grey spots- diamond brite

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builder_bob504

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Jun 8, 2009
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this pool was replastered March 2008 with Diamond Brite super blue batch tx121707507 by an authorized applicator. last year I started seeing grey spots on the shallow end floor. the spot sizes vary but are typically approximately 2 inches in diameter. they disappear/reappear daily not in relation to any time of day, sunlight or water temperature and are not stationary (different location and number when they reappear.) last year I had emailed these photos to SGM tech support in Florida who had no suggestion or thought to resolve.

this year the spots are increasing in number and also starting to appear in the deep end. I understand SGM had warranty issues with other Diamond Brite pools in this area (Louisiana) but there doesn't seem to be any information that could relate to my situation,

I had the applicator inspect and he suggested acid wash without any explanation as to cause.

I tested for metals using Hach test strips. no metals. plumbing is all plastic, no heater.

chemistry:

TH 250
TC 4
FC 7
ph 7.2
TA 80
CYA 50

municipal water. this area has quite a few chemical plants. with that in mind, I'm thinking about dumping water and refilling.

any ideas or suggestions?
 

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Welcome to TFP!
Those looks like spots form organic matter sitting on the bottom, like a leaf or an acorn. If you have a chlorine puck around, try diving down and scrubbing one of them with it for a little bit. If it is an organic stain, just upping the chlorine level in the pool will make them fade. Whatever it is, chemical plants have nothing to do with it.

We also recommend that everyone gets their own test kit and does their own testing, because pool store testing is often nonsense...e.g. your FC cannot possibly be higher than TC.
 
I'm using Hach Aquachek 7 strips and a Taylor TF-100. My eyesight isn't that sharp with the colors but the Hach color range for TC and FC are both 5-10, which Hach says is ideal. They might be 5 & 5 but without better eyes, I can't be sure. The Taylor drop test came back 6 ppm free chlorine. CC was 8? I added bleach night before I did these retests.

Did the puck thing last year with no change. There's nothing plant wise by the pool other than airborne pollen. Closest tree is downhill about 300 ft away.

appreciate the response--
 
appreciate the response but no fertilizer or other lawn chemicals.

in my first post I had mentioned of other 2008 Diamond Brite customers this area with similar problem. I am hoping someone on this board had information what had occurred. the spots come and go, and aren't in the same location. don't know if there is something in the water or in the finish that's reacting with water? thanks again
 
builder_bob504 said:
appreciate the response but no fertilizer or other lawn chemicals.

in my first post I had mentioned of other 2008 Diamond Brite customers this area with similar problem. I am hoping someone on this board had information what had occurred. the spots come and go, and aren't in the same location. don't know if there is something in the water or in the finish that's reacting with water? thanks again
Click to expand...

Interesting.....this sounds like organic stains.

The Taylor drop test came back 6 ppm free chlorine. CC was 8? I added bleach night before I did these retests.
Click to expand...

Please retest with the TF100 and post results. Your CC test is especially curious.
 
brush weekly, day before vacuuming. OCLT tests last year. no overnight FC level change.

(quote)
poodlegirl

10-31-2009, 03:18 PM

I have had your exact problem with Diamond Brite. From what I've been told, the streaks are fairly common. The black spots are not. I had the same problems with the black spots. A Diamond Brite representative came to my house and told me they will honor the warranty. The only problem is that they supply the product but the contractor has supply the free labor. My contractor has been great and has agreed to do this. I would contact SGM myself in your situation. You can google SGM (that's who makes the product) and it will come up. The SGM stands for Southern Grout & Mortar. Call them and ask to leave a message for technical support. The guy I dealt with is out of Dallas. I live in south Louisiana. The guy from SGM I dealt with is very nice. It just depends on where you live as to what representative you deal with. I had the Marlin Blue color and had my pool refinished in June of 2008. (unquote)
 

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applicator did OCLT December last year. I had tried to contact poodlegirl but was unsuccessful. I can't be sure if the spots are moving when the reappear or not but either way, I would question whether they are organic. I had tried a number of different tactics on the spots such as brushing which had no discernable impact on their appearance. another question would be organic source. pool is next to house and part of a cement patio system. no trees or bushes nearby, just grass (grass is bagged during mowing.)
 
spots started earlier last year. in late December the applicator ck'd pool and among other things did OCLT, which at that time was negative for organics. do I understand you think cause of symptoms (spots) changed from December to date? everything else has been pretty much constant (chemistry, weekly testing, run filter year round, brushing/debris daily etc. does OCLT needs repeating?
 
What type of brush are you using?

Has your CYA been allowed to get higher than 50?

Has your FC stayed close to 4 or maybe even dropped below?

Have you rubbed a trichlor tab on a stain/spot to test if t is organic?
 
You need another brush for the plaster that is over a year old:
Brush recommendations:

Nylon is for vinyl, fiberglass, tile, and plaster that is less than one year. (Plaster includes any exposed aggregate and marcite finish, btw!) Combo brushes are for older plaster. All stainless are for algae (very stubborn green algae and also the ONLY brush for black algae.)

You CAN unscrew the Wall Whale from the nylon brush it comes with and screw it on a combo brush if your plaster is over a year old. Newer plaster is really too soft for anyting other than a nylon brush.
Click to expand...

Running the FC at the minimum and sometimes allowing it to dip below minimum can create conditions that allow black algae to get a foothold. Not saying for sure that you have BA, just another piece of info.
I suggest you try running the FC at the high end of your FC/CYA level, iow, 8 FC.

Try to scratch some of the stain/spot of with your fingernail/knife and smear it on white paper. If it is green, it is algae. To help confirm:

I suggest you place a trichlor tab on a stain and let it sit for a couple minutes to see if it lightens. If no joy, try the same thing with a cheap vitamin C tablet.

Tests that were done last year don't count! :smile:
 
have already tried vitamin C and trichlor with no change.

stain cannot be disturbed by scratching- it appears to be imbedded.

will try higher FC and stainless brush- not optimistic.

appreciate your attempts to help
 

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