Right I have just upgraded my pump and bout a 1/2 hp pump and sand filter. Got it all wired up and was working fine however I woke up the following morning and the pump wasnt working. After taking the cover off the pump the capacitor has blown a hole in the side of it. I have sourced a replacement cap but my question is could how I wired it up have caused this or does the fact that it was working for a few hours mean its wired up ok?
Blown capacitor after 1 day
- Thread starter rodg98133
- Start date
mark-o
0
Electronic parts are weird like that, some will last 30 yrs and some 30 min. Was it a new motor with a new cap?
Well I bought it second hand unused but the guy had it sitting around for 3 years as never got round to installing it.
svenpup
LifeTime Supporter
Sitting 3 years had nothing to do it. I'm a EE, and in the biz we call it infant mortality. If a part makes it past an hour it will probably last ten years.
mgarf33
Well-known member
- Oct 27, 2013
- 207
Are you sure it is wired properly.
Does it have a selector for 120v or 240v?
Have you checked your disconnect box for proper line voltage?
The capacitor is only designed to operate in the circuit for a very short period. Once ~80 operating speed has been achieved the centrifugal switch will drop it out. If it remains in the circuit too long for some reason, it will likely cause premature failure or trip the internal overload. Many newer capacitors are made in... Yep you guessed it CHINA or Mexico!!! Yaay, more imported junk. So, don't be surprised if it's just a bad cap.
When the pump starts, you should hear a 'clack' sound with in a second or so. This is the switch opening the aux winding circuit with the start capacitor. Again, I would double check to ensure the switch is opening in a timely manner.
Hope that helps.
Does it have a selector for 120v or 240v?
Have you checked your disconnect box for proper line voltage?
The capacitor is only designed to operate in the circuit for a very short period. Once ~80 operating speed has been achieved the centrifugal switch will drop it out. If it remains in the circuit too long for some reason, it will likely cause premature failure or trip the internal overload. Many newer capacitors are made in... Yep you guessed it CHINA or Mexico!!! Yaay, more imported junk. So, don't be surprised if it's just a bad cap.
When the pump starts, you should hear a 'clack' sound with in a second or so. This is the switch opening the aux winding circuit with the start capacitor. Again, I would double check to ensure the switch is opening in a timely manner.
Hope that helps.
Its a run capacitor as opposed to a start capacitor so it runs all the time. Here is the old broken one
Here is the replacement I have bought
My only problem is the new one has no wires attatched and four spade connections of which none are labelled. My old one had 2 wires already attached. How do I know which of the spades to connect to where?
Here is the replacement I have bought
My only problem is the new one has no wires attatched and four spade connections of which none are labelled. My old one had 2 wires already attached. How do I know which of the spades to connect to where?
I see a raised plastic line separating two spades from the other two. I believe two spades on 1 side of the line are connected, and the 2 spades on the other side of the line are connected. If you use an ohm meter to check the resistance between two spades on the same side of the line you can verify if I am correct.
If you check resistance between a spade on 1 side of the line to a spade on the other side of the line, you should measure very high resistance (infinity) Note: Meter may jump towards low resistance briefly then return to infinity.
I'm assuming your original capacitor has two wires connected to it. If so, wire the new capacitor to the same locations on the motor using a spade on one side of the plastic line and one spade on the other side of the plastic line.
I see that the original cap was 12.5 uF and the new one is 16 uF. That may be OK, but I'm not sure
If you check resistance between a spade on 1 side of the line to a spade on the other side of the line, you should measure very high resistance (infinity) Note: Meter may jump towards low resistance briefly then return to infinity.
I'm assuming your original capacitor has two wires connected to it. If so, wire the new capacitor to the same locations on the motor using a spade on one side of the plastic line and one spade on the other side of the plastic line.
I see that the original cap was 12.5 uF and the new one is 16 uF. That may be OK, but I'm not sure
Yes I realise the uf I slightly different but I am assured the difference is minor and will be fine. You can go bigger but not smaller. If they are two pairs how do I establish which is positive and which is neutral?
Polarity doesn't matter (because capacitor is seeing ac voltage).
Did you perform the ohm meter tests that I mentioned?
Did you perform the ohm meter tests that I mentioned?
Yes just been and bought a multimeter and like you said both spade each side of the line return 0 ohms when connected together and when connecting either side of the line the reading keeps going up.
Ok fitted the new capacitor 4 hours ago and pump seems to be running ok so fingers crossed has sorted the problem
Great. Let us know if it's still working tomorrow. I have a good feeling that the new capacitor will resolve the problem.