Hello You awesome Pool School Guys! You have helped me so much already just trying to get my pool to function (I THINK I figured out the spa leak, the drain backup issue, and a few other issues still in progress). Now I am finally ready to get the water in shape so we can actually swim and enjoy the pool! By reading here, I think I have a good test kit, but it was left by previous home owner so I have no idea how old the kit is. I took my water to local store and had them test and then have been trying to use my kit and see if I can get the same results, but no luck! Not sure if its the kit, or if its the fact that my CYA levels are so high that I need larger amounts of FC per your chart... IF I am reading the chart correctly?? So here is what I got if you can please let me know if I am doing this right! FYI: Unfortunately, I used a bunch of products before I found your website to get the pool chemicals to where they are now. I can't undo that, but I have definitely learned my lesson and won't take any advice from anyone buy you guys here from now on! At the beginning of June I added 15 gallons of chlorine (still only got a .2 FC reading), 1 quart of phosphate remover (my phosphate level was 2000+), 2 quarts of algeacide (my pool was a thick green, murky, mosquito pond when we moved in).
Per my local pool store my readings are:
Local Pool Store Chart
………… My Results Min Max
Total Chlorine 2.8 1.0 3.0
Free Chlorine 2.8 1.0 3.0
pH…………………. 7.8 7.2 7.6
Totol Alkalinity 130 100 120
Calcium Hardness 400 200 400
Stabilizer (CYA) 105 30 100
If I try to use my Taylor Deluxe DPD Test Kit
I can barely get a pink color. Looks like there is less than the .5 based on the color indicator.
If I am reading the Pool School CYA chart correctly... CYA level of 30 means 2-4 FC range is optimal. Since my CYA level is 105 my FC range should be 7-12 so I need to slam and add a lot more chlorine, right??
So I am trying to figure out of my test kit should be replaced. If I should be between 7-12 because of the high CYA levels, then maybe my kit is correct and I will get the right color reading after I slam to bring the FC level up to match the CYA???
1 more question. Taylor Chart and Pool school say based on CYA level of 30 that FC range should be between 2-4, but my local stores all say 1-3. Is this different just based on our region? You guys are nationwide so you have to appeal to a larger demographic, should I use my local store recommendations because they know my climate? Or ignore them and stick with your chart? You have been right about everything else! So I am good with following your advice and chart!!
Per my local pool store my readings are:
Local Pool Store Chart
………… My Results Min Max
Total Chlorine 2.8 1.0 3.0
Free Chlorine 2.8 1.0 3.0
pH…………………. 7.8 7.2 7.6
Totol Alkalinity 130 100 120
Calcium Hardness 400 200 400
Stabilizer (CYA) 105 30 100
If I try to use my Taylor Deluxe DPD Test Kit
I can barely get a pink color. Looks like there is less than the .5 based on the color indicator.
If I am reading the Pool School CYA chart correctly... CYA level of 30 means 2-4 FC range is optimal. Since my CYA level is 105 my FC range should be 7-12 so I need to slam and add a lot more chlorine, right??
So I am trying to figure out of my test kit should be replaced. If I should be between 7-12 because of the high CYA levels, then maybe my kit is correct and I will get the right color reading after I slam to bring the FC level up to match the CYA???
1 more question. Taylor Chart and Pool school say based on CYA level of 30 that FC range should be between 2-4, but my local stores all say 1-3. Is this different just based on our region? You guys are nationwide so you have to appeal to a larger demographic, should I use my local store recommendations because they know my climate? Or ignore them and stick with your chart? You have been right about everything else! So I am good with following your advice and chart!!