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Thread: New pool first problem

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    DJSO's Avatar
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    New pool first problem

    We finally have our pool and all was fine for a while... Something went haywire. Pool is very cloudy and I am struggling with Chlorine readings and it just keeps looking worse. I replaced the cartridges in the filter and took water sample to store. They told me To increase PH then shock. So PH is up to 7.8 then I added a gallon of liquid shock. Only looking worse.

    So, I sent hubby to store to get a real test kit, and he came back with Taylor 2100 low. This is showing FC at 2.5 and either doesn't go high enough to get TC or I don't know how to read it. My test strip says I have no FC.

    First things first... Do I even have a test kit that is appropriate or do I need to get a different one online, which means I have to wait til it gets here?

    In mean time, do I take sample back to store and try them again?

    I've never had to shock the pool before and I guess I don't know what I'm doing. I read Pool School SLAM process, but that only brings me back to my test kit question as it doesn't seem like I can do the process without getting good Chlorine readings regularly.
    13,000 gal, IG vinyl, Jandy CV 340 cartridge filter, Jandy 1.5 FloPro pump, inline auto chlorinator, Legacy LRZM heater, Jandy waterfall pump, Automatic pool cover. Hot Springs Spa ~ Flair 326 gal with Ace Salt Water System.

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    wetchem's Avatar
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    Re: New pool first problem

    Honestly, most of us are going to tell you to get a different test kit for the long term (My sig has a link to a page that compares and discusses some options).

    On the bright side, you can perform a full range of tests... please post the results for all of the tests that this kit will perform.
    (Hopefully I have the right test kit?
    Site: Taylor Tech. KIT NUMBER: K-2100
    Site: Taylor Tech. Instructions 2100 )

    The problem I see with the 2100 is that the Chlorine test uses a colour comparative tube which can be difficult to use - at least it is DPD just not the preferred FAS titration method. I have similar Hach type for our lab and the colour at high range is hard to use.

    Here's were we're going to try and get a chemical on it... purchase some distilled, preferably also de-ionized, water like you would for your nice iron so that you don't get spots on your shirts when steam-ironing ... bottles of the stuff in the local grocery store and usually very cheap.

    Now then that you have the pure distilled water:
    Take your pool water and using a small measuring cup... say the 1cup (appx237mL = 1 part) of pool into a clean container, add the same amount of the pure water (so that you now have 2cups total), mix by gently swirling don't mix in a lot of air, just a good swirl, and then test the chlorine is instructed.

    If you get a mid-scale reading then multiply that result by 2 (1 part of pool + 1 part of distilled water equals 2 parts total; thus, you need to muliply the result by 2....) If you are still reading at 2.5 then take 1 part of pool, 3 parts of the pure water, multiply the result by 4 (1pw+3dw=4total). I prefer going back to the original pool water and re-diluting each time as needed until you get back on scale instead of diluting the dilution... there is already enough error in the colour comparison to cause you difficulties.
    Keep diluting until you get on scale... I prefer even numbers for the total parts so your next round would be 1pw+7dw=8 etc...

    then


    B.O.L.


    -WC
    Intex Ultraframe 14'x3.5-Round (4000ish-gal) AG - Vinyl - Intex 5667EG Sand Filter 1600gph :)
    ( retired: 637R Crtrge 1000gph someday it may have another life as a water fountain... or feet washer! Solar Water Heater? )

    :mrgreen: Click here to Goto Pool School. :scratch: How Much Of What? Click Here - Poolcalculator.com :lookhere: TestKits

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    aussieta's Avatar
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    Re: New pool first problem

    what have you been using as your maun source of chlorine
    how long since you filled the water in your pool
    and sorry to say you will need a better test kit, taylor k2006 or tf100
    get the xl option or commercial option as you probably need to slam your pool
    SWG inground peanut shaped eco-bright concrete pool
    50,000 litres 13,000 gallons
    Lincoln Salt Chlorinator, 25 gram cell Sand Filter with glass media
    Taylor K2006-C test kit, Taylor K-1766 salt test, Dolphin M500 pool cleaner
    are you taking care of your pool or is the poolshop taking care of you

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    DJSO's Avatar
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    Re: New pool first problem

    Thanks for the quick replies! I have an in-line chlorinator that I fill with 3" tablets.

    We added about 2 inches of water to the pool on Friday. However, I was away and my husband was rushing, so he didn't check color or chemicals, just opened the cover enough for the hose. So I have no idea if the problem existed before or after adding water.

    I will post all readings tomorrow after I can get some distilled water. Then explore a better test kit.
    13,000 gal, IG vinyl, Jandy CV 340 cartridge filter, Jandy 1.5 FloPro pump, inline auto chlorinator, Legacy LRZM heater, Jandy waterfall pump, Automatic pool cover. Hot Springs Spa ~ Flair 326 gal with Ace Salt Water System.

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    wetchem's Avatar
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    Re: New pool first problem

    Quote Originally Posted by DJSO View Post
    Thanks for the quick replies! I have an in-line chlorinator that I fill with 3" tablets.

    We added about 2 inches of water to the pool on Friday. However, I was away and my husband was rushing, so he didn't check color or chemicals, just opened the cover enough for the hose. So I have no idea if the problem existed before or after adding water.

    I will post all readings tomorrow after I can get some distilled water. Then explore a better test kit.
    Yikes.. nice rain

    I should mention that the dilution method does not work for pH. Just for chlorine, total alk, etc..

    How long have you been using the pucks?
    Also, take a look at the ingredient listing on the container... it will be helpful to know what chemical was/is being used for the chlorine.
    The link for the test kit comparison in my sig also links to some videos, watch the one for Testing Cyanuric Acid with the TF-100... same concept there as for the one in your test kit. I have a hunch that your CYA is very high and that knowledge will be most helpful to the experts.
    Intex Ultraframe 14'x3.5-Round (4000ish-gal) AG - Vinyl - Intex 5667EG Sand Filter 1600gph :)
    ( retired: 637R Crtrge 1000gph someday it may have another life as a water fountain... or feet washer! Solar Water Heater? )

    :mrgreen: Click here to Goto Pool School. :scratch: How Much Of What? Click Here - Poolcalculator.com :lookhere: TestKits

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    DJSO's Avatar
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    Re: New pool first problem

    My CYA test was not included in my kit.... Mysteriously missing. So, I'm ordering a different kit. In the mean time, I'm at the mercy of my store readings.
    Friday
    Very cloudy
    Test strip indicated low TC and FC
    Upped the chlorinator and ran pumps overnight

    Saturday
    Still very cloudy
    Store readings
    FC- 0.08
    TC- 0.08
    CC- 0
    TA- 116
    pH- 6.8
    Hardness- 235
    CyA- 29
    Cleaned filters, realized I waited too long so replaced with new
    Added 2.5 lbs of pH up
    Waited 3 hours then added a gallon of shock
    Kept chlorinator on high
    6hours later test strip shows TC at 1, FC- 0, pH- 7.8, TA-80, CYA-25

    Store reading today
    FC- 0.13
    TC- 3.77
    CC-3.64
    TA- 155
    PH- 7.3
    Hardness- 229
    CyA- 9

    The store recommends adding a cup of muriatic acid, waiting six hours then shocking

    Thoughts? I'm confused. They had me increase the pH yesterday... Won't the muriatic acid just drop it back?

    Wetchem, to answer your questions:
    The pool was opened for a two weeks last November after construction. Winterized, then reopened May 1st of this year. We have only ever used the pucks to Chlorinate. We have never shocked, not even to open this season. Clarity and levels looked great until two weeks ago when we had a party. We've been fighting with it ever since and lost the battle on Friday.
    The pucks are Trichloroethane-s-triazinestrione.

    Thank you for your help!
    13,000 gal, IG vinyl, Jandy CV 340 cartridge filter, Jandy 1.5 FloPro pump, inline auto chlorinator, Legacy LRZM heater, Jandy waterfall pump, Automatic pool cover. Hot Springs Spa ~ Flair 326 gal with Ace Salt Water System.

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    Richard320's Avatar
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    Re: New pool first problem

    Quote Originally Posted by DJSO View Post
    My CYA test was not included in my kit.... Mysteriously missing. So, I'm ordering a different kit. In the mean time, I'm at the mercy of my store readings.
    Friday
    Very cloudy
    Test strip indicated low TC and FC
    Upped the chlorinator and ran pumps overnight

    Saturday
    Still very cloudy
    Store readings
    FC- 0.08
    TC- 0.08
    CC- 0
    TA- 116
    pH- 6.8
    Hardness- 235
    CyA- 29
    Cleaned filters, realized I waited too long so replaced with new
    Added 2.5 lbs of pH up
    Waited 3 hours then added a gallon of shock
    Kept chlorinator on high
    6hours later test strip shows TC at 1, FC- 0, pH- 7.8, TA-80, CYA-25

    Store reading today
    FC- 0.13
    TC- 3.77
    CC-3.64
    TA- 155
    PH- 7.3
    Hardness- 229
    CyA- 9

    The store recommends adding a cup of muriatic acid, waiting six hours then shocking

    Thoughts? I'm confused. They had me increase the pH yesterday... Won't the muriatic acid just drop it back?

    Wetchem, to answer your questions:
    The pool was opened for a two weeks last November after construction. Winterized, then reopened May 1st of this year. We have only ever used the pucks to Chlorinate. We have never shocked, not even to open this season. Clarity and levels looked great until two weeks ago when we had a party. We've been fighting with it ever since and lost the battle on Friday.
    The pucks are Trichloroethane-s-triazinestrione.

    Thank you for your help!
    How did the CYA drop so much so fast? Did you drain a bunch of pool water?

    And if not, then one of those readings must be wrong, and if one is wrong, who says both aren't?

    Your pH is just fine for the Shock Level And Maintain process. And you're starting to see the problem with someone else testing and dosing your pool. Raise pH one day, lower the next. You really need to get off that Merry-go-round. Hopefully, the test kit you ordered is one of the recommended ones, and you'll be able to take control and clear that cloudy pool quickly.
    16K freeform gunite with spa; Pentair 4000 DE filter; Century Whisperflow 1 HP; Pentair Minimax heater.
    Troublefree does not mean Maintenancefree. It's like brushing your teeth: You can spend a couple minutes a day and pennies a week or go to the dentist once a year and spend several thousand dollars.
    A pool is like a pet - you have to feed it every day, even the days you don't want to play with it!

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    DJSO's Avatar
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    Re: New pool first problem

    Quote Originally Posted by Richard320 View Post
    How did the CYA drop so much so fast? Did you drain a bunch of pool water?

    And if not, then one of those readings must be wrong, and if one is wrong, who says both aren't?

    Your pH is just fine for the Shock Level And Maintain process. And you're starting to see the problem with someone else testing and dosing your pool. Raise pH one day, lower the next. You really need to get off that Merry-go-round. Hopefully, the test kit you ordered is one of the recommended ones, and you'll be able to take control and clear that cloudy pool quickly.
    Yes very frustrating. My test kit can't get here fast enough! I ordered the tf100 recommended from this site. In the mean time, where do I start? What FC should I aim for since my CYA makes no sense? We drained no water, just ran the filters all night with the chlorinator on high. I have since turned the chlorinator back down to low, figuring I was just wasting chlorine until I was done with slam process. Is this right?

    I'm thinking that I'm going to guess my CYA somewhere in the middle of the 2 readings and go with 20, putting my SLAM FC at 10. Is that a safe bet?

    Also, I have the waterfalls running to increase aeration and circulation. Should I continue this or am I just depleting the chlorine? It's a cloudy day today...

    Sorry for all the questions, it's still such a new pool, I hate to ruin anything just yet!
    13,000 gal, IG vinyl, Jandy CV 340 cartridge filter, Jandy 1.5 FloPro pump, inline auto chlorinator, Legacy LRZM heater, Jandy waterfall pump, Automatic pool cover. Hot Springs Spa ~ Flair 326 gal with Ace Salt Water System.

  9. Back To Top    #9
    Richard320's Avatar
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    Re: New pool first problem

    Quote Originally Posted by DJSO View Post
    Yes very frustrating. My test kit can't get here fast enough! I ordered the tf100 recommended from this site. In the mean time, where do I start? What FC should I aim for since my CYA makes no sense? We drained no water, just ran the filters all night with the chlorinator on high. I have since turned the chlorinator back down to low, figuring I was just wasting chlorine until I was done with slam process. Is this right?

    I'm thinking that I'm going to guess my CYA somewhere in the middle of the 2 readings and go with 20, putting my SLAM FC at 10. Is that a safe bet?

    Also, I have the waterfalls running to increase aeration and circulation. Should I continue this or am I just depleting the chlorine? It's a cloudy day today...

    Sorry for all the questions, it's still such a new pool, I hate to ruin anything just yet!
    After a steady diet of pucks, I'd guess the CYA is higher than anyone has tested it at so far, so 10 FC would be a safe bet. That's shock level for zero CYA, so it won't harm anything. It may not be enough to clear things, but that's the best you can do working blind the way you are. How do you intend to read 10 FC? You should run the waterfall just to kill any algae lingering in that system.
    16K freeform gunite with spa; Pentair 4000 DE filter; Century Whisperflow 1 HP; Pentair Minimax heater.
    Troublefree does not mean Maintenancefree. It's like brushing your teeth: You can spend a couple minutes a day and pennies a week or go to the dentist once a year and spend several thousand dollars.
    A pool is like a pet - you have to feed it every day, even the days you don't want to play with it!

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    DJSO's Avatar
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    Re: New pool first problem

    Quote Originally Posted by Richard320 View Post
    After a steady diet of pucks, I'd guess the CYA is higher than anyone has tested it at so far, so 10 FC would be a safe bet. That's shock level for zero CYA, so it won't harm anything. It may not be enough to clear things, but that's the best you can do working blind the way you are. How do you intend to read 10 FC? You should run the waterfall just to kill any algae lingering in that system.
    I have a Taylor 2100 test kit for low levels, minus the CYA test. So, as suggested above, I diluted with distilled water. Took 1 part pool water + 3 parts distilled water to get on the chart. Following the pool calculator, I added a gallon / 128 oz of liquid shock 12.5%. With my diluted test, multiplying by 4, I'm reading 10FC. So, hoping I'm at least pretty close.

    Since I had it out, I re-ran my TA and my pH. I'm getting a TA of 155 and a pH of 8. I ran this after the shock, so I'm not sure if it's to be expected or even matters. Where do I start worrying about damaging / discoloring the liner? Or hurting the other equipment?

    Last question, we have an auto cover. Should I be keeping the pool open or closed? What about in the rain? We are expecting showers the next couple days?

    The water is still cloudy, but I am getting a green tinge. I suspect I may have waited to long to start shocking while I was figuring out what to do. Now I just don't want to go in the wrong direction... image.jpg
    13,000 gal, IG vinyl, Jandy CV 340 cartridge filter, Jandy 1.5 FloPro pump, inline auto chlorinator, Legacy LRZM heater, Jandy waterfall pump, Automatic pool cover. Hot Springs Spa ~ Flair 326 gal with Ace Salt Water System.

  11. Back To Top    #11

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    New pool first problem

    Honestly, without decent test results from the TF100 or K2006 kits, there's little advice that can be given. Cloudy water is a complex problem that can range anywhere from a potential algae bloom to calcium scaling. Without solid numbers, we're all just grasping at straws.

    I can tell you one thing though - I threw away all the pucks I had because they totally hosed up my pool water with too much CYA. Since you've been running with them and you've not done any water replacements, I'm thinking your CYA levels might actually be off the charts. Unless the pool store is doing a melamine visual turbidity test, you really can't trust any test strips to give you an accurate CYA reading. Even the melamine test is limited to CYA readings not higher than 120ppm.

    The experts here can and will help you get your new pool sparkling again. All they need is good test data



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    Mod Squad zea3's Avatar
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    Re: New pool first problem

    Turn off the chlorinator and just use liquid chlorine. Brush the pool daily and keep the cover open for now. When your test kit comes in and we have current test results we can give more detailed instruction.
    TFP Moderator
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