Pool turning light green

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R

[email protected]

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Jun 14, 2014
6
Louisivlle, KY
After countless trips to pool store for chemicals and for suggestions that did not help my pool or my wallet A friend of mine, whom is registered user on this site (IWilk), introduced me to the TF-100 and helped me get my pool lined back out from being overcome by algae. Took me nearly 2 weeks but all was good. Returned the kit to friend and continued to add chlorine at the recommended level that had stayed true for 5 days straight. I Just opened my new TF-100 kit that I just had to order. Ready to get this pool back to new and usable. 2 days ago water began to turn greenish again.

Added 22 oz 31.45% Muratic acid to lower Ph. It was at 8.2 yesterday evening.
1 hour later added 52 oz 8.25% bleach

Here are my test results as of today
FC = 1
CC = .5
TA = 90
PH = 7.8
CYA = 20 I guess (dot disappears for split second but reappears when I stopped adding solution) *repeated test several times with same results

Are my numbers okay to continue for the slamming process? I'm still in process of adding more muriatic acid to get PH down to 7.5. Pool calculator says add 10 oz muriatic acid.
Should I not worry on the chlorine level where as I add no more till I get the PH right? I read that that the PH testing levels would be inaccurate once the slamming process is started.

Thanks,
Redford
 
Did the measure the FC value 1 hour after adding the bleach?

It's important to know if you even achieved SLAM levels of FC. PoolMath is going to tell you what the theoretical algae-free water FC level is. If you have a significant amount of algae and organics, the minute you added the bleach it starts getting used up. You may never have achieved SLAM level.

Also, and this is important, you need to get your pH right BEFORE you SLAM. Once you start SLAM'ing, pH is impossible to measure when the FC is above 10-15ppm. The high FC interferes with the ability of pH indicator solution to give you the correct color change.

Finally, you need to get to shock chlorine levels and MAINTAIN which means in the beginning your going to be making almost hourly checks of the FC concentration and adding/adjust the chlorine as-needed (Pro Tip - stock up on liquid chlorine and test reagents because you're going to burn through your chlorox and chlorine reagents faster than you think). You can't let it drop below shock levels or else the algae will start to grow again.

You also need to let pumps and filter run 24/7 and brush A LOT in the beginning. The more you agitate the water and get good mixing between the algae and the FC in the water the better. Also keep an eye on your filter pressure as you may need to backwash it several times during a SLAM.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
@ Sunny, thanks ... No, The measure of FC value was 12hrs after I added the bleach. I will hold off before I start the slam process. Just gave it 3rd dose of acid trying to get the PH down. Will give it an hour and test again. (fingers crossed) hopefully this dose will get my PH right so I can start the slamming process. Love the looks I get with 20 gallons of bleach in my cart at the check out counter. lol

I will be sure to brush the liner and steps frequently during the Slam process...
Thanks for the tip.

Ill keep you posted on my progress.

Redford
 
Retested PH. I just don't get it! The first time I added acid the Level dropped from 8.2 to 7.8. After the second and third time I added acid the test results were the same. PH still at 7.8 and doesn't seem to want to go any lower. I am lost at what to do now. Any sugestions/reasons why the acid isn't changing the PH level like it did the first time?

Redford
 
That's neon green, not light green! Lol

Keep adjusting pH til you get it down.
 

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@ Casey, I know right! Lol. Sorry the pic is terrible pic but skies so clear the reflection was so bad and I couldn't get a good shot. Also site wouldn't let me post any other pics stateing insufficient room.
Being Im Not wanting to take so long of time to get rid of algae I went and got some Floculant to help speed up the process. Just broadcasted in pool and running pump for 2 hours then shutting off till tomorrow where I can vacuum to waste.
 
That is unnecessary and a waste of money. You could have just shut the pump off and vac'ed to waste and essentially done the same thing.

Instead of throwing things in the pool you don't need, just SLAM it. That will take care of everything.
 
[email protected] said:
......CYA = 20 I guess (dot disappears for split second but reappears when I stopped adding solution) *repeated test several times with same results......
Click to expand...

I believe you want to wait a second after you add drops to let the surface become still and then make a judgement whether or not you can see the dot. You want to be at the point where there's absolutely no way you can see (or even imagine seeing) the dot. So you may have stopped a bit too early, but I think you're in the ballpark.

Good luck
 
[email protected] said:
Retested PH. I just don't get it! The first time I added acid the Level dropped from 8.2 to 7.8. After the second and third time I added acid the test results were the same. PH still at 7.8 and doesn't seem to want to go any lower. I am lost at what to do now. Any sugestions/reasons why the acid isn't changing the PH level like it did the first time?

Redford
Click to expand...

Add acid slowly. To go from 8.2 to 7.4 or 7.2 (where you want to SLAM) is going to take a lot of acid. You need to add it slowly in small batches and check the pH/TA with each addition. Acid additions are going to lower your TA.

By the way, are you aerating the water in any way with a spa spillway or water feature? If so, you should stop that for now as aeration raises your pH.
 
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