New to this site and to pool ownership. Purchased a used pool and had it installed the 2nd week of July. Very clear water initially, now it is very cloudy. Have added 2lb. of stabilizer and have shocked 4 times (including today). Use a chlorine stick in skimmer basket. Have added algaecide 2x and clarifier 2x. Have ordered and have not received a TF 100 kit yet, so I am using strips. PH reading is around 7.0 and the stick shows no free chlorine or stabilizer. Is it likely that the stick is just not registering any free chlorine? Have changed and cleaned the filter 4x at this point and the pressure gauge is at its normal level.
Cloudy Water
- Thread starter fsheeley
- Start date
Sorry to say you have something growing in the water. Cloudy water almost always is caused by chemical problems. As to your test (guess) strips, they are so poor the readings are almost useless.
Until you get the TF-100 you should:
Stop using/adding algaecide, clarifier, stabilizer, pucks or shock (granular) All of them are just going to make clearing the pool harder.
Add Bleach. Use your guess strips to to make sure there is always chlorine in the pool.
Do some reading over at the Pool School (there is a link at the top of the page) and ask away with the questions.
To follow the pool care methods taught here you need to arm yourself with the knowledge and tools necessary to care for your pool.
The knowledge is condensed in the Pool School link at the top of every page. It is a great community here, but we do ask that you read and try to understand the information being taught. Questions are always welcome and folks will try to direct you and teach you the methods.
The tools are not limited to the brushes, vacuum hoses and other stuff you use around the pool, but include the most important item - the TFG-100 test kit you have ordered. To effectively practice the TFPC methods, the FAS/DPD chlorine test is essential. Think of it this way, do you see a doctor blindly prescribing drugs without seeing the patient or having tests run? Here at TFP we are going to ask for photos so we can see the condition of the water and are going to ask for a full set of test results.
So, welcome to TFP!!
Until you get the TF-100 you should:
Stop using/adding algaecide, clarifier, stabilizer, pucks or shock (granular) All of them are just going to make clearing the pool harder.
Add Bleach. Use your guess strips to to make sure there is always chlorine in the pool.
Do some reading over at the Pool School (there is a link at the top of the page) and ask away with the questions.
To follow the pool care methods taught here you need to arm yourself with the knowledge and tools necessary to care for your pool.
The knowledge is condensed in the Pool School link at the top of every page. It is a great community here, but we do ask that you read and try to understand the information being taught. Questions are always welcome and folks will try to direct you and teach you the methods.
The tools are not limited to the brushes, vacuum hoses and other stuff you use around the pool, but include the most important item - the TFG-100 test kit you have ordered. To effectively practice the TFPC methods, the FAS/DPD chlorine test is essential. Think of it this way, do you see a doctor blindly prescribing drugs without seeing the patient or having tests run? Here at TFP we are going to ask for photos so we can see the condition of the water and are going to ask for a full set of test results.
So, welcome to TFP!!
well,
not knowing what your chlorine is (or was), its difficult to say about the chlorine not registering.
If your water is cloudy, you most likely have organics (algae) that is eating up the chlorine almost quicker than you can put it in. Also the sticks are not reliable, they may very well be bad.
You really really need that TF test kit so we can be sure what your water paramaters actually are.
Please read the following while you are waiting for the test kit. Once its arrived, and you have tested your water, you will need to SLam the pool as directed in one of the links below. We'll be glad to help you understand some of it, or answer more questions when the come up.
Side Note. Algaecide does not kill chlorine - its more of a preventative measure, but can also cause other problems. So adding it now was a waste of money and effort. You dont need algaecide anyway if you keep the correct Chlorine level.
While you are waiting for your test kit, in order to keep your water from getting worse, you can add 1 gallon of 8.25% bleach each evening.. that should do fine until you can do a full SLAM.
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/123-abc-of-pool-water-chemistry
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/125-slam-shock-level-and-maintain-shockingl
TFP is not just about giving advice, but providing a place where pool owners can actually learn about properly caring for their own pool and be independent of pool stores and other ill sources of pool care. Hopefully, the ABC's will get you own your way to a troublefree pool. And the SLAM link will do the trick.
not knowing what your chlorine is (or was), its difficult to say about the chlorine not registering.
If your water is cloudy, you most likely have organics (algae) that is eating up the chlorine almost quicker than you can put it in. Also the sticks are not reliable, they may very well be bad.
You really really need that TF test kit so we can be sure what your water paramaters actually are.
Please read the following while you are waiting for the test kit. Once its arrived, and you have tested your water, you will need to SLam the pool as directed in one of the links below. We'll be glad to help you understand some of it, or answer more questions when the come up.
Side Note. Algaecide does not kill chlorine - its more of a preventative measure, but can also cause other problems. So adding it now was a waste of money and effort. You dont need algaecide anyway if you keep the correct Chlorine level.
While you are waiting for your test kit, in order to keep your water from getting worse, you can add 1 gallon of 8.25% bleach each evening.. that should do fine until you can do a full SLAM.
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/123-abc-of-pool-water-chemistry
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/125-slam-shock-level-and-maintain-shockingl
TFP is not just about giving advice, but providing a place where pool owners can actually learn about properly caring for their own pool and be independent of pool stores and other ill sources of pool care. Hopefully, the ABC's will get you own your way to a troublefree pool. And the SLAM link will do the trick.
Still waiting on my test kit. After shocking and adding clarifier and algaecide, it did clear some. Dumped in a gallon of 8.25% last evening and it rained a fair amount. Water was not any clearer today but have had to change the filter and clean it 3 x in the last two days.
As stated above, we recommend against adding any clarifier or algaecide. At this point you have to decide whether to follow pool store instructions, or follow the methods utilized here, as they are not compatible.
I noticed you said you added chlorine sticks to your skimmer. Never put anything in the skimmer unless you are running your pump 24/7. Even then, there are several things I recommend you don't add to your skimmer, but a chlorine stick will be OK.
If your CYA is high (you don't know at this point without a test kit), adding chlorine pucks or sticks are going to make matters even worse.
You can use Pool Math at the top of this page and determine how much chlorine you need to add to start the SLAM process. A gallon isn't going to be near enough.
SLAM: http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/125-slam-shock-level-and-maintain-shockingl
I noticed you said you added chlorine sticks to your skimmer. Never put anything in the skimmer unless you are running your pump 24/7. Even then, there are several things I recommend you don't add to your skimmer, but a chlorine stick will be OK.
If your CYA is high (you don't know at this point without a test kit), adding chlorine pucks or sticks are going to make matters even worse.
You can use Pool Math at the top of this page and determine how much chlorine you need to add to start the SLAM process. A gallon isn't going to be near enough.
SLAM: http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/125-slam-shock-level-and-maintain-shockingl
I am not totally familiar with all the procedures here yet. I am just adding a gallon of chlorine recommended here in previous reply until I get the test kit to get accurate readings to begin the SLAM process. I am not sure of any of my test strip results. I may have missed reading this previously but what is the best or recommended way to clean the filter? At this point I am just using a water hose with a trigger for pressure. In other conversations, I have heard of setting it in muriatic acid or using a high pressure washer
Pool School is your friend! 
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/144-maintenance-and-cleaning-of-pool-filters
To clean a cartridge filter, the pump must be turned off. If the filter is below the water level of the pool, there should be valves that have to be closed to prevent the pool from draining when the filter is opened. Open the air bleed valve on the top of the filter and the drain port on the bottom of the filter and allow the water to drain out. Then open the body of the filter (this may involve unscrewing some knobs, removing a nut at the top, or removing a bracket) and remove the cart or carts. Make sure you note their position and orientation so you have no trouble reassembling the unit! Rinse out the filter tank and take the carts to where you want to clean them. All you need is a garden hose with a nozzle. A small fixed brass nozzle, sold by many hardware stores, works best. Wash the carts from the top to the bottom aiming ~ 45 degrees down at them. Please remember to wash both the outside portion and the inner portion - it's a good idea to start at an identifying point on the cart and wash all the way around, then repeat on the inside. Once finished, reassemble the filter, close the drain port, open any valves you might have closed, turn the pump back on, when water runs steadily out of the air bleed valve close it, and you're good to go until the pressure raises again. If the pressure after cleaning does not return to your standard starting pressure you will need to do a more through cleaning, see this post for more details.
Here are the "more details" http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/4224-Re-How-to-clean-a-cartridge-filter
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/144-maintenance-and-cleaning-of-pool-filters
To clean a cartridge filter, the pump must be turned off. If the filter is below the water level of the pool, there should be valves that have to be closed to prevent the pool from draining when the filter is opened. Open the air bleed valve on the top of the filter and the drain port on the bottom of the filter and allow the water to drain out. Then open the body of the filter (this may involve unscrewing some knobs, removing a nut at the top, or removing a bracket) and remove the cart or carts. Make sure you note their position and orientation so you have no trouble reassembling the unit! Rinse out the filter tank and take the carts to where you want to clean them. All you need is a garden hose with a nozzle. A small fixed brass nozzle, sold by many hardware stores, works best. Wash the carts from the top to the bottom aiming ~ 45 degrees down at them. Please remember to wash both the outside portion and the inner portion - it's a good idea to start at an identifying point on the cart and wash all the way around, then repeat on the inside. Once finished, reassemble the filter, close the drain port, open any valves you might have closed, turn the pump back on, when water runs steadily out of the air bleed valve close it, and you're good to go until the pressure raises again. If the pressure after cleaning does not return to your standard starting pressure you will need to do a more through cleaning, see this post for more details.
Here are the "more details" http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/4224-Re-How-to-clean-a-cartridge-filter
Still waiting on test kit. Have been adding one gallon of bleach per day and water is much clearer. My pH level is showing in the 6.8 range on the Aqua Chek stick. Any ideas as to whether this stick is close to accurate on pH. Should I go ahead and try to raise the pH or wait for the test kit?
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