Where to start

[budman70526]

Just received my T-K2006. Resullts are:
FC= 10
CC= 1.2
PH=8+ took 8 drops acid demand to bring to 7.2/7.4
TA= 170
CH=100
CYA= 0 Have never put any. What is it and where do you get it?
Temp.= 84F

 

[Richard320]

Just received my T-K2006. Resullts are:
FC= 10
CC= 1.2
PH=8+ took 8 drops acid demand to bring to 7.2/7.4
TA= 170

Finish the testing. The high CC is worrisome, but the FC may still be too low, depending on the CYA level. And you don't know what the CH level is, either. Low CH is no problem for a vinyl pool, but high CH can still cause scaling.

 

[budman70526]

Did Finish, just hit wrong button. See Edited post.

 

[Richard320]

You need to lower the pH using acid, and add some stabilizer to get CYA up to 30, and then raise FC up to 12 and maintain it there until the CC is below .5 and the water is clear and the overnight loss is less than 1.

But first, maybe you should repeat the FC & CC tests and give us a little more information. If this is a fresh fill, those CCs could just be the chloramines the water company puts in tap water and they will be gone tomorrow just from sunlight exposure.

Have you been to pool school? What I just posted may sound like gibberish, and if so, we need to speak the same language. Start with the ABCs so you understand the next articles.
Recommended Pool Chemicals tells you what chemical does what and how to add it
Pool Math Explained tells you how much to add
Finally, Shock Level And Maintain goes into detail about eradicating those CCs and clearing up cloudy or green water. It also has a link to the article on the overnight loss test.

 

[tim5055]

You can get CYA (also known as stabilizer) at WalMart in the seasonal pool section.

Muratic acid is at Lowes in the paint section. They have two, green label "low fume" and the blue label full strength stuff. You want the blue label.

 

[SunnyOptimism]

Chances are, your pH value is reading high (false high) because your FC is at 10ppm. That's close to the upper limit of the pH reagents allowable range since high chlorine levels chemically change the pH indicator color.

So, take it slow and easy dropping that pH. With 8 drops of acid demand reagent, your pH was likely A LOT higher than 8 but there no way to know for sure. You're going to need to add the acid slowly and in stages, allowing at least 30min with the pump running for good mixing (you can give it some help too by brushing or skimming the pool). Measure after each stage and add more as needed.

As you drop your pH, that TA will come down as well. You might want to retest TA after you get your pH lowered to the desired value.

Second step is to get your FC/CC right. If you do need to do a SLAM, you'll need to make sure your pH is ~7.2 to start because pH tests are not accurate during a SLAM.

 

[danacc]

Hey, how are you doing? What are your latest numbers?