Green water please help

[Kiddy]

Hello, I don't see a signature line so here is all my information. I have an Intex ultra frame 22x52 (box states 10400ish gallons, figuring with math I get 11400 gallons). the pool is in full sun from sunrise until sunset. I am using the chlorine cartridge filter that came in the box it states 2600ish gph flow rate. I have a walmart 6 way test kit and also have my water tested at local pool store about once a week. I have kept chlorine in my pool at all times and have never let it go below 2ppm. I have had crystal clear water until about two wks ago when I tried to vacuum the pool with my vacuum attached to the filter to get the pollen off the floor of my pool that had settled there. The pollen this year has been really bad around here. The vacuum that comes with these pools stinks to say the least. So with the help of my home builder he gave me an idea of how to make a connection so that I could use a "real" hose and vacuum attached to the filter. It worked but the problem I had after trying to vacuum was it blew the "fluff" pollen right through the filter and back into the pool making it a very cloudy green color.

Here are the testing records I have kept.

Date TC PH TA FC CC CH CYA
08 / 04 3.0 7.5 120 (pm test)
08 / 04 added 8oz dry acid – 32oz chlorine – 1.5oz filter fiber – 6oz clarifier
08 / 04 2.0 7.5 120 (am test)
08 / 02 added 8oz dry acid – 8oz clarifier – 3oz filter fiber
08 / 02 3.2 7.8 160 3.2 0.0 170 30 Pool Store test
07 / 31 2.0 7.5 still green – shocked added 100+ oz
07 / 30 3.0 7.5 120 added 9oz of blue clarifier from pool store
07 / 29 5.0 7.5 still green
07 / 27 5.0 7.5 still green
07 / 26 5.0 7.3 130
07 / 25 added 6oz of dry acid
07 / 25 5+ 7.6 140 still running filter 24/7 - getting better very slowly
07 / 23 added 15oz of stabilizer
07 / 23 added 10oz of dry acid
07 / 23 9.4 7.8 150 9.4 0.0 160 15 Pool Store test
07 / 22 3.0 7.4 120 added 32oz hth super shock
07 / 21 3.0
07 / 20 added 1# of CYA to pool
07 / 19 Saturday - started running filter 24hrs a day trying to clear up pollen vacuuming just blew it around in the pool.
added 1# CYA
07 / 18 4.7 7.7 160 4.7 0.0 170 10 Pool Store test
07 / 16 2.0 7.2 lots of rain past wk – tried to vacuum pollen in pool - cloudy
07 / 15 2.0 7.2 120
07 / 09 3.0
07 / 08 3.0 7.2 120 160

I know this is ending up as a long starting post but I thought you would like to see the records I have been keeping and where my water tests are at and they have been. I have no CC in my pool. and according to my test results my water should be clear. the guy at the pool store Saturday couldn't believe my water was green.

And I also have no copper or iron in my water, those results show zero for both.

I have been running the filter 24/7 for almost 2 wks now and it's like it's just going through the filter or most of it, I also am cleaning the cartridge 2 times a day.

???????? any thoughts on what I might try. I am now trying jacks magic filter fiber and using a natural clairifier trying to bind the small particals together hoping my filter will pick more of them up and eventually clear the water up.

and my pool temp range is from 74 during day and maybe 70 at night.

Any ideas??? Thanks for the help. Kiddy.

 

[karmabiker]

Kiddy - Welcome to TFP.

Take a look at the ABCs ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry and Pool School.

A good test kit is going to be critical to your success. There is an article in Pool School on recommended Test Kits or you can use the link to the TF-100 in my signature line.

Once you have a good set of test results we will be able to assist, given your record keeping I think you will really enjoy the experience with a "real" test kit.

 

[achianese]

You probably have an algae bloom, not just pollen floating, but a picture would be nice to see. Agreed that step one is to read up at Pool School, get a reliable test kit, and begin to doubt the results from strips and the pool store. Step 2 will likely be a SLAM with bleach or liquid chlorine.

See here: http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/124-pool-test-kits-comparison

The key to your current issue may be in the accuracy of the CYA measurement. If it's really 30, a minimum FC of 2 may not be a problem, but CYA could be higher which could mean you need more chlorine to keep algae from growing. I'm wondering what source(s)s of chlorine you are currently using. If you are using trichlor tablets regularly, you likely have more CYA in your pool than you think.

If you buy in and fully adopt the TFPC method, you'll end up with a sparkling pool and save a lot of money, because many of the expensive chemicals you have been adding (floc, clarifier, solid acid) are unnecessary.

 

[RobbieH]

Other than the HTH Super Shock (CalHypo) can you post what other products you have added?

 

[tim5055]

Agreed, I'm going top guess that you have more CYA than you think, thus making the chlorine you are keeping in the pool ineffective as it is bound to the CYA. Confusing? The suggestion to read up in the pool school was a good one and will help you take control of your pool.

If you have read around here much you have probably seen that not much credence is given to pool store testing. While you would think that a "professional" would be the best, unfortunately in most cases it is quite the opposite. Between employees who blindly trust the word of chemical sales representatives and high school kids working in the pool store for the summer you end up with poor results from their testing.

To follow the pool care methods taught here you need to arm yourself with the knowledge and tools necessary to care for your pool.

The knowledge is condensed in the Pool School link that we all have spoken about. It is a great community here, but we do ask that you read and try to understand the information being taught. We want you to take control of your pool, not blindly follow someone at the pool store or even someone here. Questions are always welcome and folks will try to direct you and teach you the methods.

The tools are not limited to the brushes, vacuum hoses and other stuff you use around the pool, but include the most important item - one of the recommended test kits. You can buy a kit at a pool store, but again the pool store kits generally won't cut it. To effectively practice the TFPC methods, the FAS/DPD chlorine test is essential. All these kits contain that test while the six way you have does not. Think of it this way, do you see a doctor blindly prescribing drugs without seeing the patient or having tests run? Here at TFP we are going to ask for photos so we can see the condition of the water and are going to ask for a full set of test results.

So, welcome to TFP!!

 

[Kiddy]

I thought that testing what I could with the hth 6way (TC, PH and ALK) and using my local pool store for the other results (1 to 2 times a wk) was a good thing. I have had a pool for about 10yrs and this is the first time that I have ever had trouble with it. This is a new pool bought in feb and installed end of may. This pool is bigger than the last and also has no skimmer installed which I now figure was where my problems started. I will be getting a skimmer for use next year. I am taking care of this one the same way I always have and have made adjustments for the larger water volume.

these are my test results from today aug 5th TC 3.0 - PH 7.4 - TA 110 (yes between these two tests I added dry acid to bring my PH down)
test results from the pool store) aug 2 FC 3.2 - TC 3.2 - CC 0.0 - PH 7.8 - CH 170 - ALK 160 - CYA 30

I am cleaning my cartridge filter two times a day and it is green each time I start and back to white when I have finished cleaning it. Is it just going to be a waiting - cleaning game until it clears up again.

I have slamed the pool and held the chlorine a a high rate for days on end. I have read pool school.

I am using liquid chlorine which is 12.5% cal hypo.
I am using ph/alk minus - sodium bisulfate 93.3%
When pool was first opened/fill the ph and alk was really really high and i used borax to bring it down. I have been slowly increasing my cya because it was only at 10-15 and according to pool store it is now 30. I used the recommended dose on pool math to slowly increase it.

how do i post a pic with this. I will post one tommorrow when i know how.

thanks for all the help.

 

[Kiddy]

ok i just ordered the tf 100 test kit it will be here when it gets here.

 

[tim5055]

Until you get your test kit don't add any CYA until we can verify that this number is correct. This is the test that pool stores get wrong the most. They told me for a long time that my CYA was 90 when in fact it was over 200.

Reading Pool School you should have seen the relationship between CYA and chlorine. The higher the CYA the higher you have to keep your chlorine to have the same sanitizing effect.

A SLAM is a continuous process, not a one night or even a few day addition of chlorine. Once you get your test kit you will need to follow the entire SLAM Process to clear up the pool.

 

[Kiddy]

 

[karmabiker]

Personally I would start a SLAM with the assumption of 30 for CYA. If your pool has been on liquid from day one that is a realistic number and you are in a much better place than most. Interesting that it was variable over time as CYA doesn't break down or evaporate. (A prime example of why we don't trust the pool store).

See this guide:
SLAMing Your Pool

 

[achianese]

I am using liquid chlorine which is 12.5% cal hypo.

If it's liquid, it's probably sodium hypochlorite, not calcium. This is a good thing because you don't want to increase CH every time you add chlorine.

Interesting that it was variable over time as CYA doesn't break down or evaporate.

It doesn't look to me that the CYA was that variable according to the pool store tests. It was at 10, then 15, then 30, and you added stabilizer after seeing the 10 and 15 numbers. If you're not adding trichlor tabs, the numbers make sense to me.

The algae bloom may simply have been caused by FC getting a little too low one day, and the chlorine could never keep up. You say you were SLAMming for several days: what FC level were you targeting at that period? The key to clearing your pool is to meet and hold the required shock FC level of 12 for your CYA level of 30. The FAS/DPD test you have ordered in the TF-100 will help you measure this properly: you need to add chlorine every hour or two at first because the chlorine is consumed as the algae is killed.

 

[Kiss4aFrog]

Welcome to the forum

I'm with Karmabiker in that "I would start a SLAM with the assumption of 30 for CYA."

What are you using the floater for ??

 

[Kiddy]

Hello

I stand corrected the liquid chlorine I use is 12.5% sodium hypochlorite. I only use liquid chlorine except for what I use in the floater. I am using the floater with hth unsanitized tablets that are 47.8% calcium hypochlorite; that way I can increase my calcium hardness slowly. I just went out (1am) and added 128oz of liquid chlorine. I will do so again in the morning when I get up around 8am. I'll then wait about 1 hour and get a water sample and take it into the local pool store as I can only test for total chlorine at this point until the new test kit arrives. I don't know if this makes a difference but the pool store is not run by kids and all of the employees behind the counter(4 of them including the owner) do more than just run a pool supply business they also install pools and take care of the large hotels and small resorts in this area. I can't wait until the new test kit arrives that way I am able to do all of my own testing. I have read pool school and I do understand the relationship between cya/chlorine. I love the pool math calculator it makes it so easy to figure out how much of what I need to add to the pool and what other things it also affects. Thanks for the help so far and I will keep you all updated as time goes by.

 

[achianese]

That's some awesome nighttime dedication! I think (and hope) that your green pool will turn cloudy blue in a day or a few days as the algae is killed. I hope you'll post more pics as the process goes on.

Regarding calcium hardness, the prevailing wisdom here is that for a vinyl liner, there is no need to bring CH up to the "recommended levels", which are there to keep plaster pools from being damaged due to mineral leaching. I don't think you've said specifically, but you have a vinyl liner, right? This doesn't mean you can't use cal hypo as long as CH is not too high, but at some point you'll want to stop and use only the liquid chlorine. Every pool can have scaling problems from CH being higher than recommended levels.

Keep it up! Dedication + information = relaxation.

 

[tim5055]

That's some awesome nighttime dedication! I think (and hope) that your green pool will turn cloudy blue in a day or a few days as the algae is killed. I hope you'll post more pics as the process goes on.

Regarding calcium hardness, the prevailing wisdom here is that for a vinyl liner, there is no need to bring CH up to the "recommended levels", which are there to keep plaster pools from being damaged due to mineral leaching. I don't think you've said specifically, but you have a vinyl liner, right? This doesn't mean you can't use cal hypo as long as CH is not too high, but at some point you'll want to stop and use only the liquid chlorine. Every pool can have scaling problems from CH being higher than recommended levels.

Keep it up! Dedication + information = relaxation.

Agreed, if it is a vinyl pool CH is irrelevant to the pool other than if the CH gets too high scaling can occur.

 

[karmabiker]

Hello

I stand corrected the liquid chlorine I use is 12.5% sodium hypochlorite. I only use liquid chlorine except for what I use in the floater. I am using the floater with hth unsanitized tablets that are 47.8% calcium hypochlorite; that way I can increase my calcium hardness slowly. I just went out (1am) and added 128oz of liquid chlorine. I will do so again in the morning when I get up around 8am. I'll then wait about 1 hour and get a water sample and take it into the local pool store as I can only test for total chlorine at this point until the new test kit arrives. I don't know if this makes a difference but the pool store is not run by kids and all of the employees behind the counter(4 of them including the owner) do more than just run a pool supply business they also install pools and take care of the large hotels and small resorts in this area. I can't wait until the new test kit arrives that way I am able to do all of my own testing. I have read pool school and I do understand the relationship between cya/chlorine. I love the pool math calculator it makes it so easy to figure out how much of what I need to add to the pool and what other things it also affects. Thanks for the help so far and I will keep you all updated as time goes by.

Good stuff. Pull the floater - the only time to be concerned with CH in a Vinyl pool is when it is too high.

Edit - Yeah ... what tim said

 

[Kiss4aFrog]

You are correct except ... there is always an exception ... if you have a lot of splash out (kids, diving, ...) and concrete, tile or stone around the edge of the pool. The low CH water splashing onto and sitting on it can damage it over time due to that leaching effect. In that case you might want to raise the CH into the low end of the "recommended range" with a vinyl liner pool.

 

[Kiddy]

hello after 1am chlorine addition of 128oz and 9am addition of another 128oz of liquid chlorine my water is now blue and cloudy. I was wondering that since I have no way of testing chlorine levels should I still go ahead and add another gallon of chlorine around 8pm as I had planned or should I leave it alone. Filter will be running 24/7 for maybe the next week then I can adjust it down a bit at that time, does that sound like a good plan? I took a sample of my water before adding the second gallon of chlorine in to the pool store so they could test my chlorine levels. Free and Total were both 9.4 with ZERO Combined chlorine. Thanks for all of the help.

 

[tim5055]

hello after 1am chlorine addition of 128oz and 9am addition of another 128oz of liquid chlorine my water is now blue and cloudy. I was wondering that since I have no way of testing chlorine levels should I still go ahead and add another gallon of chlorine around 8pm as I had planned or should I leave it alone. Filter will be running 24/7 for maybe the next week then I can adjust it down a bit at that time, does that sound like a good plan? I took a sample of my water before adding the second gallon of chlorine in to the pool store so they could test my chlorine levels. Free and Total were both 9.4 with ZERO Combined chlorine. Thanks for all of the help.

As long as you don't mind the money, sure add it. You seem to be moving in the right direction, you just can't fine tune it until the TF-100 arrives. I'm guessing you will have it tomorrow or Friday.

 

[zimm]

Wow that was a huge algae bloom! Blue and cloudy is a good next step- the chlorine is killing algae. Next phase will be all white cloudy, then the filter will do it's job. Glad you got the test kit coming. The CYA test and the drop based chlorine test will save your pool!