FC was 6.5 at 9 this morning when I turned SWG on. Will run it at 80% until 4pm and see where it is then.