Shock, Bleach or Liquid Chlorine?

Jump to latest Follow Reply
J

jlazy

0
Jul 8, 2014
15
Denver, NC
My pool is a swamp and I am following the "Turning Your Green Swamp Back into a Sparkling Oasis" sticky to clear it up. In that thread JasonLion recommends bleach to kill the algae. My question is was that purely from an economical standpoint? The reason i ask is I am getting Poolife turbo shock for about $4 a pound at 78% cal-hypo. I can get liquid chlorine for about $6 a gallon at 13%. Bleach is about $5 a gallon at 8.25%. Any advice would be helpful.


Thanks in advance
 
Welcome to TFP!

Usually liquid is actually cheaper when you look at the cost per ppm of FC. But also, it does not have the side effects of the solid chlorine. That cal hypo adds calcium and if that gets too high you can have problems and it also may cause cloudy water.

What is your CH now? What are all your test results?
 
Thanks for the warm welcome and quick response! I only have a basic taylor Kit, I have a k-2006 test kit on the way tomorrow. My Ph is 7.2 and my Cl looks like 0. Those are the only readings I have at the moment. I did put cya in a sock and and took about a week to dissolve. Last time I checked my cya was 15. I am going to the pool store and will have better test results for you then. So go with the $5.99 13% liquid chlorine?
 
Looks like there are some Ollie's Bargain Outlets around you. Check them out, they carry liquid shock here by the gallon which is 12.5% sodium hypochlorite for $2.99.
Otherwise Walmart etc for regular bleach. Those prices seem high to me.
 
When you can find a deal on liquid chlorine, snag it up. I need to stop into Ollies myself and get some more. :goodjob:

If I were you, I'd stock up on the liquid. IF, you keep it in a cool dark place like a cellar, it will keep. BUT, if you keep it in a hot garage or shed, it will deteriorate.
 
Thanks for all the advice. Here are the test results from the pool store. I have heard mixed reviews on pool store tests but this is what they gave me. The test they use is "Clear Care Expert"

FC = .23
Total Chlorine = 1.09
Combined Chlorine = .86
PH = 7.2
TA = 87
CH = 112
CYA = 4
Saturation Index -0.5

I went and got 12 gallons of the 10% Liquid Chlorine from Ollie's @ $2.99 (Thanks Rick!) I will have my k-2006 kit tomorrow.
 
jlazy said:
Thanks for all the advice. Here are the test results from the pool store. I have heard mixed reviews on pool store tests but this is what they gave me. The test they use is "Clear Care Expert"

FC = .23
Total Chlorine = 1.09
Combined Chlorine = .86
PH = 7.2
TA = 87
CH = 112
CYA = 4
Saturation Index -0.5

I went and got 12 gallons of the 10% Liquid Chlorine from Ollie's @ $2.99 (Thanks Rick!) I will have my k-2006 kit tomorrow.
Click to expand...

If the chlorine you got is Austin's brand of liquid shock it's 12.5%. The MSDS I've seen shows between 12.5% and 15%. Mine has always been pretty strong. Check the date, it's on the side of the carton. Newer is better, it degrades over time and loses strength. If you can store in a cool dry space, it can help it last longer.

I don't trust pool store test results, so I have no idea on your CYA. The FC is and pH look like they are probably right. Do you have any idea if you have added any stabilizer to your pool in the past? Any "bags" of shock or Tricholor tabs?
At this point without a CYA reading, I'd wait til you get your kit before adding anything.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
CYA? If the reading you're getting is lower than it should be per Pool math based on the amount of CYA you have added to this point then run your FC @ the higher CYA/FC number based on the FC/CYA chart.

FC/CYA chart
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/128-chlorine-cya-chart-slam-shock

Looks like you're still a bit away from done. In any case. I'd bet you a kitkat 7.5FC is too low for SLAM. If you have the time to do so, testing and adding every cpl of hours until it stops dropping every cpl of hours will shorten the overall duration of the SLAM. once you get through a 4 hr window then check every 4, then gradually work your way to longer durations. This is very similar to giving certain antibiotics. you look at the peaks and troughs of the bloodwork, and dose to keep the peaks in range (you aren't worried about peaks in reality...your pool's liver/kidney can't die) and the troughs in range (this is the important one for you.)
 
Where are those test results from? You should have had your K-2006 on the 9th, but those FC and CC numbers seem "off". And we need the CYA.

How often have you been testing and dosing? What is your FC target?
What has been going on with your filter? Clean pressure? How fast is it climbing? When are you backwashing?
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply