Starting over, plan of attack?

Hi all, I got fed up with watching my pool water get harder and harder to see through, plus I've added so many things to it that I decided to drain and refill. Quick synopsis of what I'm facing (and trying to avoid):

1 - on well water with LOTS of iron (adding CL turned water "sewage brown" last time around, needed AA)
2 - water goes through oxygen injector, then iron filter, then water softener then goes to pool so takes 3-4 days or so to fill the pool
3 - I'll get a test kit for next year but only a few weeks left in the swimming season here to I'm getting by on test strips for now, but before adding anything the water has approx PH 7.8 and TA >240. I'm assuming this is because of the oxygen injection and will go higher still before the pool is finished filling.

Here's my tentative plan of attack once the pool is full, any and all suggestions are most welcome:

1 - add metal sequestrant per bottle instructions - Aquacheck (?) stain preventer
2 - slowly and carefully add bleach until I test about 3ppm FC, watching to make sure the water doesn't turn brown on me.
3 - put CYA in a nylon stocking and hang near water return. Pool calculator says to add 847g to get to CYA 40, so I was thinking I'd do 400g or so and test in a week, then add more as required?
4 - once the CYA is to 40, slowly bring FC to 7ppm.
5 - Add PH down as required to reduce ph and TA.
6 - be sure to add weekly maint doses of sequestrant.

Some questions. Should I start on the above right away? The pool is nearly half full and will probably take another day or two to finish filling; I'm worried about algae starting in before then. Also, do I need to leave any significant gaps of time between the first 3 steps? Finally, is that obscenely high TA a serious enough issue to warrant adding the ph down before I'm satisfied my FC and CYA levels are good?

Does anyone see any gotcha's that I should watch out for? Have I got the steps in the right order?

My kids had a total blast for the brief time the pool was usable on my first try - with only a few weeks left for swimming, I really want to get this right for them. They were devastated when they came outside and saw me draining it :cry:

Two other quick facts: First, the pool is in full sun nearly all day long. Second, we're on an operating ranch in the middle of nowhere with over 20 horses, previous owners had cattle so lots of manure (not near pool though) which means lots of flies, etc. The stock tanks (water for horses) gets algae pretty darn quick if not changed regularly, as well as occasional wiggly swimming things, greyish scum on the bottom/sides, etc. Which is why I'm aiming for a high FC :)

Man I do seem to have an affinity for rambling posts - I really meant to make this brief and concise! Thanks in advance for any input :)
 
Sounds like a reasonable plan to me.

Did you already purchase the PH Down? I ask because Muratic Acid would be cheaper and probably work better....and you can do the PH / TA lowering while this is going on, just never add chems simultaneously, always wait an hour or so between the various chems, remember to leave the filter running. Adding chlorine raises your PH so it's a good idea to go ahead and tackle these items while you are keeping an eye on your main issue, metals and preventing algae. You could try, and it's up to you - may not be necessary, putting in Polyquat 60, a good algaecide. Not just any ole algaecide, but Polyquat 60.

You can start right away, if you can run your filter be sure you have a good way to circulate the water, via stirring some how.

Remember to read up on Lowering TA, the article in Pool School.

Good luck!
 
Yes, I do already have some PH down on hand, but probably not enough to do the whole job. Where can I get muriatic acid? I re-read the BBB article in pool school and the reducint TA article - I thought I saw a reference to where to find muriatic acid somewhere in the past but can't recall where.

Walked outside this morning and got a pleasant surprise - the pool is nearly full. Last time I only filled during daylight as I run the water through 400+ feet of black rubber hose coiled on the tin roof of my barn's lean-to to help raise the starting temp of the pool. But, this time I filled continuously to speed things up - I'll just throw the kids in when the water balance is right and let all those warm soft bodies bring the temp up before I get in :shock: 8)

Thanks for the swift response poolmom, knowing someone knowledgeable has reviewed my plan helps ease my worry that I'll mess this up a second time in a row.

Thanks!
 
Loews, ACE, Home Depot, Pool store....check with employees if you can't find, sometimes in Paint dept., sometimes by concrete, sometimes in pool depts., just have to check/look around.

Ingore comments like "you wanna put that in your pool?" it's perfectly fine to use in your pool :) use goggles or sunglasses to protect your eyes and don't breath in the fumes.
 
WHAAAAAAAAAAAH!!!! SEWAGE BROWN water again!!!!!!! :cry:

Everything seemed to be going so well! My water was really nice and clear. I put LOTS of sequestrant in. My first sock of CYA had nearly fully dissolved. I'd been maintaining a FC 3 no problems (it freaked me a bit to see a light brown "wave front" when pouring in the bleach but it cleared quickly). Before I got a chance to add any acid my PH seemed to drop down to 7 or so on it's own, so I started aerating to bring it up in preperation for adding acid to bring the TA down.

Yesterday I brought the FC to 7 or so in the afternoon. Last night, pool looked fine but FC had dropped again so I added more 6%.. maybe too much? Also left the aeration process going. This morning, I found my PH was up to 7.8, FC 5 and the pool was disgusting brown color, and staining surfaces brown. :rant:

I've read here that high FC and high PH can combine to cause metal staining, so I'm thinking I let the PH get too high? I didn't mean to let it go that far, it just kinda jumped up overnight on me.

This is *really* upsetting. At this point, I'm pretty much limited to whatever chemicals I have on hand or can get locally - ordering anything from the states takes a good week plus and my swimming season is only another 2-3 weeks long. Which means I can't order pure ascorbic acid online, and I'm not making the mistake I made last time - I just dumped the purest vitamin C tablets I could find in, but they still had non-medicinal ingredients (like corn starch) that gummed up my filter something awful. I'm assuming AA treatment is the correct next step?

Here's what I have on hand: muriatic acid, ph down powder, floculant, algeacide, CYA powder, bleach, borax, baking soda.

The metal sequestrant used was Aquarius stain prevent. Directions called for initial dose of 300ml. Knowing I have super high iron content, I added the whole bottle (1000ml) in two seperate doses a few hours apart before I added anything else to the water. Just now, I dumped a whole bottle again into it - seemed to briefly clear a path to see the bottom of the pool but only right around where I added it.

Should I add muriatic acid to force my ph and TA down?

Alternately, can somebody just come up here and drown me in this stupid pool and put me out of my misery? Just kidding... :(
 
I put a full bottle (900ml) of muriatic acid in a few hours ago; I just got home from running some errands in town and will check the ph shortly. However, I did find a health food store that had crystalized vitamin c powder - kinda pricey in the little 125g bottles but I bought 4 of them so I'll do the AA treatment.

Given how much sequestrant there was in the water, I'm wondering if either the brand I used is not doing the job, or my iron is just so high that I can never shock the pool. Hopefully I can maintain usable water for the rest of this season. Next spring I'm ordering some Jacks pink, a proper test kit, and some AA just in case to have on hand for opening the pool.

Sigh. Country living at it's best. Oh give me a home, where the buffalo roam... :hammer:

Peter
 
Peter,

I've stayed out of this thread but have followed it.

Here's food for thought.......Get a price on trucking in good water....it may be w-a-a-ay too high but it would surely make your life simple (and your pool clear) if you can tolerate the intial cost.

As I'm sure you know, the iron never comes out of your water. You simply fight it (spend money) until it finally exhausts you.

Do you have a pond?
 
I could possibly truck in municipal water from a nearby town, but I'm not convinced it would be much better. There are no pool stores closer than a 2 hr drive to Regina (which presumably would have at least one) so I don't have a way to test the iron content of any water that I would get trucked in... unless the local culligan dealer could tell me... hmmm.

I do have a pond, and a couple dugouts for watering livestock. Why do you ask? I would think that water would be just as bad, plus it would have all kinds of other yucky stuff.

However, I'm happy to report that my AA treatment went perfectly - the water looks better than it did before it turned brown. I've got the FC back up to 5-7 or so, and with the ph down at 7.2 it's staying nice and clear :-D

Hey quick question about your test kits - do you have to color match or does it involve counting drops or something us non-artistic people can manage? I have to get my 6yr old artsy daughter to help me decide the levels when using test strips... hehehe.

Peter
 
ShalomRanch said:
Hey quick question about your test kits - do you have to color match or does it involve counting drops or something us non-artistic people can manage? I have to get my 6yr old artsy daughter to help me decide the levels when using test strips... hehehe.

Peter

The FAS-DPD is counting drops, so is the TA and CH test. The PH and OTO chlorine test are color comparators. She can help you with the PH, the others will be easier for you. ITs a great kit....
 

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Hello everyone
I was just thinking that maybe keeping the cya a bit lower than normal would help, because then the CL levels could be kept lower as well
I'd been maintaining a FC 3 no problems
i know that means paying more attention to CL levels more often, but could be worth the hassle :idea: :?:

Happy swims
Frank
 
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