Base for AGP, limestone?

May 24, 2013
57
So, deciding on the base for the new pool going in and I am leaning towards using crushed limestone, unless someone can give me a good reason as to why not...

I need to fill in about 4+ inches of elevation to where I want the pool to sit and as it turns out I am planning on using limestone for the paver base (since it sets up like concrete after it gets wet and dries out), and I have found references to people using it for a pool base as well, which would totally simplify things for this project. I have also found some offhanded commentary that the limestone will react with the liner and bases/walls if you have a all-steel pool, but the one I have is resin bottom plates and rails with steel wall and top plates and upper reinforcing ring, as well as using foam on the walls, foam flooring and foam cove, so I don't even think that concern applies, does it?

Now, even if I use limestone, should I plan on using 12x12x2 pavers under the uprights? For pavers it is commonly accepted that the limestone, once wet, compacted and dried out is almost like concrete, so if that applies, and since I am using a vibratory compactor along with the proper amount of moisture to compact every 2" of lift, is there any reason to use pavers under the uprights?

Personally, it is only a $30 or so expense for the pavers, so I don't mind doing it, but for the extra work is it buying me anything? If it is "common and accepted" practice to just do it regardless of the aggregate, so be it, it will be done, but I know that the AquaLeader instructions state that for the "best installation base" to use a compacted crushed aggregate for a 2ft ring with the pool wall centered in the middle. Their instructions make no mention of using pavers at all if you put a crushed aggregate ring where the wall will be.

Again, any and all input is appreciated.
 
Dennis, you should be fine using the limestone and compacting it.
 
I am not an AGP guy by any stretch but the pavers seem critical to me. Being able to spread the load from the uprights over a 12x12" surface is far better than just setting them down on a "fluid" base.

I may not have read correctly above but the pavers seem necessary to distribute that weight without sinking.
 
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duraleigh, if you read the Aqualeader install instructions, when they suggest a 2ft wide "ring" of compacted crushed aggregate as a base for a pool, they do not even mention pavers at all. That is because a compacted crushed aggregate "base" is not a "fluid" base, it is a solid non-moving established "base", ie, it is no different than the crushed rock they put down under pavement or asphalt, regardless if done with a "drainage" aggregate or a "solid forming" aggregate like limestone, none are considered "fluid".

Talked to a construction engineer friend of mine and he even stated that limestone is one of the best bases because the PH of it is disliked by many forms of foliage, including tree roots, thus you have less concern of "infiltration" and "buckling" caused after the installation in the future. He mentioned that a 4"+ thick limestone bed below something like a pool is ideal and once it "sets" it basically is virtually no different than concrete. He did mention that if I ever decide to remove the pool I am going to have a heck of a time reworking it. My best bet at that point is making the area that had the pool an extension of the patio with more pavers. I am still using a weed barrier under the limestone, but that is just being "thorough" more than anything.

The "liquidity" of a crushed limestone "base" is a non-issue.
 
I think you should be fine. Just use the plate compactor and run it in 3" lifts til level.
 
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