When to use Polyquat after Slam

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Tom Tank

Tom Tank

0
Aug 4, 2014
31
Fuquay Varina, NC
Finished my SLAM and now have a question about Polyquat. My FC levels are really high due SLAM, can I put in Polyquat 60 now or should I wait until FC levels drop? I am going to use polyquat as insurance but read on some of the forums that it can break down faster when FC is high. Can someone please advise?
 
There's no need to use any algaecide after a SLAM. Just focus on maintaining the proper FC level according to your pool's CYA and that will prevent future algae outbreaks. Click on the Chlorine/CYA Chart link in my sig to determine the FC target for your CYA.
 
Thanks, but this is my second time doing a SLAM in two weeks. The first time, it passed all of the tests and I maintained the FC to the appropriate FC/CYA level. However, algae still came back. I don't want to keep dumping a ton of chlorine in the pool (my CYA =70) and read that polyquat is a good insurance backup. I test religiously with the TF100, I know my levels, but still had algae return. Just want to know if polyquat will be as effective at the higher FC level or should i wait until the FC levels drop down.
 
It doesn't say in your post what any of your test results have been. Maybe that would help us come up with additional ways to help. If you want to use polyquat, but are concerned with the high FC levels messing with it, just let your FC drift down to the level it needs to be for your CYA.
 
Thanks tim5055. We missed some really good swimming days the past two weeks. I have followed everything that I could on this site, but still fear that algae will come back. Here are my latest readings: FC=27 / CYA = 70. FC is too high to get a good reading on the ph, but before the SLAM, my ph read 7.2 which I thought was fine to begin the SLAM. I am going to wait until the FC drops to at least 15 or lower before putting in the polyquat.
 
The Algae Back thread describes the problem which doesn't make much sense unless it was yellow/mustard algae or circulation was poor on the bottom of the pool or it's something other than algae (like pollen). Yellow/mustard algae might look green against a blue vinyl background. Point at least one return downwards or diagonally downwards and see if that makes a difference.

Anyway, if you want to add Polyquat 60, do so after the chlorine level has dropped from SLAM levels. If you add it with high chlorine levels, then the chlorine will just oxidize the Polyquat faster. Though that doesn't make it completely ineffective (it mostly breaks up the polymer into smaller pieces), it would be better to wait until the chlorine level is lower.

If the "algae" doesn't go away with the Polyquat, then you might put in a skimmer sock and see if you are getting pollen in the pool. The fact that this is spread out all around the bottom of the pool is suspicious. That makes it less likely to be yellow/mustard algae as that prefers to grow on the shady side of the pool.
 
Thank you. This is my first year ever owning a pool, so I apologize for the questions. If the "algae" I am seeing is indeed pollen, would it make the water turn green too? When I brushed the pool the day I found the algae, it brushed off rather easily and created a cloud after the brush stopped. My pool is around some tall crepe myrtles and it often will shed into the pool. My phosphate count was >1000 based on the pool store testing about three weeks ago (before I officially converted to TFP). My water is clear now and it has passed the OCLT last night. One odd thing today is that the FC dropped about 4ppm and no one used the pool at all. It is in the sun from about 10am - 5pm, but I was surprised that it dropped that much. Is that normal?
 
Tom Tank said:
Thank you. This is my first year ever owning a pool, so I apologize for the questions. If the "algae" I am seeing is indeed pollen, would it make the water turn green too? When I brushed the pool the day I found the algae, it brushed off rather easily and created a cloud after the brush stopped. My pool is around some tall crepe myrtles and it often will shed into the pool. My phosphate count was >1000 based on the pool store testing about three weeks ago (before I officially converted to TFP). My water is clear now and it has passed the OCLT last night. One odd thing today is that the FC dropped about 4ppm and no one used the pool at all. It is in the sun from about 10am - 5pm, but I was surprised that it dropped that much. Is that normal?
Click to expand...
No need to apologize for questions. We were all there once and stick around to answer questions.

With your CYA that much above your target, i.e. up near shock level you will loose a little more to the sun than if you were down in your target range. But, with that being said 4ppm really isn't unexpected in our sized pools with a good day of sun
 
Have you tried adding borates to your water as another form if insurance? Borates can help kill algae.

Also, and I know this is somewhat verboten here in TFP, you could try using phosphate reducers. I have been in several threads about their use. While I don't condone their regular use as the pool stores push them to be used, the chemistry behind them is sound.

I do believe ChemGeek has used them previously and has some anecdotal evidence of their use making his pool less susceptible to certain algae. I have never used them and would only so so very cautiously as they can have the potential to screw up your filter if misused.


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I have not tried adding borates, but thinking of doing that at the start of next season. I have avoided phosphate removers because of reading through these forums, but will probably use it if algae returns. Right now, pool is clear, FC is dropping after the SLAM. I am going to add polyquat 60 once the FC drops a little lower - probably tomorrow morning.
@PAGirl- algae was located in several spots, but not widespread. I run my pump 8 hours during the day.
 
Your thread centers around the use of polyquat, borates, phosphate remover because using chlorine alone in your pool doesn't work.

Thousands of people on this forum use chlorine only and keep their pools pristine....me included. I wouldn't be quite so quick to abandon the principles of FC levels and maintaining them religiously.

All the additives you are talking about imply you don't have basic faith in chlorine's ability to keep your pool clear. I can promise you it can and will if you continue to learn and review your procedures.
 
I know you stated that this is your second SLAM and that you do know and practice TFPC method. I also read through your previous thread and it looks like you did a lot of thorough cleaning.

From my own experience SLAMing, what did the trick for me was making sure my stone waterfall was running during the SLAM. The one place I saw algae was in one of the little basins in the waterfall. So now I have my waterfall pumps set to run several times per day to make sure that the plumbing for it sees regular chlorine levels. Same is true for my attached spa. I try to run it (no heat) every other day or so to make sure that the pipes see a good dose of chlorine. The spa has a spillway in it into the pool and so the bulk of the spa water gets turned over with the normal daily pump run but I run the spa just to make sure I clear out any stagnant water in the jet pipes and drain pipes.

Since you have water features as well, you might consider running them on a regular daily schedule to ensure they see good chlorination.

You might also consider deep cleaning your sand filter (at end of season) to ensure the internal components are all clean.



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@ Sunny Good thought on checking the waterfall. We typically don't run it very often because it raises the ph too high. I will double check it now. @duraleigh: not losing faith in TFPC method and just chlorine. I wanted extra insurance for the algae and thought polyquat would work. The borate and phosphate discussions were just me thinking the what ifs. I am sticking with using chlorine and will use polyquat as insurance for now. I do have trust in the TFPC method.
 
Yup. It's a balancing act with water features. Run them and you have a higher acid demand due to aeration. Don't run them, and your likely to have stagnant water get into your pool.

I run my spillway the entire time the pool pump is on (I don't have it automated) because the the returns for the pool and the spa are on the same manual three-way valve (hmmm a future upgrade for me...). So I split the return water to about 60% spillway/40% pool returns. I also run my waterfall three times per day for a total of two hours of run time. Suffice it to say my pool water sees a lot of aeration and gets a lot of acid additions per week.

But everything is clean, clear & sparkly so I guess that's just the price i pay....


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One other thing to mention is that I see by your signature that you are a manual chlorinator. I know many people on this forum do successfully pull off sparkly pools while being "jug dumpers". However, I would really urge you to consider adding either a Stenner pump to your setup OR go for SWCG.

Manual chlorination works just fine but there's always that chance that life gets you too busy and then you skip an addition or your late doing it. Next thing you know, you've dipped below minimum FC. I love the fact that even when my life gets hectic, my SWG is just plugging away on its own.

Just a thought....


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