New Aquapure 1400

[Omnipotent]

Just turned on today, everything seems straight forward except one thing PB stated, he said to shock the pool every 2 weeks.....he said to do this with the Aquapure (has a button to slam) and it runs at 100% for 24 hours.

Read pool school and quickly searched forum and didn't see anything on this. I'm guessing I don't need to do this but just checking.

Thanks

 

[JasonLion]

No, there is no reason to do that. You want to SLAM the pool when you are having a problem, for example get algae, but otherwise just maintain the recommended levels and you should be fine.

 

[Omnipotent]

That's what I thought. Thanks

 

[Xexys]

Just turned on today, everything seems straight forward except one thing PB stated, he said to shock the pool every 2 weeks.....he said to do this with the Aquapure (has a button to slam) and it runs at 100% for 24 hours.

Read pool school and quickly searched forum and didn't see anything on this. I'm guessing I don't need to do this but just checking.

Thanks

He may be talking about "boost" which when you press the button the cell goes to 100% for 24 hours or until turned off. But then again, in the manual it says to shock the pool every other week. So which is true?(don't ever leave cell on when adding chemicals, shut it off). Don't need to do either. That manual was written quite a while ago and things have changed in the pool world. Stick around and read till your eyes hurt, then read some more. Lots of good stuff on these pages for one to decipher the correct way to get it done. Small pool? Big pool? It doesn't matter, this site does them all.

Dialing in your new Aquapure 1400 will take some time. Mine has taken me a month and a half but I use a week's worth of tests between tweaking. Do it right and you will be able to sell the shock back to the pool stores as it will not be necessary. Get your ducks in a row with your chemicals...TA should be 70-90; try to keep PH in the range of 7.4-7.8; CYA keep from 60-80; FC right around 5 ppm; CH low 300's, maybe 325 like mine; Salt between 3,000-3500, 3,400 is ideal. Follow this and your Saturation Index should fall in the balance range of -0.20 or less.

I'm running my new cell at 60% right now and I'm still producing more chlorine than I need nor want, 8 ppm. Next comes pump time, going to start with an hour less and then check chemicals to see what's going on. I feel that this will be the deciding factor. Wife wants me to do an hour less and I want to go 45 minutes less. We all know how this is going to turn out so I guess I'll keep you from the suspense and just do the hour.

Keep your chemicals balanced (especially your PH) and your pumps and cell will run longer and will require less maintenance.

 

[wayner]

I am having trouble with my Aquapure 1400 this year but in previous years I got the salt and CYA levels right a week or two after opening my pool and then didn't or need to add any chemicals all year. Maybe this is not recommended here but it was totally easy and essentially maintenance free. I would check chlorine occasionally win test strips but assuming that the SWCG was working all was good.

 

[Omnipotent]

I was talking about the boost button, but I don't plan on using it unless something really goes south. So far everything is good, but now time to dial in run time vs rpm on pump (VS) so little tweaks until it's going well.

 

[ping]

The rpm on the pump should not matter as long as it is high enough to provide enough flow for the SWG to operate. Having a high flow as compared to a low flow does not effect how much chlorine is produced. What matters is the pump on time and the SWG output %. The Aquapure does have a higher flow requirement than some of the other SWGs so make sure you are providing it enough flow.