Ability to quickly disconnect my pool pump

[raterus]

My pool pump is on the brink and just hums when I start it, if it's not the start capacitor (on order), I'm going to just order an entire new pump.

Looking at how this pump was installed, I'm going to have to cut pipe to get it out, the installer didn't use anything that would let me quickly disconnect the pump. What is the preferred way to install a pool pump that allows for easy swap in the future. I was looking at "unions" and think that would work, but was wondering if there is another way?.

Thanks!

 

[SunnyOptimism]

I would think most PBs would plumb a pump with a straight hard line as you have. Pumps should last a long time, so putting a quick-disconnect union in would probably invite more problems than it's worth (suction side air leaks, etc).

My opinion would be to hard plumb any new pump you get as you currently have it which means cutting pipe and using a coupler to connect the two pipe ends together with a solid PVC weld joint. I guess you could add a screw-on type coupler but you have to weigh the risk of having an additional o-ring seal there that could potentially leak....

 

[jblizzle]

Some pumps come with unions to use to connect the plumbing (like the Superflo). Or you can just add your own unions.

But, if the wet end is ok, it is much easier to just replace the bad motor. Just the motor is cheaper and I would suggest you consider upgrading to a 2-speed motor or pump for the electrical savings.

 

[raterus]

Thanks for the ideas, I was looking at just replacing the motor but didn't seem as cost effective as just buying a slightly used pump. By the time you buy a new motor/seals/etc. you're around the same price as a used pump.

I prefer using unions as being a diy'er, it would be nice to detach the pump to work on it should I ever need to, it's been rather a pain to get to the capacitor as the back of the pump is only a few inches from the side of my house.

 

[jblizzle]

But, it is a used pump. Someone could have destroyed it in a matter of a few minutes.

 

[bobodaclown]

Look at getting a remaufactured motor if you're looking to save a few bucks, they test the windings, new bearing and paint. Motors usually die because of the bearing going bad, increasing resistance, which in turn, produce more heat, that destroy the windings. Replacing the motor is usually cheaper and easier than the whole pump. You normally get 1yr on the motor.
Not affiliated with any of these:
http://www.poolmotorexchange.com/
http://poolmotorcorp.com/
http://www.electricmotorwarehouse.com/

Hope it helps.

 

[raterus]

I hear what you're saying about just replacing the motor, other than new seals, should I also replace the impeller/diffuser? How long should the water side of the pump really last?

 

[Smykowski]

Impeller/diffuser only need to be changed if you're dropping the HP. Wet ends should last a very long time.

 

[zea3]

Wet ends will be good as long as they are not warped or cracked.

 

[raterus]

Thanks for the help, I think I'm definitely going to just replace the motor now when it comes time.

 

[MBG75]

Just re plumbed my fathers AGP. Used unions for all hose connections. Did away with clamps and barbs.

And yes, the motor cover is off to replace the cord.

 

[happyheathen]

While you have the pump off the line, now would be a good time to look at re-locating or re-aligning the pump to reduce/eliminate the physical clearance problem.

The problem with manufacturer's unions is that they are proprietary, and you can't mix them - a pipe with a Hayward union is worthless if you want to install a Pentair pump - it's back to the hacksaw and splicing in a chunk with a Pentair union.

I have unions on both sides of both the pump and filter. I used an out of adjustment electronic level for the suction line (I was down to the last 3" above ground - a solid install could make a mess for the next install) and the level was off by 8 degrees. I solved the problem by grinding down the end of the pipe to form a taper - and quickly applied solvent, rammed the pipe into the (installed) union and using a good level, got it plumb.

Aside from that foul-up, I have had no problems with unions.

Yes, they introduce another point of failure, but eliminate the situation of one connector after another until there is no more pipe to connect.