OK - Here's what I got...

[RB03]

Hey All - I've been reading this forum since I built and opened my pool last year. I've been following the tips listed on this website (Thank you by the way), but I'm obviously doing something wrong and figured it was time to register and get involved...

I have an approx. 22,000 pebble pool with a SWG. Last summer was great as all my home testing came back good and the pool water was clear and looking good. This summer season things have changed. My Chlorine levels have been consistently low and I seem to have the start of a long, rewarding relationship with algae. Today I brushed the pool and it looked as if I was brushing green dirt off the walls. So I took a water sample into my local big named pool supply house and had my pool water tested. Here are their results:

FC 1
TC 2
Salt 3400
Calcium Hardness 320
CYA 100
TA 70
pH 7.4
Phosphates 2500

So - I have read the posts related to SLAMing your pool as well as the topics on Phosphates (Good vs Bad). I feel I have a few issues - the Salt and CYA seem high for my pool and my chlorine level is constantly low. My SWG runs 10 hours a day at 100%. The employee at the pool store says I need to take care of the Phosphate level by adding their magic phosphate be gone and that will cure both the algae and FC problem. He even took a sample of my water and mixed in a few granules of their sanitizer and wha-la - my chlorine levels spiked to the correct color on the test chart. I agree with this website's view on FC and plan to take the steps to correct the algae via SLAMing. I would like to SLAM the pool to take care of the algae and keep the FC at a higher stable level but my concern is with the salt / CYA levels. Do I need to do a partial drain to lower these levels? I do not want to start the process if my water is not ready.

So I'm looking for some help - I have about 8 bottle of liquid chlorine ready to start tonight if the SLAMing process is the right direction. Otherwise what would my first step be? Thank you in advance for any help.

RB

 

[JohnT]

Welcome to TFP!

What SWCG do you have?

Dilute your pool water sample 50-50 with tap water and test your CYA again, doubling the result. The test only reads to 100ppm, and higher levels may test at 100ppm too. This will give you an indication of where you are.

Odds are SLAMing the pool will cure your low chlorine problem.

 

[RB03]

Thanks for the quick reply John - I don't have a way to test the CYA here at my house, but if it helps I took my water sample to two different stores today. One said 100, the second said closer to 120. Honestly it seems like both stores read the tests and add opinion...

For the SWG I use the Pentair Intellichlor. The system is no more than a year old. I just recently cleaned both the SWG and the filter cartridges. One thing I forgot to mention is I also use the 3" floating tablets as recommended by the pool store. I mention this because I know it will slowly raise the CYA levels.

 

[Charlie_R]

John, I'm not sure the "big name pool store" would do that for him.

RB, It would be to your advantage to purchase your own accurate test kit. Pool store testing is notorious for being off by quite a margin, especially the CYA test. Check out http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/124-pool-test-kits-comparison

It would also help you to read in Pool School a few articles:

http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/123-abc-of-pool-water-chemistry

http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/128-chlorine-cya-chart-slam-shock

http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/142-how-to-chlorinate-your-pool

The test kits can be bought from http://TFtestkits.net

And Welcome to TFP!

 

[JohnT]

Thanks for the quick reply John - I don't have a way to test the CYA here at my house, but if it helps I took my water sample to two different stores today. One said 100, the second said closer to 120. Honestly it seems like both stores read the tests and add opinion...

For the SWG I use the Pentair Intellichlor. The system is no more than a year old. I just recently cleaned both the SWG and the filter cartridges. One thing I forgot to mention is I also use the 3" floating tablets as recommended by the pool store. I mention this because I know it will slowly raise the CYA levels.

Which Intellichlor? There are about 4 models with different capacities.

3400ppm salt is exactly what Pentair recommends, so you don't want to lower that.

The tablets raise CYA fairly quickly. There is no reason you should need them with a SWCG in your pool.

 

[whalers11]

Are you sure your SWG is working?

 

[Casey]

RB, Welcome!
Lets start off with a test kit like the TF100. You can look at the comparison here: Test Kit Comparison

Then, I would like you to read:

ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry
Recommended Pool Chemicals
How to Chlorinate Your Pool
Chlorine CYA Chart

These articles will help you understand your pool water chemistry. Any questions, ask and once you get your test kit, we can start SLAM'ing the pool.

 

[kimkats]

You are SO on the right track! Finding TFP and asking questions!

We can and will help you. Just look at the above posts to get you started on what you need!

WELCOME!!

Kim

 

[RB03]

JohnT - I have the IC40 for my SWG. And the reason I am using the tabs is to help add FC into the pool since it has been consistently low. Which is why I think something is off.

Whalers - my SWG is working - all the lights are green, no error codes and it has recently been cleaned.

Thanks to the rest for the comments - I have been through the website prior to today and have read the pool school articles which is where I have learned the most regarding the care for my pool. I feel as though I understand the basics, but obviously I am missing something since my levels are a little off kilter.

Any advice or steps to take would be helpful. I do agree - a REAL test kit would absolutely help as far as getting more info onto this thread so you guys can help out. While waiting for the test kit - should I simply add some liquid chlorine to stabilize the algae until it arrives and we can get a good read?

Thank you again!!

 

[Casey]

Personally, I would hold off on adding anything til you get the kit and can get an accurate CYA reading and do a partial drain/refill as your CYA is too high. That is your first move.

 

[JohnN]

You're on the west coast, so you would be better off ordering the test kit from the other site that sells them. I can't remember it off the top of my head, but someone else here will remember it. If not, I'll find the west coast distributor of the TF-100 and post it for you.
EDIT: The west coast distributor is poolsupplyworld.com.