Help needed with pool chemistry
- Thread starter richardmac64
- Start date
I think that means you have no or very low CC if the test did not change. Clearly something is amiss with your FAS-DPD test.
Try doing an FC and CC test on your tap water to see what that shows.
Has your Cyanuric acid level been consistent, or has it dropped recently?
Something doesn't seem right with your pH being so low with a SWG and a TA of 110. The pH would tend to rise with that combination, unless something acidic was added. Do you know why the pH is low?
Does the water smell, or have foam?
Have you added anything to kill algae? Perhaps algaecide, copper, Yellow-out, or anything else?
Does the liquid chlorine look and smell like it should? It should be clear yellow with almost no smell. If it is dark, cloudy or smelly, it might be bad.
Note: Don't intentionally smell liquid chlorine, bleach or any other chlorine source.
Has your Cyanuric acid level been consistent, or has it dropped recently?
Something doesn't seem right with your pH being so low with a SWG and a TA of 110. The pH would tend to rise with that combination, unless something acidic was added. Do you know why the pH is low?
Does the water smell, or have foam?
Have you added anything to kill algae? Perhaps algaecide, copper, Yellow-out, or anything else?
Does the liquid chlorine look and smell like it should? It should be clear yellow with almost no smell. If it is dark, cloudy or smelly, it might be bad.
Note: Don't intentionally smell liquid chlorine, bleach or any other chlorine source.
Tested the tap water
OTO stayed clear
FAS-DPD stayed clear as well after adding the powder agent.
I'll do the OCLT tonight, forget to turn off the SWG.
Liquid chlorine looks yellow and has no smell.
Nothing added for algea. (i've never had any visible algea)
I did add 5.25 lbs. of stabilizer back in May/June as the CYA was almost 0. I've always had problems keeping the CYA at a consistent level.
I did add something for phosphates a few weeks back as well. Pool start said phosphates were over 1000+.
I do use well water to fill the pool as needed (no water softener).
I'm beginning to think draining would be the simplist solution.
OTO stayed clear
FAS-DPD stayed clear as well after adding the powder agent.
I'll do the OCLT tonight, forget to turn off the SWG.
Liquid chlorine looks yellow and has no smell.
Nothing added for algea. (i've never had any visible algea)
I did add 5.25 lbs. of stabilizer back in May/June as the CYA was almost 0. I've always had problems keeping the CYA at a consistent level.
I did add something for phosphates a few weeks back as well. Pool start said phosphates were over 1000+.
I do use well water to fill the pool as needed (no water softener).
I'm beginning to think draining would be the simplist solution.
Did you test the pH again? Chemicals may react unexpectedly when pH is very low. If pH is still reading 6.8 raise it to 7.0. You may need to do this a couple of times before it rises to 7.0, since it could be lower than the 6.8 on the test.
Did all tests again, pool water and tap water.
Pool
FC=22
CC=56
PH=7.2
TA=110
CYA=70
CH=425
Tap water
FC=0
CC=0
PH=8.2
TA=420
CH=50
CYA=0
Pool
FC=22
CC=56
PH=7.2
TA=110
CYA=70
CH=425
Tap water
FC=0
CC=0
PH=8.2
TA=420
CH=50
CYA=0
With mixed answers about the hi level of CC. I decided to just leave the cover open all day on the pool and let the FC level drop.
Just got thru testing and here is what I have now.
FC = 4
CC = 30
So I went from 22 to 4 in FC today. SWG has been off all day as well. The water is clear now though I can see the bottom.
Just got thru testing and here is what I have now.
FC = 4
CC = 30
So I went from 22 to 4 in FC today. SWG has been off all day as well. The water is clear now though I can see the bottom.
OCLT results
FC = 4
CC = 29
So what does this mean? No FC loss, but still have CC???
FC = 4
CC = 29
So what does this mean? No FC loss, but still have CC???
I would suggest doing a partial drain and refill. Leave at least twelve inches in the shallow end. After refill, follow through with a full Slam. You should be able to get resolution without doing a partial drain and refill, so you don't need to do it, but it would help.
Note: Don't drain below the local water table. Don't leave plaster exposed in direct sunlight.
Note: Don't drain below the local water table. Don't leave plaster exposed in direct sunlight.
I would also drain and refill like JamesW suggest. It will take a large amount of time and bleach to clear up the CC issue.
pool update - water is clear and CC is 0 now. Only took 24 gallons of chlorine (10% strength) and about 2 weeks. Chlorine level is slowly dropping back to normal levels.
Now to just keep in under control.
Thanks to everyone for your time and suggestions.
Now to just keep in under control.
Thanks to everyone for your time and suggestions.