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Thread: Water turning green

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    Water turning green

    Ok, so my water is steadily turning green over the last 3 days. Chlorine is at 5.0 (or higher) and ph is low at 6.8 or lower. What should be my next steps? Should I just assume the green is Algae and SLAM or? 10,000 gallon 22' pool Intex with original 2,500gph pump/filter. Should I replace the filter its about 2 months old?

    Thanks

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    Mod Squad JVTrain's Avatar
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    Re: Water turning green

    We're missing critical information such as your CYA (stabilizer) level. Can't give advice without it. Your pH is too low. Likely because you're using trichlor tablets or shocking with dichlor? Your CYA may be high or unmanageable due to these products.

    Looks like you need more Pool School reading and then post full test results.
    Joel - TFP Moderator - Minnesota - **Become a TFP Supporter!** Helpful Links: ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry - SLAM Procedure - Chlorine/CYA Chart
    40x20 Pool: 32K Gallons * Vinyl * Bleach Chlorination * Hayward S270T Sand Filter * Pentair SuperFlo 1 HP * Teledyne/Laars Heater * AquaVac Tigershark * TF-100 w/ SpeedStir
    Isolated Spa - 345 Gallons

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    Re: Water turning green

    Welcome to the forum.


    On your problems. What test kit are you using? It sounds like it's a simple color match kit. If so, you really need a more comprehensive test kit. The recommended kits here are the Taylor K2006, or the preferred (due to quantities of reagents) the TF100 from www.TFtestkits.net if you already have the color match then you can use the TF50, but I'd go ahead and get the TF100 with XL option (more stuff to test Chlorine levels) and the Speedstir (It makes testing quicker and less tiring on your wrist).

    These test kits allow you to test every important level in your pool water. To kill off Algae one big one that's needed is the CYA level. The CYA dictates how high you need to bring your FC.

    Here's some light reading.
    http://www.troublefreepool.com/conte...ater-chemistry

    Another noteworthy thing. Since we don't know how high your FC is we don't know if we can trust the pH level. (if you're using granular/puck chlorination the low pH may be accurate). However if your FC is above 10 the pH reagent won't give an accurate reading.

    Once you get a complete set of test results we will be able to help more. One thing is for certain you'll need to SLAM (I'm encouraged you used this term...it means you've been reading).

    for ease, here's the SLAM link http://www.troublefreepool.com/conte...tain-shockingl

    Inadequate filtration is not the cause of your algae. Is it a Cartirdge or sand filter?
    IG gunite/plaster pool/spa Started 1/17/14, Plastered 5/16/14
    Size: 12'-21'x39' free form, depth ranging from 4' to 7, attached 6 person spa with spillover.
    Equipment: Whisperflo 2hp pump, Pentair 30" sand filter, Pentair Mastertemp 400k BTU heater, 1hp Whisperflo for waterfalls, and a blower for spa floor

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    Re: Water turning green

    Definitely need to do more reading. CYA is new to me (last time I dealt with pool chemistry I was a teenager and that was 24+ years ago. At that time all we used was liquid chlorine and tablets. The guy at homedepot told me to add one bag of shock http://www.homedepot.com/p/Pool-Time...0PTM/100042633 with algae killer. He seemed to know wth he was talking about. I added it yesterday and the pool is greener today.

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    Re: Water turning green

    Quote Originally Posted by mrcarcrazy View Post
    Welcome to the forum.


    On your problems. What test kit are you using? It sounds like it's a simple color match kit. If so, you really need a more comprehensive test kit. The recommended kits here are the Taylor K2006, or the preferred (due to quantities of reagents) the TF100 from www.TFtestkits.net if you already have the color match then you can use the TF50, but I'd go ahead and get the TF100 with XL option (more stuff to test Chlorine levels) and the Speedstir (It makes testing quicker and less tiring on your wrist).


    These test kits allow you to test every important level in your pool water. To kill off Algae one big one that's needed is the CYA level. The CYA dictates how high you need to bring your FC.
    Using http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded...=hdx+pool+test guess its time to upgrade.

    Here's some light reading.
    http://www.troublefreepool.com/conte...ater-chemistry

    Another noteworthy thing. Since we don't know how high your FC is we don't know if we can trust the pH level. (if you're using granular/puck chlorination the low pH may be accurate). However if your FC is above 10 the pH reagent won't give an accurate reading.
    Will definitely be reading, would like to get pool back in service ASAP. I am using 3" tablets, of the trichlor-triaz type. With my chlorine level as high as it is should I remove them at this point?

    Once you get a complete set of test results we will be able to help more. One thing is for certain you'll need to SLAM (I'm encouraged you used this term...it means you've been reading).

    for ease, here's the SLAM link http://www.troublefreepool.com/conte...tain-shockingl

    Inadequate filtration is not the cause of your algae. Is it a Cartirdge or sand filter?
    It is cartridge style the Intex B.

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    Re: Water turning green

    To be honest, the higher FC level doesn't concern me nearly as much as the probable high CYA. (The high CYA won't harm anything, but it will make your pool ownership much more aggravating)

    While you are reading check out this little chart
    http://www.troublefreepool.com/conte...art-slam-shock It shows the relation of CYA and target Free chlorine.

    If I were in your shoes. I'd remove the pucks, and start buying bleach While you wait for your complete test kit.

    On that shock. Don't add any more of it. Copper is not your friend when it comes to pool chemistry.

    If the CYA is high, you may need to drain off some of the water. Mentally prepare yourself for this as a possibility. (draining water is a big deal to me. It may not be as mentally troubling for people in other parts of the US. )

    While you're at it here's another helpful writeup about different methods of Chlorination.
    http://www.troublefreepool.com/conte...nate-your-pool
    IG gunite/plaster pool/spa Started 1/17/14, Plastered 5/16/14
    Size: 12'-21'x39' free form, depth ranging from 4' to 7, attached 6 person spa with spillover.
    Equipment: Whisperflo 2hp pump, Pentair 30" sand filter, Pentair Mastertemp 400k BTU heater, 1hp Whisperflo for waterfalls, and a blower for spa floor

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    Re: Water turning green

    Quote Originally Posted by mrcarcrazy View Post
    To be honest, the higher FC level doesn't concern me nearly as much as the probable high CYA. While you are reading check out this little chart
    http://www.troublefreepool.com/conte...art-slam-shock It shows the relation of CYA and target Free chlorine.

    If I were in your shoes. I'd remove the pucks, and start buying bleach While you wait for your complete test kit.
    Will remove them for now then. on the CYA, my pool is in direct sun from sunup till about 4:30pm. So from what has been said here and the link you provide it looks like my cya level may indeed be high. The pool is a smidge (1") low on water now, would adding some fresh be advisable or should I again wait for the test kit?
    On that shock. Don't add any more of it. Copper is not your friend when it comes to pool chemistry.
    Rodger that.
    If the CYA is high, you may need to drain off some of the water. Mentally prepare yourself for this as a possibility. (draining water is a big deal to me. It may not be as mentally troubling for people in other parts of the US. )
    My biggest issue with draining is the only place I can drain is into the woods by my house. We are on septic tank so no sewer to drain into. With chlorine levels that high would it damage plants?
    Last edited by lordrahlly; 08-04-2014 at 09:50 AM. Reason: bad quote block

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    Re: Water turning green

    I would keep it topped up. Adding water won't really effect your CYA level. you have to drain off the "tainted" water to drop it.


    I imagine with the Algae you have in there the FC will drop pretty quickly... I wish I could say you could start SLAMing, but you can't until you know the CYA.

    Oh, and once you test and see the FC is below 5ppm (again the real number is 10ppm, but your kit is limited to 5ppm), you can adjust the pH to in range and THEN start the SLAM process.
    IG gunite/plaster pool/spa Started 1/17/14, Plastered 5/16/14
    Size: 12'-21'x39' free form, depth ranging from 4' to 7, attached 6 person spa with spillover.
    Equipment: Whisperflo 2hp pump, Pentair 30" sand filter, Pentair Mastertemp 400k BTU heater, 1hp Whisperflo for waterfalls, and a blower for spa floor

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    Re: Water turning green

    Quote Originally Posted by mrcarcrazy View Post
    I imagine with the Algae you have in there the FC will drop pretty quickly... I wish I could say you could start SLAMing, but you can't until you know the CYA.
    While waiting for my test kit to come should I run a sample of the water to the local pool supply that offers free testing?

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    Re: Water turning green

    Not recommended. Pool stores are notorious for getting test results wrong.

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    Mod Squad JVTrain's Avatar
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    Re: Water turning green

    Taking a sample to most pool stores is a waste of gas for bad results and bad advice.
    Joel - TFP Moderator - Minnesota - **Become a TFP Supporter!** Helpful Links: ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry - SLAM Procedure - Chlorine/CYA Chart
    40x20 Pool: 32K Gallons * Vinyl * Bleach Chlorination * Hayward S270T Sand Filter * Pentair SuperFlo 1 HP * Teledyne/Laars Heater * AquaVac Tigershark * TF-100 w/ SpeedStir
    Isolated Spa - 345 Gallons

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