Current SLAM, done or keep going?

Jun 6, 2013
129
South Florida
I had algae start developing, despite religiously maintaining FC well above my minimum. I have been slamming for 5 days now. Water is crystal clear, OCLT passed last night.

However, my CC keeps testing at 1

MY CYA is 50, I have had FC at 25-30 for 5 days continuously. Should I keep maintaining the SLAM until CC is 0?
 
The SLAM is over when:

You pass an OCLT (ie overnight FC loss test shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less) Pass
The water is clear Pass
CC is 0.5 or lower Fail

Keep up the SLAM


When all three are true, you are done SLAMing and can allow the FC to drift down to normal levels.
 
Sounds good. Admittedly, in the past, I have quit slamming after water was clear and I passed OCLT. I have had algae recur, usually within 3-4 weeks. I will keep slamming until CC is .5 or lower. Hopefully, this will be the last time I have to go through this process.
 
Buzzard, may I ask what test kit you are using and are you confident your CYA level is 50 ?
If your maintaing proper FC levels for your CYA level and not letting your FC fall below its min you shouldn't be having algae outbreaks. ?
 
Using a K-2006, have been for over a year. I have tested CYA dozens and dozens of times and the result is the same. I am an engineer, and very technical person. Perhaps I should order the 50ppm standard just for comparison's sake.

For the past year, I have been manually dosing liquid chlorine. About a month ago, I installed a swg. I can maintain FC at 10+ and I still eventually get algae in the pool. Starts out really really light on the walls in a few small areas. No matter how well I maintain FC, it eventually comes back. Never ending process of slam, maintain FC for 4-5 weeks, notice algae when brushing, slam again.
 
Since the SWG install how often are you testing FC levels ? Also with an SWG your CYA level should be a bit higher. 70-80 is what we recommend. The higher CYA level will protect your FC better as the SWG produces chlorine slower over a longer period of time.
If you could add all your pool, equipment and location info to your sig that will help us better help you.
 
I have tested CYA dozens and dozens of times and the result is the same
There is really no point in testing CYA much more than about 3 times each summer unless you suspect there were some variables that would change your results. Why are you constantly testing a parameter that really doesn't vary?
 

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Getting a little curious as to what's going on. I'm passing OCLT every night, and pool is crystal clear. In the morning CC is .5 or less. In the evening, CC seems to be 1. I have not let FC drop below 25 for 8 days now. My R-0003 reagent is over a year old. Could it be causing any false color changes in the CC test? Or am I fighting a long battle with something in the water?
 
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I would move the test kit indoors where the air is more controlled. I keep mine on a shelf under the kitchen sink but right now, it's currently on the basement toilet beside the bleach. :shock: :mrgreen:
 
I'm starting to get frustrated. This is day 9. Pool has been clear since day 3. Just got home from work and FC tested at 25. CC shows 1.

Interestingly, for the past year, I have always had 0 CC, even when light algae was in the water. Now, after 9 days of slamming and perfect looking water, I am getting CC readings every time I test.
 
Have you been brushing ? If you have a light check the niche. Algae will sometimes hide out in it. Check ladder if you have one. Any where algae cold hide out.

I brush every day. Light was out for 3 days, clean behind it. I put the light back in place last night. Ladder is formed into the plaster in the deep end, no metal ladder in the water. Visually, there is literally no place for the algae to be hiding. It could be in the plumbing, but what are the chances. I had the pipes open the replumb the filter and add the swg, insides of the pipes were clean.

I did read this on Taylor's website:

" When monopersulfate is present in the sample, it reacts with DPD #3 in the total chlorine test, producing a dark pink/red color characteristic of a high total chlorine reading. However, monopersulfate will not react with the DPD #1 and #2 reagents used to measure free chlorine. Therefore, the combined chlorine level obtained doing the calculation above is artificially high.

In an FAS-DPD drop-count titration, you add DPD indicator powder to the water sample and it will turn pink if free chlorine is present. Next you add FAS-DPD titrating reagent drop by drop until the sample changes from pink to colorless. You then multiply the number of drops added by an equivalence factor (stated in the test instructions) to get the free chlorine reading. Finally, you add DPD #3 reagent to the treated sample, which will turn pink if combined chlorine is present. Once again, you titrate until the sample turns colorless and multiply the drop count by the given equivalence factor to get the combined chlorine reading. If monopersulfate is present in the sample it will react with DPD #3, artificially increasing the combined chlorine reading.
"

I bought the house a little over a year ago, and do not know what the previous pool guy was using to take care of the pool. Although, like I said, I have never had a problem with CC for the past year I have been maintaining the pool.
 
I looked at the filter today, and it looks clean as a whistle. Water looks perfect. Yet, CC just tested at 2.5!? It is now going up...

My pH tends to rise after a week or so. After 10 days, I am starting to wonder if I should just let the FC drop down again and re-check my pH.
 

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