Not sure what order to change pool readings. I have high ph and 0 cya. I posted somewhere else but I think this is a different place and better suited for questions. TC-1, PH-8.2 ,TA-?, CH-25ppm, CYA 0,BORATE 15 any suggestions or directions:fish:
new and not sure...
- Thread starter Tonia
- Start date
Welcome again Tonia.
Is this an Intex pool? If so, can you add it to your signature. I'm asking because vinyl lined pools need no calcium.
You'll need to bring your pH down with Muriatic Acid. You can find it at your local home improvement store. Use PoolMath to figure out how much to add to get to 7.5. Then calculate how much CYA to add using Pool Math and add it to a sock and let it hang over the return to dissolve. If you calculate for a CYA level of 40, then use Pool Math again and add 5ppm bleach.
You will also benefit greatly by reading these Pool School Links:
ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry
Recommended Pool Chemicals
How to Chlorinate Your Pool
Chlorine CYA Chart
Test Kit Comparison
If you don't have a good test kit, you'll need one as mentioned in the last link I provided. The TF100 is the best kit as you will get more reagents than the K2006 offers. Please ask more questions if you have any once you're done reading what I have provided for you.
Is this an Intex pool? If so, can you add it to your signature. I'm asking because vinyl lined pools need no calcium.
You'll need to bring your pH down with Muriatic Acid. You can find it at your local home improvement store. Use PoolMath to figure out how much to add to get to 7.5. Then calculate how much CYA to add using Pool Math and add it to a sock and let it hang over the return to dissolve. If you calculate for a CYA level of 40, then use Pool Math again and add 5ppm bleach.
You will also benefit greatly by reading these Pool School Links:
ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry
Recommended Pool Chemicals
How to Chlorinate Your Pool
Chlorine CYA Chart
Test Kit Comparison
If you don't have a good test kit, you'll need one as mentioned in the last link I provided. The TF100 is the best kit as you will get more reagents than the K2006 offers. Please ask more questions if you have any once you're done reading what I have provided for you.
Casey thanks for the links, helped a lot. I feel as if I've read 20- 30 hrs on this site but need at least 20-30 more days! Lol. I can not figure out how to edit my signature, and the pool math site I keep trying to use but haven't figured out if I am supposed to do just one at a time or fill whole thing out, sure I'm just missing something. I do have vinyl liner, intex. This is my 3rd year w/this and a swg.just wanted to know more what's going on w/my pools water and came across this group! I did get the TF100 and spent most of today watching videos and trying to figure out the testing. My TA and my TYA not so sure I did right even tho I did both of those test twice. Thanks again for the direction and I know I will be reading a lot of the schooling soon.
Stick with the few links I gave you. And a tip for CYA is if you're not sure on the test the first time, you can reuse the reagents mixed by pouring back into the mixer bottle and starting the test over by transferring back and forth so you're not wasting. 
To use the calculator, enter gallons of pool water at the top. Then in the now column, add your results you have now. pH would be 8.2 and lets say you want it down to 7.2, plug 7.2 into the target and it will come up with how much muriatic acid to add. Add half that just so you don't over shoot and check in a half hour and add second half if it's still high. You will add all your now numbers into the now column on the left and your target numbers in the right hand column. Play with it. You won't break it!
Keep asking questions.
To use the calculator, enter gallons of pool water at the top. Then in the now column, add your results you have now. pH would be 8.2 and lets say you want it down to 7.2, plug 7.2 into the target and it will come up with how much muriatic acid to add. Add half that just so you don't over shoot and check in a half hour and add second half if it's still high. You will add all your now numbers into the now column on the left and your target numbers in the right hand column. Play with it. You won't break it!
Keep asking questions.
ok I am still not even getting an TA after adding 20 drops, and my ph is still 8.2. I have added bleach, mur.acid and stabilizer. my #'s are C-1.2 PH-8.2 FC1.5 CC-.5 CAL-25( i know not supposed to have cal. but its their- could be my well water not sure) CYA- is already at 33. Should I try to find some dichlor because that is all I can read that will drop ph quickly, and is my only guess on why I cant get a TA reading. I am guessing if I did this I would need to take the stabalizer out of the skimmer
No, do not add Dichlor and I don't know where you read that it drops pH quickly because that is simply not true. Muriatic Acid is the strong acid you use to lower the pH and that will also lower the TA as well. Just keep adding Muriatic Acid lowering your pH down to around 7.0 on your test kit. That means a lot of acid, but always add it slowly over a return flow with the pump running and after you've added the acid be sure to lightly brush the side and bottom of the pool where you've added the acid. Let's assume your TA is at least 200 ppm given your test and the pH of 8.2, you could safely add 5 fluid ounces of full-strength Muriatic Acid which will lower your TA by 40 ppm and lower your pH towards close to 7.0 (it technically would be 6.9, but because of carbon dioxide outgassing it will more likely be in the 7.0 to 7.2 range).
I assume that when you write "still not even getting an TA" you mean that it is green and stays green even after 20 drops, correct? A lot of times the R-0009 titrating reagent in the TA test has static electricity on the tip. If that is the case, then the drops squirt out or are too small in which case you would over-estimate your TA level. You should wipe the dropper tip with a damp cloth and the drops should then be larger and well-formed similar to drops in other tests.
Basically you would be following the Lower Total Alkalinity procedure from the Pool School. Apparently your well water is very high in TA though your low CH is a bit unusual for well water.
I assume that when you write "still not even getting an TA" you mean that it is green and stays green even after 20 drops, correct? A lot of times the R-0009 titrating reagent in the TA test has static electricity on the tip. If that is the case, then the drops squirt out or are too small in which case you would over-estimate your TA level. You should wipe the dropper tip with a damp cloth and the drops should then be larger and well-formed similar to drops in other tests.
Basically you would be following the Lower Total Alkalinity procedure from the Pool School. Apparently your well water is very high in TA though your low CH is a bit unusual for well water.
How to chlorinate your pool under dichlor it stated- adds chlorine and cya and lowers ph. All in the same sentence I'm pretty sure but I haven't added it.just the bleach, acid and cya.Tested it about 4hrs later for cya. And it was around 30 I think don't have figures here now and it has been raining since then. I have been wiping w/damp cloth before every drop into the blue/green TA it swirls red as the drops fall in but never turns anything but a lil yellow so I think I'm supposed to use the yellow color as a recording when it doesn't change any different after that I just haven't been home to try to figure that one out yet but I do appreciate you hanging in here w/ me!Thanks
Yes, using Dichlor OVER TIME lowers the pH but not upon the addition of the chemical but when the chlorine gets used/consumed. You don't want to add a chemical such as Dichlor that increases FC AND CYA and only has some lowering of pH over time when the goal is just to lower the pH. You use a strong acid when you want to lower the pH. I suggest you read the ABC's article in the Pool School again.
If you are going more from blue to yellow instead of from green to red in the TA test, then that means your FC must be quite high. You can either add more of the R-0007 chlorine neutralizing (thiosulfate) drops or you can just use the transition from blue to yellow.
If you are going more from blue to yellow instead of from green to red in the TA test, then that means your FC must be quite high. You can either add more of the R-0007 chlorine neutralizing (thiosulfate) drops or you can just use the transition from blue to yellow.
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