Why not use the Taylor 9056 to test for Chlorine over 5ppm?

[FlyAU98]

My CYA level leads me to having a target Chlorine level over 5...which exceeds the top measurement on the K-1000 included in my TF-100 test kit.

I was looking around on a pool store's web site and came across the Taylor 9056 test block that seems to go to 10ppm chlorine.

Is there any reason this isn't a favored test around here? The drop test is a bit much to use every day, this seems like it would be a real simple daily test solution for those of us with higher CYA levels...

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https://www.taylortechnologies.com/corporate_news.asp
A Chlorine and Bromine Heart Transplant for 2000 Series Test Kits

Pool and spa chemical levels can no longer hide behind the need for dilution with Taylor Technologies’ new comparator block

Pool and spa professionals have expressed their high-level chlorine and bromine testing woes and Taylor Technologies has answered with a new, more comprehensive comparator block. Available now, the newly revised 2000 Series™ comparator block, dubbed by Taylor's chemists as the "heart of any test kit," ensures that within the world of pool and spa water balance, the beat will go on.

"We're finding that people are choosing to maintain higher chlorine and bromine levels," says Alex Wooden, Vice President of Strategic Development at Taylor Technologies, Inc. "Pool and spa owners, operators, and service professionals often need to dilute samples to get accurate readings, and whenever extra steps are involved, human error plays a role. Our newest comparator block addresses this problem."

The comparator block's .5 and 1.5 ppm chlorine standards have been replaced with the new color standards 1, 2, 3, 5, 7.5, and 10 ppm. Likewise, bromine readings 1, 3, and 5 ppm have been eliminated, making room for the 2, 4, 6, 10, 15, and 20 ppm standards. Testing up to 10 ppm chlorine and 20 ppm bromine can now be accomplished simply, without dilution and recalculation.

Taylor Technologies' current comparator block is designed for collecting water samples, mixing reagents, and matching colors to measure free and total chlorine, bromine, total alkalinity, calcium hardness, and cyanuric acid. Features include a flange for enhanced visibility of the cyanuric acid test scale, a large tube that accommodates the optional SampleSizer™, raised water volume fill marks, a frosted backing for uniform color perception, and a dilution guide to assist in reading high chemical concentrations above 10 ppm Cl or 20 ppm Br. The new 2014 comparator block design retains those features, while making the reading of high concentrations simpler and practically eliminating the need for the dilution guide.

The new #9056 comparator replaces the comparator block in the following 2000 Series™ kits:
K-2000, K-2000S, K-2005, K-2005S, K-2005C,
K-2005CS, K-2007, and K-2015.

 

[JohnT]

10ppm isn't nearly high enough to use when you need to shock the pool, so it can't replace the FAS-DPD. If you need to test more than 5ppm chlorine regularly, the DPD is a good option. It requires two reagents, so it's not quite as simple as the OTO.

 

[Billrector]

Good question. I also have relatively high CYA and the 5ppm limit in the TF-100 makes it worthless to me.

 

[Richard320]

For daily quick checks, there is no reason you can't.

But that is a DPD test, and it can bleach out at really high FC levels which would make it read falsely low. The OTO test that comes with the TF100 gets darker and darker as FC levels increase. It doesn't bleach out. The FAS-DPD test will read up to 50 FC, which is needed if FC levels need to be way up there for shock level.

Realistically, the only reason you need FC that high is if CYA levels are way high, and most people who are in that boat are only in it for the first season.

 

[FlyAU98]

Realistically, the only reason you need FC that high is if CYA levels are way high, and most people who are in that boat are only in it for the first season.

My CYA is in the 50-60 range...which means I should have a Target Chlorine range of 6-7ppm, beyond the limits of the K-1000, other than me just knowing it needs to be dark yellow.

Are you predicting that following the BBB method will give me lower and lower CYA levels in the next year, or that I'll just do the water replacement to get it down?

I'm in sunny South Florida, so year round pool with year round sun...would I be better off with a lower CYA level?

I'm happily going down the TroubleFree road, I got rid of the pool man this past week and on my own... I just want to make sure I have the right level of Chlorine in the pool and this seemed like an easier daily tester to give an accurate reading at the suggested levels for my pool. It wouldn't be used for SLAM measurements, just daily measurements. I haven't found any instructions for it, so I didn't know about the two reagents required.

It just seemed to me that a fair number of pools covered on here require a daily Chlorine level above 5ppm, yet the recommended kit tops off at 5ppm...I was just wondering if I was missing something in my search on it.

 

[duraleigh]

Good question. I also have relatively high CYA and the 5ppm limit in the TF-100 makes it worthless to me.

Not at all. Post your CYA and FC and I'll give you an example of how handy it can be.

 

[timerguy]

Good question. I also have relatively high CYA and the 5ppm limit in the TF-100 makes it worthless to me.

The TF-100 also has a FAS- DPd capability in addition to the OTO which you're talking about.

 

[FlyAU98]

The TF-100 also has a FAS- DPd capability in addition to the OTO which you're talking about.

True, but that one is a bit of work (and reagents) for daily testing...

Here are my numbers from yesterday:

Chlorine (FC) 7
Combined Chloramines (CC) 0
pH Test 7.9 (added some Acid, pH is down around 7.7, forgot to record it)
Total Alkalinity 70
Calcium Hardness 225 (up to 250 after adding some Calcium, added a little more today)
Cyanuric Acid 58

 

[timerguy]

But , it DOES work for what you will need it to, the others won't. Buy the XL option or you can get the r-0871 reagent in up to 16 oz bottles. I use mine for daily testing as it's much more accurate.

 

[Richard320]

My CYA is in the 50-60 range...which means I should have a Target Chlorine range of 6-7ppm, beyond the limits of the K-1000, other than me just knowing it needs to be dark yellow.

Are you predicting that following the BBB method will give me lower and lower CYA levels in the next year, or that I'll just do the water replacement to get it down?

Once you really get an understanding of the chemistry and stop the pucks and weekly shock pool store regimen, your CYA will lower through splashout and rain and you won;t be eager to raise it up again.

Given enough time, you'll know your pool well, well enough that you can call your test results with amazing accuracy before you've even grabbed the sample. There's a fairly steep learning curve, and you're still on the upslope and getting impatient. Too many people want to know exact answers and nobody can say since every pool is different and you just have to learn by doing. It's sort of like what parents tell their kids: "You'll understand when you're older."