Newbie here to TFP method!! Please advise.

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Chaddyp59

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Jul 21, 2014
14
Brandon, MS
First post!!

My Chlorinator had a leak in it this week so I started researching the web for advice and came across this site. I have purchased and received my K-2006 kit and am about to begin testing tonight. I have removed the Chlorinator all together and replumbed. I have purchase 9 bottles of 121 oz 8.25% unsented Clorox bleach, 3 large bags of Arm and Hammer baking soda (13lbs each I believe) and 2 boxes of 20 mule team Borax.

Question? Should I start with the PH test first and make sure it is ok? Where is the best place to begin with testing?
 
:wave: Welcome to TFP!!!

What makes some of the new members go out and buy baking soda and borax before you have even tested your water to know if you need it? Oh well, you can use it in the laundry if you do not need it.

Start with the pH and FC/CC testing as those are slightly time critical after you take the sample. Then do the rest. The CYA test should be done outside in bright indirect light.

Read: Extended Test Instructions
 
First off I have been using stabilized pucks for 2.5 yrs. Well my chlorinator was leaking so the pool was shut down for a few days. I borrowed a neighbors test stips, because my k-2006 hadn't arrived yet. I was at 0 fc on the strip. I was beginning to get some algae bloom so I removed the chlorinator and replumbed. I put 3 gallons of 8.25 clorox because thats all I had. Kit came in today and here are the numbers.. yikes!!!

FC 16.5
CC 0
PH 7.2
TA 90
CH 120

CYA -180!! I had to do the diluted test to even figure it out.

Is that possible? Water is cloudy and I have been brushing and vacumming past two days.

Any advice?
 
Chaddyp59 said:
First off I have been using stabilized pucks for 2.5 yrs. Well my chlorinator was leaking so the pool was shut down for a few days. I borrowed a neighbors test stips, because my k-2006 hadn't arrived yet. I was at 0 fc on the strip. I was beginning to get some algae bloom so I removed the chlorinator and replumbed. I put 3 gallons of 8.25 clorox because thats all I had. Kit came in today and here are the numbers.. yikes!!!

FC 16.5
CC 0
PH 7.2
TA 90
CH 120

CYA -180!! I had to do the diluted test to even figure it out.

Is that possible? Water is cloudy and I have been brushing and vacumming past two days.

Any advice?
Click to expand...
180 CYA is not only possible, it's almost expected in a pool with an inline puck feeder. With each 10 ppm FC you add via pucks, you also add 6 CYA. Even if the pool's appetite is light and you only lose 2 FC per day and you somehow get the puck feeder to add exactly the right amount, you add 8.5 CYA per week. That's over 100 CYA in 3 months! If it overfeeds, or your FC demand due to sun and use is higher, it will add even more CYA. And the dichlor "shock" the pool store recommends you toss in every week adds even more!

I started with a pool at 220-240 CYA. (Dilution starts affecting the test accuracy) Luckily, my water was clear, and I was able to maintain it that way until water restrictions were lifted some so I could replace water. With a cloudy pool, clearing it at that CYA level just isn't really feasible. You'll need to drain and replace about 80%.

Here's where it gets dicey... If you live in California, water restrictions may prohibit refilling. If the water table is close to the surface, like New Orleans, you risk floating the pool. If you have a vinyl liner, you can't drain it all in one shot - you need to leave at least a foot in the shallow end lest the liner shift and wrinkle. Also worth taking into account is that some water companies will waive the tiered rates once every so many years for pool refills, and some places base sewer rates on water consumption, but if you notify them in advance, they will sometimes adjust that charge down.

Why I bring all this up is because we have no idea. That's why we ask people to add their location and fill out the signature with the pool information. How to do it is here.
 
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