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Thread: PH and Salt

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    PH and Salt

    Hello To All,
    Have had an enormous amount of rain that has thrown my PH way high.Also had a low salt level of 2600 ppm so last night I threw a bag of salt in there and it raised it up to 2800 ppm.
    This morning I adjusted the PH,which was at 8.0 with just short of a quart of acid per the pool calculator.Tested this evening and PH is a shade low at 7.4,but the salt level dropped by almost 400 ppm to 2400 ppm. Is this a normal reaction to a PH adjustment ? I will bring the PH up to 7.6 in the morning and retest and post it here.
    18x36 IG vinyle,Sta-Rite System 3 cartridge filter,Pentair IC-40 SWG,Sta-Rite 1 1/4 hp pump,Barracuda G3 pool cleaner,built 2008.

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    Richard320's Avatar
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    Re: PH and Salt

    Leave the pH alone. It will climb soon enough with the SWG running.

    pH doesn't change salt, but if you had a lot of rain and the water wasn't thoroughly mixed, maybe the initial reading was higher than reality. Also note if you lost that much salt, you lost an equal percentage of CYA.
    16K freeform gunite with spa; Pentair 4000 DE filter; Century Whisperflow 1 HP; Pentair Minimax heater.
    Troublefree does not mean Maintenancefree. It's like brushing your teeth: You can spend a couple minutes a day and pennies a week or go to the dentist once a year and spend several thousand dollars.
    A pool is like a pet - you have to feed it every day, even the days you don't want to play with it!

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    Re: PH and Salt

    Thanks for the advice Richard.Will retest this morning and adjust the salt only to get it to 3400 ppm per manufacturer.Also low on stabilizer,so will need a couple of pounds of that as well.The chlorine is a shade low,so would you adjust the stabilizer first or the salt ?
    18x36 IG vinyle,Sta-Rite System 3 cartridge filter,Pentair IC-40 SWG,Sta-Rite 1 1/4 hp pump,Barracuda G3 pool cleaner,built 2008.

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    Richard320's Avatar
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    Re: PH and Salt

    Quote Originally Posted by SLUGGO60 View Post
    Thanks for the advice Richard.Will retest this morning and adjust the salt only to get it to 3400 ppm per manufacturer.Also low on stabilizer,so will need a couple of pounds of that as well.The chlorine is a shade low,so would you adjust the stabilizer first or the salt ?
    It shouldn't make much difference. The delay will be what -- two minutes? They can go in back-to-back. The CYA will take a day or two to fully dissolve, so it doesn't matter.
    16K freeform gunite with spa; Pentair 4000 DE filter; Century Whisperflow 1 HP; Pentair Minimax heater.
    Troublefree does not mean Maintenancefree. It's like brushing your teeth: You can spend a couple minutes a day and pennies a week or go to the dentist once a year and spend several thousand dollars.
    A pool is like a pet - you have to feed it every day, even the days you don't want to play with it!

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    Re: PH and Salt

    Suspect I am having a small algae issue. Tested with the FAS-DPD last night after I shocked the pool and had 22.5ppm FC and the CC was registering,maybe 1 ppm..This morning it was 18 ppm FC. When I am shocking to algae levels, I leave the SWG running during the day and shut it at night when I reach shock level and shut everything off for the night.Should I turn off the SWG ?Will keep the pool at 22ppm FC thru the day and see what the OFCL test says in the morning.The only question was whether to shut off the SWG or leave it on ? Would not want to damage it.pool sees full sun here with temps in the high 90's.
    18x36 IG vinyle,Sta-Rite System 3 cartridge filter,Pentair IC-40 SWG,Sta-Rite 1 1/4 hp pump,Barracuda G3 pool cleaner,built 2008.

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    Mod Squad tim5055's Avatar
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    Re: PH and Salt

    Quote Originally Posted by SLUGGO60 View Post
    Suspect I am having a small algae issue. Tested with the FAS-DPD last night after I shocked the pool and had 22.5ppm FC and the CC was registering,maybe 1 ppm..This morning it was 18 ppm FC. When I am shocking to algae levels, I leave the SWG running during the day and shut it at night when I reach shock level and shut everything off for the night.Should I turn off the SWG ?Will keep the pool at 22ppm FC thru the day and see what the OFCL test says in the morning.The only question was whether to shut off the SWG or leave it on ? Would not want to damage it.pool sees full sun here with temps in the high 90's.
    I'm confused Are you following TFP methods or pool store methods?

    We do not "shock" our pools, we follow the SLAM Process when there is a problem. If you have algae, SLAM the pool. If there is not a problem we don't "shock" the pool. That is a pool store recommendation.

    But the bigger question is why you got the algae? Obviously at some point your FC went below what is recommended for your CYA level. Have you tested CYA? In early July you were going to add CYA. Did you? What is the current level?
    TFP Moderator 39 X 18 23,000(ish) freeform gunite; built 2007ish; Pentair Triton II TR100 600lb Sand filter; 2 HP Pentair pump with 2.2 HP AO Smith single speed motor; 2 skimmers, 1 main drain, 4 returns w/waterfall, Stenner 45MHP2 3GPD running@ 60% - 15 gal Tank; heated by the sun CYA 200+ when I started - 50 now. Dolphin Supreme M5 Pool Cleaner. Hot Springs SX Spa, 285 gallon

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    Re: PH and Salt

    I am well versed in the "slam" process.Sorry to use such foul language in my post.I use a Taylor K2005 to test with and it is difficult to see the color change between FC and TC.I decided to use the FAS-DPD test to see if any CC would show up and low and behold it did.So,I SHOCKED(slammed) the pool to see if it lost any FC overnight and low and behold it did.So,now I am trying to keep the FC level at shock levels for my CYA range(65-70) and see if I loose any FC again tonight.I asked a question about leaving the SWG running during the SHOCK(slam)process and would it skew the results or damage the SWG,but you blew right by that as you highlighted my ignorance to the TFP way of doing things.I do not use the pool store unless I need some salt.
    18x36 IG vinyle,Sta-Rite System 3 cartridge filter,Pentair IC-40 SWG,Sta-Rite 1 1/4 hp pump,Barracuda G3 pool cleaner,built 2008.

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    PAGirl's Avatar
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    Re: PH and Salt

    Most of the time they say turn it off so it doesn't shorten the life of the cell.
    26' X 52" Intex Ultra Frame. Intex Sand Filter
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    You can lead a horse to (clear) water, but you can't force him to swim in it!

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    Re: PH and Salt

    Thnx,will do.
    18x36 IG vinyle,Sta-Rite System 3 cartridge filter,Pentair IC-40 SWG,Sta-Rite 1 1/4 hp pump,Barracuda G3 pool cleaner,built 2008.

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    Mod Squad tim5055's Avatar
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    Re: PH and Salt

    Quote Originally Posted by SLUGGO60 View Post
    I am well versed in the "slam" process.Sorry to use such foul language in my post.I use a Taylor K2005 to test with and it is difficult to see the color change between FC and TC.I decided to use the FAS-DPD test to see if any CC would show up and low and behold it did.So,I SHOCKED(slammed) the pool to see if it lost any FC overnight and low and behold it did.So,now I am trying to keep the FC level at shock levels for my CYA range(65-70) and see if I loose any FC again tonight.I asked a question about leaving the SWG running during the SHOCK(slam)process and would it skew the results or damage the SWG,but you blew right by that as you highlighted my ignorance to the TFP way of doing things.I do not use the pool store unless I need some salt.
    I wasn't trying to highlight anything really. As I said, I was confused (my wife says that is my usual state) as to what you were in the process of. PAGirl has answered your question regarding the SWCG and I do apologize if what I said came out the wrong way.
    TFP Moderator 39 X 18 23,000(ish) freeform gunite; built 2007ish; Pentair Triton II TR100 600lb Sand filter; 2 HP Pentair pump with 2.2 HP AO Smith single speed motor; 2 skimmers, 1 main drain, 4 returns w/waterfall, Stenner 45MHP2 3GPD running@ 60% - 15 gal Tank; heated by the sun CYA 200+ when I started - 50 now. Dolphin Supreme M5 Pool Cleaner. Hot Springs SX Spa, 285 gallon

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