Advice - Algae alive or dead?

[NewHomeowner]

Thanks again, you've got it spot on. Those labels on the pipes are just my notes on which knobs drive which skimmers. They read NEAR, FAR, and BOTTOM drain. That little pipe sticking out of the ground between the 3 returns and the chlorinator has a label that reads "CLEAN-OUT", although, i'm not sure where it goes or what its cleaning out.

Will take your advice on adding the Tee when I close up this year. The balls in the returns are broken as well, and a large reason why I had algae because I couldn't run the pump whilst the pool was drained below the skimmer since they couldn't be closed (only occurred to me afterwards that I could have used a drain plug at the actual skimmers).

Good news is that I finally invested in a robotic vac, so no more vacuuming to the filter. Hayward has a $100 rebate on the Tiger Shark QC (and other ones) for summer 2014 in case anyone is interested. Only thing I'm struggling with is whether it's ok to introduce the vacuum into 30ppm Cl during the current SLAM (again, because I'm having company on Saturday). Other than a few light yellow/green spots lingering on the floor, the water sure is clear!

 

[tucsontico]

The robotic vac shouldn't be hurt by the high FC. But be safe and read the warranty restrictions, etc. Also, when you pull out the robot rinse it with fresh (non-SLAM chlorinated) water.

Ideally you do not swim during the SLAM process, but in reality it is safe to do so ... the active chlorine level will just be a little more harsh on skin/eyes/suits, but still usually lower than the active level found in public non-stabilized pools.

As a note: You shouldn't swim during the SLAM process when the water is green/cloudy and you can not see the bottom of the pool. This is more a drowning concern than it is a chlorine concern.

Keep :calm: and SLAM on!

 

[SunnyOptimism]

CLEAN-OUT might be a pipe for clearing a clogged line or for blowing out lines for winter shutdown. Not sure. Is the cap on it removable?

EDIT

Also, if you replace the ball valves, don't use ball valves again, not appropriate. Purchase proper Jandy never-lube shut off valves to replace them. Ball valves will only break and leak again.

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[NewHomeowner]

Thanks again guys. Will look into the Jandy valves.

I must admit that I'm getting a little frustrated. Although it's only been about 30 hours in, I can't believe that dusty green stuff at the bottom of the pool is still there. I mean, it's not even turning white/grey but the rest of the pool is sparkling clear!! Hopefully, it's not just pollen and I'm wasting my time SLAMing but I can't imagine there's any pollen in the middle of summer. Anyways, it would be everywhere outside the pool as well.

In any event, if it is mustard algae, those are some crazily stubborn chlorine resistant organisms!!

I thank you all for keeping me company and supporting me through this ordeal.

 

[SunnyOptimism]

Yep. SLAM is a process, not a bag of "magic mix" you dump in the pool. It can be very frustrating but only because we're all conditioned to believe that well balanced pool water is instantly possible....it's not. It takes hard work to get it right and then minimal daily care to keep it going well. You'll get there.

Also, in your case, I'd say vacuuming and cleaning your filter is key. Unfortunately your filter is hooked up to that separation tank which goes right back into your pool. You really need a way to vacuum to waste and to backwash your DE filter without sending the water back to your pool.


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[NewHomeowner]

OH MY GOODNESS!!!! The worst thing imaginable just happened!!!!

Went to backwash the DE out of the filter,... and turns out, there's a HOLE in my separation tank bag!!!
All of the old algae laden DE was dumped back into the pool!!!!! I opened the tank and bam,... it was empty. Looked in the pool and I now have a big friggin cloudy mess now!!!!


AAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!! Somebody shoot me now! It was crystal clear just 5 minutes ago!!!

 

[SunnyOptimism]

Duuuuuuuuuuuuuude.......soooooo not cool

You definitely need to re-plumb that stupid separation tank. Very bad design!

Look, if county and city codes don't have anything against DE back washing, then you should re-plumb that part of the piping system with a tee and valves so that you can simply backwash to waste. Then you buy 200ft of backwash hose and simply give the grass a good watering.


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[NewHomeowner]

Ugh,... I appreciate the sympathy @SunnyOptimism.... After this season, i'll definitely be re-plumbing.

In the interim, i'm leaving the pump on and can hopefully get this all cleared before this weekend! I'm thinking about what I might do as an alternative to backwashing to the separation tank (should I need to this week), since I don't have time to get a replacement DE bag before this weekend (they're $200 bucks!!!).

I wonder if I could:

1. leave both the air bleed valve and the drain plug out of the separation tank, keep the valve back to the pool closed and then backwash and let er rip... dirty DE would shoot out of the bottom of the drain plug,... (OR, the high pressure would blow the whole thing up....)
2. technically, the multiport valve on the DE filter has a "waste setting". Since its a "multi port", I wonder if there's an open valve that is currently not plumbed to anything.. will have to check tomorrow, but this might be an option to hook up a backwash hose (though to your point, it optimally should be before the filter).

 

[SunnyOptimism]

2. technically, the multiport valve on the DE filter has a "waste setting". Since its a "multi port", I wonder if there's an open valve that is currently not plumbed to anything.. will have to check tomorrow, but this might be an option to hook up a backwash hose (though to your point, it optimally should be before the filter).

No, no and double-no!!

When you backwash, you absolutely want to drain the backwash water AFTER the filter! That multiport valve, if properly installed and working correctly, is supposed to reroute the flow of water through the filter by reversing the input and output. Essentially bachwashing is running your filter in reverse.

The point of that is to blow off your old DE and any built up crud. That discharge can then go down a storm drain or out to your yard in some inconspicuous spot.

My original post of adding an addition spigot to a point between your pump and filter is so that, during normal operation, you could actually drain off some water if you needed you to do so (like your stabilizer is too high and you need to do a partial drain and fill to dilute your pool water).



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[Richard320]

Your separation tank is plumbed to the waste port of the multivalve.

On waste, water comes from the pool, through the pump, and out the waste port. The filter is bypassed.
On backwash, the water comes from the pool, goes backwards through the grids to blow off all the old DE, and out the waste port.

If you want to discharge onto the lawn or whatever, you'll probably need to cut the pipe and hook a hose to the line that currently goes to that tank.

Is it some kind of code requirement where you live?
I switched to Cellulose in my DE filter. It works just fine and I run my backwash hose out to the front lawn when I backwash. It's refined wood pulp; it's biodegradable. Something to consider.

 

[SunnyOptimism]

Perhaps a top down view of the multiport would be helpful in seeing how your filter is setup.

Richard,

Thanks for the clarity. I have a plunger style valve on my DE filter so as to be designed dummy-proof for dummies like me And thanks for the cellulose fiber pro-tip!


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[NewHomeowner]

Btw, got through the weekend all right, and wanted to give a great big THANKS to all the folks on this board. My water has never looked better! I'm so happy that i'm now in control of my pool thanks to the great education given on this site and all the contributing members who make it possible.

Thank you!