The leslies's kits are rebranded Taylor kits. The kit in question is a rebranded Taylor K-2006. Just goes to show how clueless Leslies's employee's are!Archos said:
SWG Startup with Algae?
- Thread starter Archos
- Start date
Slight progress. The pool is a slight bluish color rather than emerald green. The water is still extremely cloudy.
My TF100 test kit will be arriving at my house Thursday. I've ran out of CYA reagent, so I can't test that anymore, however I've only backwashed a couple of times since running out. I'm guessing my CYA is still close to 80. I know I'm killing lots of algae, when I backwashed the water was full of dead algae. The chlorine level got down to 5ppm, so I added 5.5 gallons of bleach that Jason's calculator said would take me up to 30.
Something interesting, my Ph dropped to from 7.6 to 7.2 but my TA stayed at 180. I don't think I've had that happen to me since having the pool.
My water is blue and cloudy, when does it start to clear or what do I need to do to clear it up?
My TF100 test kit will be arriving at my house Thursday. I've ran out of CYA reagent, so I can't test that anymore, however I've only backwashed a couple of times since running out. I'm guessing my CYA is still close to 80. I know I'm killing lots of algae, when I backwashed the water was full of dead algae. The chlorine level got down to 5ppm, so I added 5.5 gallons of bleach that Jason's calculator said would take me up to 30.
Something interesting, my Ph dropped to from 7.6 to 7.2 but my TA stayed at 180. I don't think I've had that happen to me since having the pool.
My water is blue and cloudy, when does it start to clear or what do I need to do to clear it up?
Archos said:
Good Morning!
It will start to clear once you have your test kit.
Seriously, you'll see a difference once you can test for everything yourself and know just how much of this and that to add, etc. The fact that you see a definite color change is good sign and means you already made good progress. As for the cloudiness, it could take a week or less or more, it really depends on the pool and every pool is different.
Just keep shocking, brushing and filtering (filter 24/7) and cleaning your filter until it clears.
You used PH Down to lower the PH/TA, correct? I re-read the posts, and it looks like your PH was up and your TA was above 200. So adding the PH down, you lowered them both a bit....right? Did you ever succeed in getting Muratic Acid? Were you trying to lower them again, and went from 7.6 to 7.2, no change to the TA, or did you just retest and saw a change in the PH?
Your 7.2 PH is probably accurate if you tested the water when the FC was 5. At FC higher than 10, PH readings can read higher than they actually are, once the FC drops to normal levels is the best time to get an accurate read. Hope this makes sense.
So you're doing great, keep pluggin' away!
You're right, I wasn't even thinking that my PH should drop when the chlorine came down from what I had it at. My kit gets here tomorrow and I'm sort of excited to know what my numbers are.
I found muriatic acid at the Ace Hardware in Newburgh in the Apple Center. It was $5.99 a gallon, so next time I'm headed to Rural King I'll get it there. (In case there are any fellow Southern Indiana Folks having the same problem I had)
I found muriatic acid at the Ace Hardware in Newburgh in the Apple Center. It was $5.99 a gallon, so next time I'm headed to Rural King I'll get it there. (In case there are any fellow Southern Indiana Folks having the same problem I had)
I got my kit today! My pool is blue but extremely cloudy. My pool is still coming down off the last shocking from a couple of days ago. Here are my numbers:
FC: 15
CC: .5
Ph: 7.2
TA: 170
CH: 240
CYA: 75
I know for a fact I did the CC test right. I re-read the directions several times to make sure because I couldn't believe one drop changed the water back.
FC: 15
CC: .5
Ph: 7.2
TA: 170
CH: 240
CYA: 75
I know for a fact I did the CC test right. I re-read the directions several times to make sure because I couldn't believe one drop changed the water back.
Archos said:
Wasn't it fun!
Shock for one more night. You really need to be certain that your algae is dead. The three criteria to determine if you are done shocking are:
You lose less than 1ppm of FC overnight
Your CC are .5 or less
your water is clear.
You only meet one of these, so keep shocking and do the overnight test, keep brushing and filtering 24/7 till it clears.
While you are doing this, you can continue to lower the TA (MA and aeration to raise PH) to bring your water into the recommended levels for an SWG and then you'll be able to add salt and get your SWG going.... Your CYA is fine now for an SWG, double check your manufacturers warranty for their recommendation for CYA levels.
Keep it up! Youre doing great....
The salt is in and dissolving. I hope all the little bubbles on the surface of the water is normal because my pool looks like a giant vat of bluish beer.
I'm still not 100% clear, so I'm going to take a reading of my FC, CC, PH, TA, and Salt then see what I need to do to get it back up to shock levels.
Will the salt change anything regarding manually shocking the pool with 6% bleach other than adding a bit of salt?
I am getting excited at the thought of turning the Aquatrol on. I'd like to get some pictures of all of it up and running.
I'm still not 100% clear, so I'm going to take a reading of my FC, CC, PH, TA, and Salt then see what I need to do to get it back up to shock levels.
Will the salt change anything regarding manually shocking the pool with 6% bleach other than adding a bit of salt?
I am getting excited at the thought of turning the Aquatrol on. I'd like to get some pictures of all of it up and running.
