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Thread: Algae and my new plaster

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    patdelacruz's Avatar
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    Algae and my new plaster

    I love the TFP method, I used the BBB for 5 years until I recently had my pool replastered. Now I have to submit water once a month for testing to keep my warranty. I have been keeping my SWG pool at FC 5-7, CYA 70-80, pH 7.5-7.8, TA 70-90. The reason for the high FC is that I live on a golf course with a slow moving stream between me and the golf course and I've had a few run ins with algae. I think the phosphates from the fertilizer being blown with machines on fairway toward my pool seem to cause algae blooms. At any rate the new chemical requirements are causing me problems. I'm supposed to keep my FC at 1-3 the CYA 40-60, TA 75-90 and pH 7.2-7.6. I've been using what I thought was a non-chlorine shock because I've been afraid of getting an algae bloom. But, it turned out to be 37% chlorine. The pool company says high chlorine will cause staining on our new Sunstone Golden Pearl. How can I keep my warranty and keep from having algae? And how do I get my pool stats at the bottom of my posts?

    19x38 22,000 gal SWG gunite pool Hayward sand filter

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    Mod Squad JVTrain's Avatar
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    Re: Algae and my new plaster

    Once a month to test, let your FC drop to 3 and collect a sample? According to the Chlorine/CYA chart in Pool School, you can run a SWG at 60 CYA with a minumum FC of 3. Probably not optimal for FL, but doable. If you want insurance, you could add some Polyquat 60 as an algae preventative.

    To add the details of your pool to your signature, click on the Settings link in the upper right, then click the Edit Signature link on the left side. Add your details and be sure to click Save when done.
    Joel - TFP Moderator - Minnesota - **Become a TFP Supporter!** Helpful Links: ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry - SLAM Procedure - Chlorine/CYA Chart
    40x20 Pool: 32K Gallons * Vinyl * Bleach Chlorination * Hayward S270T Sand Filter * Pentair SuperFlo 1 HP * Teledyne/Laars Heater * AquaVac Tigershark * TF-100 w/ SpeedStir
    Isolated Spa - 345 Gallons

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    svenpup's Avatar
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    Re: Algae and my new plaster

    How do you have to submit it? FC and pH will start changing as soon as the sample is taken.
    TFP Method Advanced Intermediate
    • 17,500 gallons - In Ground - Plaster - Hayward Swimclear 3020 Cartridge Filter - Sta-Rite Max-E-Glas Main Pump upgraded with A.O. Smith B2980 E-Plus New Centurion Two-Speed Motor - Polaris 280 Cleaner with Polaris PB4-60 Booster Pump - TightWatt2 Timer - Taylor K-2006 Test Kit - Pool Pilot Digital Nano SWCG

    Helpful Links: Pool School, BBB for Beginners, How to Shock (hint...it's a process not a product), Chlorine/CYA Chart, Jason's Pool Calculator

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    patdelacruz's Avatar
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    Re: Algae and my new plaster

    Thanks for the quick replies! I take my sample to the pool builder which is about a mile away so time is not a problem. And I had thought that letting the FC go down once a month was my only option so you've confirmed my thoughts. But am I really going to get staining of my new plaster at FC 5-7 or is this something they tell you to get you to buy lots of products? I will put my info on my signature on future posts, I need to get some more info. first.

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    Re: Algae and my new plaster

    In my opinion your target of 5-7 sounds good. But, in this case you are bound to what the pool company thinks is right.

    If you let your sample sit out for a while, FC will go down.

    The addition of phosphates will not cause an algae bloom if FC is sufficiently high to inhibit growth. If your FC is 5+, phosphates aren't going to do a thing.
    Built in 1957 44,000 gallon in-ground, Wet Edge Primera Stone in Sky Blue, Intelliflo VF Pump, 600 lb. Pentair Triton II TR-100 Sand Filter, CircuPool RG 60 Plus SWG, TF-100 test kit
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    Mod Squad JVTrain's Avatar
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    Re: Algae and my new plaster

    I'm no plaster expert by any means but I would say having an FC of 3-5 (the proper levels) would actually prevent staining. The root of this problem is pool companies having no clue or not admitting to the true relationship between CYA and chlorine. I can understand them wanting you to keep a certain pH, TA, CH, Salt and even a CYA as those all will affect the CSI level which determines whether your pool water is corrosive or scaling to plaster.
    Joel - TFP Moderator - Minnesota - **Become a TFP Supporter!** Helpful Links: ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry - SLAM Procedure - Chlorine/CYA Chart
    40x20 Pool: 32K Gallons * Vinyl * Bleach Chlorination * Hayward S270T Sand Filter * Pentair SuperFlo 1 HP * Teledyne/Laars Heater * AquaVac Tigershark * TF-100 w/ SpeedStir
    Isolated Spa - 345 Gallons

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    patdelacruz's Avatar
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    Re: Algae and my new plaster

    Thanks all, I will keep my FC where I know I won't get algae. Over the years I've figured out that to avoid algae I need the higher FC and the help of my local family owned hardware store/pool service who come by while I'm away. Both of my algae blooms happened when the pumped failed and I was out of town. They aren't the cheapest source for pool chemicals, but the service and advice (BBB enthusiasts) are priceless.
    Just added my avatar and signature, and while getting all the info together I remembered another question I had but I think it belongs in a SWG thread so I'll put it there so as to avoid confusion.
    1998 19x38 22k gal oval w/ spa and spillover, Sunstone Golden Pearl plaster, 1 HP Ao pump, Hayward sand filter, Goldline T cell 15 Turbo cell, Polaris Booster pump, Polaris 340 cleaner, Jandy 400,000 BTU propane heater, iAqual link control panel, 6 solar panels, TF-100 test kit

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    Re: Algae and my new plaster

    Yeah, SWG + pump failure = 0 FC.
    Built in 1957 44,000 gallon in-ground, Wet Edge Primera Stone in Sky Blue, Intelliflo VF Pump, 600 lb. Pentair Triton II TR-100 Sand Filter, CircuPool RG 60 Plus SWG, TF-100 test kit
    If TFP has helped you, please click to SUPPORT TFP!

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