I have been fighting algae all summer. We have not even been able to use our pool yet. The pool supply store tested my water, and everything was in the normal range except pH and chlorine. I tried to raise pH enough to start the process that they said would clear up my pool. I used Green to Clean and shocked the pool with 2 lbs of shock twice a day for 3 days. The greenish tint was still in my water, so I took another water sample in. All readings were normal this time except for pH. It was 7.2. They tested my water for metals and said there were none present. I added 10 lbs of soda ash over the past week, and my pH is still around 7.2. The chlorine level is now up at 10 because I am still trying to get rid of the greenish tint to the water. However, I am not able to raise my pH levels at all. I cannot even see the bottom of my pool. Is there any hope of getting clear water within a reasonable amount of time?
Cloudy pool, can't raise pH
- Thread starter becwhite
- Start date
- May 22, 2013
- 2,796
- Pool Size
- 12000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Welcome to the forum Becwhite 
Yes we can turn it blue, not sure how long it will take.
The folks here tend not to use pool store chemicals or pool store water testing. Testing isn't that hard but it does seem a lot of stores can't get it right consistently. In the end you will need to do your own testing to take charge of your pools water and keep it sparkling blue. You will understand with a little reading.
http://tftestkits.net/splash-page.html
First there is some reading you should do and then until you do get a test kit you should post the test results for all the parameters the pool store gave you.
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/
Secondly, until you do a little reading on the TFP method please don't buy or toss anything more into the pool without posting it so we can advise you if it's a good idea. You don't have to listen but it's easier to stop you from tossing something unnecessary in like algaecide then it is to fix it once it's already in
This is what we use to figure out what your pool needs once you post your test numbers: http://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html
Yes we can turn it blue, not sure how long it will take.
The folks here tend not to use pool store chemicals or pool store water testing. Testing isn't that hard but it does seem a lot of stores can't get it right consistently. In the end you will need to do your own testing to take charge of your pools water and keep it sparkling blue. You will understand with a little reading.
http://tftestkits.net/splash-page.html
First there is some reading you should do and then until you do get a test kit you should post the test results for all the parameters the pool store gave you.
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/
Secondly, until you do a little reading on the TFP method please don't buy or toss anything more into the pool without posting it so we can advise you if it's a good idea. You don't have to listen but it's easier to stop you from tossing something unnecessary in like algaecide then it is to fix it once it's already in
This is what we use to figure out what your pool needs once you post your test numbers: http://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html
Here are my numbers from today...the pH is normal today but the pool is still too cloudy to see the bottom.
Free Av Chlorine...8
pH...7.4
TA...150
CYA...100
Calcium Hardness...60
Total dissolved solids...900
phosphates...20
no metals present
Free Av Chlorine...8
pH...7.4
TA...150
CYA...100
Calcium Hardness...60
Total dissolved solids...900
phosphates...20
no metals present
Welcome to the forum Becwhite
Yes we can turn it blue, not sure how long it will take.
The folks here tend not to use pool store chemicals or water testing. Testing isn't that hard but it does seem a lot of stores can't get it right consistently. In the end you will need to do your own testing to take charge of your pools water and keep it sparkling blue. You will understand with a little reading.
http://tftestkits.net/splash-page.html
First there is some reading you should do and then until you do get a test kit you should post the test results for all the parameters the pool store gave you.
http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/
Secondly, until you do a little reading on the TFP method please don't buy or toss anything more into the pool without posting it so we can advise you if it's a good idea. You don't have to listen but it's easier to stop you from tossing something unnecessary in like algaecide then it is to fix it once it's already in
This is what we use to figure out what your pool needs once you post your test numbers: http://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html
- May 22, 2013
- 2,796
- Pool Size
- 12000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
At some point you will need to get a test kit and do your own testing. We can try to use the pool stores numbers but it isn't their pool and they don't always do the best job of testing. Each store is different as are the skills of the person you get each time doing the test. There is a K-2006 http://www.amazon.com/Taylor-Complete-FAS-DPD-Water-K-2006/dp/B0002IXIIG and the TF100 http://tftestkits.net/splash-page.html They do all the tests your pool needs and the kits you see at Walmart or .... usually are much less expensive but don't do all the tests. I have the TF100 and it's a bit more expensive than the K-2006 but it has more chems (can do more tests before needing refills) and it's a better value in my opinion.
IF, IF your CYA or stabilizer is at 100 or more you need to dump out water. It's the only way to lower that number. The problem with someone telling you it's 100 is that it is the limit of the test and unless they diluted the sample with water and tested it a second time you could actually be much higher. The higher the CYA, the more chlorine (bleach) you need to kill your algae and the more bleach you'll need on a daily basis to keep it sanitary.
If you look at this chart http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/128-chlorine-cya-chart-slam-shock you will see that all pools are not equal. The higher the CYA the higher the chlorine needs to be to do the same thing.
Do you have a SWG (salt water generator?) If not, you should likely be around 40-50 with your CYA.
The problem you have with most pool stores is they will tell you if you keep your pool FC level (Free Chlorine) at 1-3ppm you are good - wrong. If you have high CYA then the chlorine isn't as effective and to have enough to control and or consume the stuff you don't want in the pool you need a much higher level. One size fits all doesn't work for pools. It can look clean and clear and blue but be pretty nasty without the correct FC level. If you have CYA of 100 you should always have no less than 7ppm FC and actually keep it up at 12ppm.
Pool Math http://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html is what we use to figure out corrections. There is a link to it at the top of the page on the left.
If you are at a CYA level of 100 you would need to dump out 60% of your water. So the first thing to do would be to go back to the pool store with a sample and have them retest it and if they come up with 100 ask them to do a dilution test so you can find out how far over 100 you actually are as it will change the amount you need to dump (more) or just go ahead and measure how many inches of water you have and dump 60%, refill, run the pump a bit and take a sample to the pool store to find out where you are at.
Correcting that CYA is the first step and there is no reason to add anything else to it presently as you'll likely be throwing a bunch of water away to correct it.
IF, IF your CYA or stabilizer is at 100 or more you need to dump out water. It's the only way to lower that number. The problem with someone telling you it's 100 is that it is the limit of the test and unless they diluted the sample with water and tested it a second time you could actually be much higher. The higher the CYA, the more chlorine (bleach) you need to kill your algae and the more bleach you'll need on a daily basis to keep it sanitary.
If you look at this chart http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/128-chlorine-cya-chart-slam-shock you will see that all pools are not equal. The higher the CYA the higher the chlorine needs to be to do the same thing.
Do you have a SWG (salt water generator?) If not, you should likely be around 40-50 with your CYA.
The problem you have with most pool stores is they will tell you if you keep your pool FC level (Free Chlorine) at 1-3ppm you are good - wrong. If you have high CYA then the chlorine isn't as effective and to have enough to control and or consume the stuff you don't want in the pool you need a much higher level. One size fits all doesn't work for pools. It can look clean and clear and blue but be pretty nasty without the correct FC level. If you have CYA of 100 you should always have no less than 7ppm FC and actually keep it up at 12ppm.
Pool Math http://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html is what we use to figure out corrections. There is a link to it at the top of the page on the left.
If you are at a CYA level of 100 you would need to dump out 60% of your water. So the first thing to do would be to go back to the pool store with a sample and have them retest it and if they come up with 100 ask them to do a dilution test so you can find out how far over 100 you actually are as it will change the amount you need to dump (more) or just go ahead and measure how many inches of water you have and dump 60%, refill, run the pump a bit and take a sample to the pool store to find out where you are at.
Correcting that CYA is the first step and there is no reason to add anything else to it presently as you'll likely be throwing a bunch of water away to correct it.