Ok, first, I have looked EVERYWHERE for help. Now to the real point. My pool is VERY foggy, and I keep adding the chemicals the pool store keep telling me. Last night I shocked it, and the week before, I shocked it... but nothing is happening. I cannot see the bottom, and when I test the pool with a strip, everything is usually ok except the "FCI." I guess its Free Chlorine, but under that it says Bromine. Which throws me off. I have been testing for days, and the second I get it to touch the perfect purple color, I test it again the next day... white, "0 FCI." I'm not sure if this has to do with the cloudy pool, but I tried everything the pool store told me to do about the fogginess. They just give me this chemical, which has a stupid name and makes me confused of what its supposed to do. Even if I have the FCI at the "ok" stage, the pool is still foggy, and I cant see the bottom. I don't think its algae because the sides don't feel slimy. But isn't the shock supposed to kill that? I don't know... just please help..
Testing help~
- Thread starter AnthonyZero
- Start date
Welcome to TFP... You have come to the best pool forum on the web! 
First, you need a better test kit than dip strips. Your pool and you deserve to have this test kit. :lookhere: Test Kit Comparison The TF100 is the best kit for the money and you will get more reagents than the K2006 offers. I would highly suggest you get the TF100 XL option as you are going to need to SLAM your pool.
Second, you need to read the ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry. Once you learn this, your life and your pool will be better off, I and the thousand's of members will guarantee it! TFPC works!
Let's talk about SLAM'ing the pool. It's called Shock Level and Maintain, with MAINTAINING being the most important key factor in the whole SLAM. If you don't keep the SLAM going, you will never clear the pool. :lookhere: SLAMing Your Pool
There are more educational links in Pool School, but for now, just stick with these, order the TF100 and we'll guide you to a clean and clear pool. And before I forget, please read and complete the following :lookhere: What we need to know to answer your questions.
First, you need a better test kit than dip strips. Your pool and you deserve to have this test kit. :lookhere: Test Kit Comparison The TF100 is the best kit for the money and you will get more reagents than the K2006 offers. I would highly suggest you get the TF100 XL option as you are going to need to SLAM your pool.
Second, you need to read the ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry. Once you learn this, your life and your pool will be better off, I and the thousand's of members will guarantee it! TFPC works!
Let's talk about SLAM'ing the pool. It's called Shock Level and Maintain, with MAINTAINING being the most important key factor in the whole SLAM. If you don't keep the SLAM going, you will never clear the pool. :lookhere: SLAMing Your Pool
There are more educational links in Pool School, but for now, just stick with these, order the TF100 and we'll guide you to a clean and clear pool. And before I forget, please read and complete the following :lookhere: What we need to know to answer your questions.
Well, Casey has given you the warm welcome and very good advice. I bet you have been using granular shock and probably 3" pucks, all because the pool store said that was what you should use. Whe you have a problem, they sell you something else.
Now, I'll sound a little negative...
The only thing the pools store is going to help you get rid of is your money. Most of them do not understand the relationship between chlorine and CYA (stabilizer). What they don't know or don't want to tell you is that CYA doesn't go away. The only way to get rid of it is to change water. Solid chlorine products (pucks & shock) with few exceptions are about 50% CYA. I am going to bet that your CYA levels are through the roof. With high CYA you need high chlorine to maintain proper sanitiIng levels. Keep your chlorine at the recommended 1 - 3 with high CYA and you end up with things growing in your pool. Things that make the water cloudy.
Follow the TFPC methods and you will end up with a clear safe pool. Follow the pool store methods and you will have more of what you already have. Eventually they will tell you you have "chlorine lock" and your only solution is to drain your pool. Funny, that will also remove the CYA.
Welcome to TFPC
Now, I'll sound a little negative...
The only thing the pools store is going to help you get rid of is your money. Most of them do not understand the relationship between chlorine and CYA (stabilizer). What they don't know or don't want to tell you is that CYA doesn't go away. The only way to get rid of it is to change water. Solid chlorine products (pucks & shock) with few exceptions are about 50% CYA. I am going to bet that your CYA levels are through the roof. With high CYA you need high chlorine to maintain proper sanitiIng levels. Keep your chlorine at the recommended 1 - 3 with high CYA and you end up with things growing in your pool. Things that make the water cloudy.
Follow the TFPC methods and you will end up with a clear safe pool. Follow the pool store methods and you will have more of what you already have. Eventually they will tell you you have "chlorine lock" and your only solution is to drain your pool. Funny, that will also remove the CYA.
Welcome to TFPC