Finally got kit in the mail, here are my numbers

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bkp13

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Apr 18, 2014
23
Fresno, CA
FC 6
CC 0.5
pH 7.1
TA 70
CH 110
CYA 120

Not sure where to begin. I did understand from reading different things here that you don't want to dump every corrective thing in at the same time. So how would you tackle this and in what order?

There isn't any more algae, water looks fine again. But the numbers are definitely wonky. We've been putting liquid bleach in the last couple weeks or so, but soon we'll be out of town for a few days and needing to use the dreaded tablets.

Thanks.
 
Well, your CYA is over twice what it should be. Are you estimating that number over 100 or did you do a diluted test?

Can you dump more than half your water to get that in line? If so, that is the first thing to do.
 
Thanks, Tim.

First test showed >100, so then I did a 50-50 dilution with tap water and got 60 and doubled.

We are in a severe drought and not sure we can get a permit for dumping all that water -- I'll have to look into it. I'm wondering: if the kids do a lot of splashing, and we gradually replace, if could we do something in the meantime short of draining the pool?

EDITED TO ADD: County website says that if it's been less than three years since you drained the pool (and it is, because we had it refinished with fiberglass), you need "supporting documentation" - hm! I don't know what that might be, but I'll have to call during business hours. If we simply drain the pool and someone notices, it's a $500 ticket. No thanks!
 
Do you have current issues that need correction? Algae/ cloudy water?

If not you can manage high CYA but you have to stay on top of it. If you ever have to SLAM it will be a bear getting the pool to shock level with a 120 CYA. I started over 200 and I'm at 70 now. Due to a high water table I couldn't do the hard drain I needed to, but have been aggressive in backwashing and I did drain down a foot several times.
 
bkp13 said:
FC 6
CC 0.5
pH 7.1
TA 70
CH 110
CYA 120

Not sure where to begin. I did understand from reading different things here that you don't want to dump every corrective thing in at the same time. So how would you tackle this and in what order?

There isn't any more algae, water looks fine again. But the numbers are definitely wonky. We've been putting liquid bleach in the last couple weeks or so, but soon we'll be out of town for a few days and needing to use the dreaded tablets.

Thanks.
Click to expand...
For just a few days I would never use pucks. I would raise the FC way up, even to shock level and let it drift down while I was gone.

With CYA 120 your target Fc is 14 and you should never let it get below 9, which it is right now by the way. Shock level for you is 47.

Your other recommended numbers for a plaster pool with no SWG are:
with Bleach
pH 7.5-7.8
TA 70-90+
CH 250-350

I would start aerating to get the pH up and add CH up (available at Walmart) to get the CH in range.
 
You may be able to drain a foot per month and no one would notice. Dont get too greedy or the water bill would tell on you. We always get a notice that we have a leak when we fill up the pool. Not a leak of course but they want you to know about the unusual water usage. Just keep your FC level where its supposed to be and NEVER let it go below minimum.

Adjust your FC and aerate to raise pH. Then raise your CH. Simple as that. You could use Calcium Hypochlorite to shock with to raise the CH or just use Calcium Chloride.

With a CYA that high, you could probably raise the FC to shock level and cover the pool and you should be fine depending on how long you will be gone. That way you wont have to use the trichlor tablets. They do make calcium hypoclorite tablets but I couldnt tell you how long they take to wither away. I assume its not long.
 
Yup, calcium hypo will get your CH and chlorine up. I use granulated. I'd use that until you CH level is in range, then switch to bleach. Avoid anything with CYA (tri-chlor). Pool math will tell you how much to add to get to your target.

Over time your CYA will drop as you backwash the filter and refill with tap water as long as you stop the pucks.
 
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