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Thread: Where to start

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    Where to start

    Just received my T-K2006. Resullts are:
    FC= 10
    CC= 1.2
    PH=8+ took 8 drops acid demand to bring to 7.2/7.4
    TA= 170
    CH=100
    CYA= 0 Have never put any. What is it and where do you get it?
    Temp.= 84F
    Last edited by budman70526; 08-03-2014 at 04:22 PM. Reason: Was not finished typing.
    16x48 Intex above groud 6500 Gal. w/Krystal Clear (Intex) 16" sand filter & SWG system (2650 GPH). Two different homemade sprinklers, will post pics when I learn to use the forum better.

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    Richard320's Avatar
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    Re: Where to start

    Quote Originally Posted by budman70526 View Post
    Just received my T-K2006. Resullts are:
    FC= 10
    CC= 1.2
    PH=8+ took 8 drops acid demand to bring to 7.2/7.4
    TA= 170
    Finish the testing. The high CC is worrisome, but the FC may still be too low, depending on the CYA level. And you don't know what the CH level is, either. Low CH is no problem for a vinyl pool, but high CH can still cause scaling.
    16K freeform gunite with spa; Pentair 4000 DE filter; Century Whisperflow 1 HP; Pentair Minimax heater.
    Troublefree does not mean Maintenancefree. It's like brushing your teeth: You can spend a couple minutes a day and pennies a week or go to the dentist once a year and spend several thousand dollars.
    A pool is like a pet - you have to feed it every day, even the days you don't want to play with it!

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    Re: Where to start

    Did Finish, just hit wrong button. See Edited post.
    16x48 Intex above groud 6500 Gal. w/Krystal Clear (Intex) 16" sand filter & SWG system (2650 GPH). Two different homemade sprinklers, will post pics when I learn to use the forum better.

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    Richard320's Avatar
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    Re: Where to start

    You need to lower the pH using acid, and add some stabilizer to get CYA up to 30, and then raise FC up to 12 and maintain it there until the CC is below .5 and the water is clear and the overnight loss is less than 1.

    But first, maybe you should repeat the FC & CC tests and give us a little more information. If this is a fresh fill, those CCs could just be the chloramines the water company puts in tap water and they will be gone tomorrow just from sunlight exposure.

    Have you been to pool school? What I just posted may sound like gibberish, and if so, we need to speak the same language. Start with the ABCs so you understand the next articles.
    Recommended Pool Chemicals tells you what chemical does what and how to add it
    Pool Math Explained tells you how much to add
    Finally, Shock Level And Maintain goes into detail about eradicating those CCs and clearing up cloudy or green water. It also has a link to the article on the overnight loss test.
    16K freeform gunite with spa; Pentair 4000 DE filter; Century Whisperflow 1 HP; Pentair Minimax heater.
    Troublefree does not mean Maintenancefree. It's like brushing your teeth: You can spend a couple minutes a day and pennies a week or go to the dentist once a year and spend several thousand dollars.
    A pool is like a pet - you have to feed it every day, even the days you don't want to play with it!

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    Mod Squad tim5055's Avatar
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    Re: Where to start

    You can get CYA (also known as stabilizer) at WalMart in the seasonal pool section.

    Muratic acid is at Lowes in the paint section. They have two, green label "low fume" and the blue label full strength stuff. You want the blue label.
    TFP Moderator 39 X 18 23,000(ish) freeform gunite; built 2007ish; Pentair Triton II TR100 600lb Sand filter; 2 HP Pentair pump with 2.2 HP AO Smith single speed motor; 2 skimmers, 1 main drain, 4 returns w/waterfall, Stenner 45MHP2 3GPD running@ 60% - 15 gal Tank; heated by the sun CYA 200+ when I started - 50 now. Dolphin Supreme M5 Pool Cleaner. Hot Springs SX Spa, 285 gallon

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    Re: Where to start

    Chances are, your pH value is reading high (false high) because your FC is at 10ppm. That's close to the upper limit of the pH reagents allowable range since high chlorine levels chemically change the pH indicator color.

    So, take it slow and easy dropping that pH. With 8 drops of acid demand reagent, your pH was likely A LOT higher than 8 but there no way to know for sure. You're going to need to add the acid slowly and in stages, allowing at least 30min with the pump running for good mixing (you can give it some help too by brushing or skimming the pool). Measure after each stage and add more as needed.

    As you drop your pH, that TA will come down as well. You might want to retest TA after you get your pH lowered to the desired value.

    Second step is to get your FC/CC right. If you do need to do a SLAM, you'll need to make sure your pH is ~7.2 to start because pH tests are not accurate during a SLAM.

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    Re: Where to start

    Hey, how are you doing? What are your latest numbers?
    Outdoor 14,000 gallon IG plaster pool built in 2000 with spillover spa, 2 hp WhisperFlo pump with MagneTek motor, Sta-Rite cartridge pool filter with 300 ft2 filtration area and 0.33 gpm/ft2 filtration rate, Aquabot Rapids 4WD robotic pool cleaner, Raypak digital gas heater, and Intermatic mechanical timer located in the Dallas-Fort Worth metroplex

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