How often to adjust pH?
- Thread starter Mindflux
- Start date
If it wants to sit at 7.8 that's not a problem. Leave it there. No reason to fight it.
My PH tends to like to be at 7.9. I have a fountain and a waterfall so that helps raise it. I have found if I try to reduce it to 7.8 or lower, it takes a lot of MA. However, if I only adjust it when it gets to 8.0, I have to use very little.
I test and adjust as needed once per week.
I test and adjust as needed once per week.
Mine seems to creep into the 8s. It's hard to tell on that OTO chart for me though.
I understand the color changes can be tough to estimate. The numbers are recommendations not be all end all, if your pool likes to be at 7.8, and you aren't having issues with scaling, water quality looks good, no issues, then why not run it at 7.8.
It's important to know why you're running at 7.8 (the high end of the scale). If you let it run to 8.0 and knock it down with 7.8 and you're not having scaling or any other water quality issues then I say go for it.
It's important to know why you're running at 7.8 (the high end of the scale). If you let it run to 8.0 and knock it down with 7.8 and you're not having scaling or any other water quality issues then I say go for it.
Reassuring to hear the views here about leaving it at the high end. My intuition would agree, since the pool seems absolutely great as it is, no problems at all. It'll certainly help on the usage of MA to not fight it back down to 7.5 all the time.
I have your problem as well. But I still knock my pH down to 7.5 or so every week to 10 days with a quart of acid. My pH will slowly rise to around 8.0-8.2 before I bring it back down. I try to keep my CSI around zero to slightly negative. When it gets around +.1 I will add acid.
I don't want to get scaling so I haven't tried to see if my pH will stay at 8.0-8.2 (which leaves me with a CSI around +.2). MA is about the only thing I need to add to my pool.
My tile around the edge of the pool and the rock wall on one side of my pool is all scaled up. I'd love to get rid of the 'water line' which also means I need to keep my PH in check to avoid more scaling.
Can you post a full set of test numbers? There may be some advanced discussion issues that may be able to address the scaling issues.
What's the TA and CH levels? What about your fill water?
What's the TA and CH levels? What about your fill water?
I posted some preliminary numbers a page back. My CYA is up to 60 (from 30) and PH was down in the 7.5-7.8 range until yesterday. It tested above 8 even after adding 16 oz of MA (8oz in the morning and 8 at night) though. I know my TA is high, so I gotta get that down too.
It seems like I'm adjusting every two days to get the pH back under 8. I think the spa overflow and spa jets causing so much aeration are the cause. But what can I do?
Adjust the automation so the spa only runs 1/2 hour a day instead of all day long. That should exchange enough water so the spa stays chlorinated.
The spa doesn't have it's own pump, it's on the pool pump. So pool pump runs, spa runs. How would I get around that?
Shut the valve off that returns the water to the spa. There are valves that return the water to the pool and the spa and valves that control the suction from the pool and the spa.
This is automated though. I don't know if I can have to automation adjust the valve part way through a program?
I talked to a pool guy I know and he says part of pH "creep" is caused by SWG. Any truth to that?
Yes, SWG's can cause the pH to rise but using our guidelines it can be limited or eliminated all together.
You need to figure out how to program the valves to operate the pool the way you want to control it. The way it is now with the water returning to the spa you will always have fast pH rise.
You need to figure out how to program the valves to operate the pool the way you want to control it. The way it is now with the water returning to the spa you will always have fast pH rise.
Well the spa needs some return so it keeps chlorine up. It also doesn't help that the jets seem to aerate non stop as well when the pumps are on for sure. I just don't know how to get the spa off since the actuator is probably programmed to keep the spa open on the return side? It seems like all the actuators can do is move positions based on when you start a mode?...
I don't know how to change the automation programming other than start/stop times.. not what actuators it does what with.
I have the same problem with the rising PH. I have to add about a gallon per week to keep the PH at around 7.7. Does anyone know how or can you add an IV style drip to the suction line so it will keep the PH at a constant level. I was thinking that you could use a container of acid with a small hose with a needle valve connected to the suction side of the pump. You could adjust the needle valve to get the correct flow.
Don't forget that the rate of pH rise from carbon dioxide outgassing is faster at higher TA and lower pH. So if your TA is higher, you want to lower it and then you can set a higher pH target assuming you don't have the risk of metal staining. This chart shows how much pool water is over-carbonated with respect to air. The color coding is a bit arbitrary since with higher aeration the rate of pH rise is higher.
I'm just chasing PH every couple days now. I can't even get my TA down because I can't bring my PH down far enough, long enough to do anything to my TA.
Also I think I'm getting metals staining (yellow streaks on the pool sides) that isn't brushing off as if it were pollen or mustard algae.
Also I think I'm getting metals staining (yellow streaks on the pool sides) that isn't brushing off as if it were pollen or mustard algae.