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Thread: Struggling same prob for years.

  1. Back To Top    #1

    Join Date
    Jul 2014

    Struggling same prob for years.

    Greetings. New to forum.
    I have a long standing algae problem.
    25000 gal. Vinyl liner. Fiber clear filter 48sqft. Ph always fine 7.5 to 7.8. Pump on 24/7.Live in central jersey. Maintain alk at 7 to 10. Use liquid chlorine and tablets.
    I cant stay ahead of algae. When I use algicides, fiber clead clogs even faster. But I cant get more than a week to 10 days before Im opening the pump and cleaning the fingers. I can then superchlorinate. The pool clears, but i can nevdr maintain a chlor level.
    Years ago with de and tablets it was cleaner, but i waS still clogging oftrn so i switched to fiber clear to protect my lungs and so i could backflush down a sewer.
    Please advise. Thanks

  2. Back To Top    #2
    TFP Guide
    PAGirl's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Central PA

    Re: Struggling same prob for years.

    Read Pool School. Buy a reliable test kit. Read Pool School again. You need to SLAM your pool, then maintain a consistent chlorine level. You might have a high CYA level.
    26' X 52" Intex Ultra Frame. Intex Sand Filter
    26' X 52 Intex Ultra Frame Install
    You can lead a horse to (clear) water, but you can't force him to swim in it!

  3. Back To Top    #3
    Butterfly's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    South Carolina

    Re: Struggling same prob for years.

    I have a long standing algae problem.
    We can help you get rid of that algae for good!

    What test kit are you using? You need to invest in one of the Recommended Test Kits:
    The fav kit around here is the TF100. More bang for the buck, 18mo. warranty, A-1 Service, fast shipping. I suggest you get the XL option since you will need to SLAM the pool. Link in my sig.

    ......and then follow the SLAM Process

    This may seem a little overwhelming at first, but it will soon be smooth sailing when you are in control of your pool.

    Welcome to the forum
    TFP Moderator TF100 Test Kit TF100 TestKit YouTube Channel PoolMath
    You're done SLAMing when:
    1)You lose 1ppm or less FC overnight, & 2)You have .5ppm CC's or less, & 3)your water is clear.

    ~ One should not use a sledge hammer to swat a mosquito. ~

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  4. Back To Top    #4
    Mod Squad tim5055's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Columbia, SC

    Re: Struggling same prob for years.

    As PAGirl & Butterfly have pointed out you surly have a continual algae problem. It has also been pointed out you need to SLAM your pool.

    This is different from what pool stores tell you, (one or two times of shock/super-chlorination) in that the high level of chlorinating liquid is maintained until we know the algae is gone. How do we know it's gone? We test with a kit we know will work. We do it ourselves with accurate kits, not guess the color kits or pool store testing. If you read around here you will see that not much credence is given to pool store testing. While you would think that a "professional" would be the best, unfortunately in most cases it is quite the opposite. Between employees who blindly trust the word of chemical sales representatives and high school kids working in the pool store for the summer you end up with poor results from their testing.

    So, if you want to take control of your pool the first thing you need to do is order one of the recommended test kits. To effectively practice the TFPC methods, the FAS/DPD chlorine test is essential. All the kits on the list contain that test while very few other kits do. The kits sold at the pool store generally won't won't cut it, but be careful pool store employees are known to say “it's the same thing”. Generally it's not!

    The second thing you need to do is feed chlorine to the pool until you get your kit. One or two gallons a day. It won't clear your pool, but it may hold back a full bloom until you can start the work of clearing it.

    Third, you need to be reading the Pool School link at the top of every page. It is a great community here, but we do ask that you read and try to understand the information being taught. We want you to understand what is going on in your water, not "trust" others to tell you what to do. Questions are always welcome and folks will try to direct you and teach you the methods.

    Forth, it would help us if you would add the following information to your signature so we see it on each post rather than having to scroll up to your first post

    • The size of your pool in gallons
    • If your pool is an AG (above ground) or IG (in ground)
    • If it's IG, tell us if it's vinyl, plaster/pebble, or fiberglass
    • The type of filter you have (sand, DE, cartridge) and, if you know, the brand and model of the filter.
    • If you know, please tell us the brand and model of the pump, and mention if is it a two speed or variable speed pump.
    • Date of pool build/install, particularly important if less then a year old.
    • What kind/model of water test kit you are using
    • Other significant accessories or options, such as a spa , SWG, or cleaner
    TFP Moderator 39 X 18 23,000(ish) freeform gunite; built 2007ish; Pentair Triton II TR100 600lb Sand filter; 2 HP Pentair pump with 2.2 HP AO Smith single speed motor; 2 skimmers, 1 main drain, 4 returns w/waterfall, Stenner 45MHP2 3GPD running@ 60% - 15 gal Tank; heated by the sun CYA 200+ when I started - 50 now. Dolphin Supreme M5 Pool Cleaner. Hot Springs SX Spa, 285 gallon

  5. Back To Top    #5

    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    San Rafael, CA USA

    Re: Struggling same prob for years.

    Welcome to TFP!
    16,000 gallon outdoor in-ground 16'x32' plaster pool; Pentair Intelliflo VF pump; Pentair IntelliTouch i9+3s control system; Jandy CL-340 square foot cartridge filter
    12 Fafco solar panels; Purex Triton PowerMax 250 natural gas heater (200,000 BTU/hr output); automatic electric pool safety cover; 4-wheel pressure-side "The Pool Cleaner"

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