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Thread: SOLVED: Intermatic Problem

  1. Back To Top    #1

    SOLVED: Intermatic Problem

    Code:
    UPDATE:  Installing the correct voltage time worked.  I'm such as DumbMule
    I have a new Intermatic timer (T101R) that I just hooked up to my pool. I attached it to the wall and ran two conduits all seemed well. I took the Line to A and 1 (where the clock motor was installed) and the load to the pump went to 1 and 2. Each one has a ground going to the ground post in the box.

    The pool pump runs off the new switch in the timer just fine; however, the timer clock doesn't tick. It also seems to arc off the back of the metal box everytime I flip the switch... I only see that happen at night.

    This seemed pretty simple but I haven't been able to conquer this yet. What am I missing?


    Help!
    -inBamaNow

    16x32 Hydra Liner, Hayward 24" Pro Sand Filter, WhisperFlo 1HP Pump, Hayward CL200, AquaChem Test Kit =[

  2. Back To Top    #2
    JasonLion's Avatar
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    Re: Intermatic Problem

    Did you hook up line, neutral, and ground wires from the supply? You mention line and ground, but you didn't mention connecting neutral. Also, a picture of the wiring would help.

    It is possible, though unlikely, that you timer clock motor is defective.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
    Creator of PoolMath and Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School

  3. Back To Top    #3
    JasonLion's Avatar
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    Re: Intermatic Problem

    On a T101 timer the supply goes to A and 1, and the pump goes to A and 2. There should also be wires already wired to the clock motor that go to A and 1.

    There is a diagram of how to wire it here.
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
    Creator of PoolMath and Pool Calculator. Other handy links: Support this site, TF Test Kits, Pool School

  4. Back To Top    #4

    Re: Intermatic Problem

    I'm sure I will be exposing myself on this forum with this post... (after further review) I will rephrase that sentence. I will be revealing to this forum my stupidity... Please don't be afraid to click the link, I did not 'expose myself'.

    Anyway....



    Answering above... I have used that diagram to install the timer, but the previous connection had a Electrical Outlet in the current Junction box which I wired black to black and white to white and that goes to the Timer(which was a electrical Switch).
    -inBamaNow

    16x32 Hydra Liner, Hayward 24" Pro Sand Filter, WhisperFlo 1HP Pump, Hayward CL200, AquaChem Test Kit =[

  5. Back To Top    #5

    Join Date
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    Re: Intermatic Problem

    Is your pump 220V?

    Based on the pics, I would guess it is.
    A 220V pump needs two hot lines, and a ground to work.
    When you throw your switch, it would connect both hots, and the ground is always connected.

    You should be able to look at the label on the pump, and see what voltage it runs at.

    Your intermatic is for 110V, so if it is really a 220V pump, then you need a 220V switch.

    If the pump was 110V, I would expect to see different color wires, with a colored wire for hot, and white for neutral.

    Randy
    25,000 gal fiberglass pool, Raypak 200k BTU H200FDN gas heater, Pentair CCP520 520 sq ft Cart filter, Max-Flo VS2303VSP pump. iWave wireless remote,

    seperate spa, with own pump, cartridge filter, Hayward H200FDN heater

  6. Back To Top    #6

    Re: Intermatic Problem

    Thanks for the reply, randytsuch. If it is 220v, I would fell pretty stupid... but I already do feel pretty stupid. My pump model does both 220v and 110v; so I didn't know how to determine which that it was. Before I installed the clock and the junction box... it was a 110v outlet and a 110 switch in outdoor boxes.
    -inBamaNow

    16x32 Hydra Liner, Hayward 24" Pro Sand Filter, WhisperFlo 1HP Pump, Hayward CL200, AquaChem Test Kit =[

  7. Back To Top    #7

    Re: Intermatic Problem

    I think Randy has it right. What I see is 220v wiring but a 110v box. The plastic cover on the time clock that goes over the wiring shows a 220v setup which is strange.

    The wiring coming from the pump would indicate 220v motor. There is no neutral wire that I can see.

    A wiring diagram should be inside the metal plate at the back end of the motor. If the motor is wired for 220v, there should be two hot wires and a ground going to the clock. The two hot wires connect to the load side of the clock. There should be 2 load terminals in the clock. Yours doesn't seem to have that. There should also be 2 line terminals where you connect 2 hot wires coming from the junction box.

    The difference in the setup of the terminals of the clock with the plastic cover schematic is confusing to me.

  8. Back To Top    #8

    Join Date
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    Re: Intermatic Problem

    Quote Originally Posted by inbamanow
    Thanks for the reply, randytsuch. If it is 220v, I would fell pretty stupid... but I already do feel pretty stupid. My pump model does both 220v and 110v; so I didn't know how to determine which that it was. Before I installed the clock and the junction box... it was a 110v outlet and a 110 switch in outdoor boxes.
    There's no label on the pump that says the voltage?

    Do you know where the breaker is for the pump?
    If the pump breaker has two switches that are bolted together, then it's a 220V breaker, meaning your pump is 220V.
    At least, that's what my breaker looks like, for my 220V pump.

    You don't have a meter, do you? Then you could just check to see of both lines are hot.

    Randy
    25,000 gal fiberglass pool, Raypak 200k BTU H200FDN gas heater, Pentair CCP520 520 sq ft Cart filter, Max-Flo VS2303VSP pump. iWave wireless remote,

    seperate spa, with own pump, cartridge filter, Hayward H200FDN heater

  9. Back To Top    #9

    Re: Intermatic Problem

    Yeah, Im what i call lazy... I will get a meter on it later too... thanks again.
    -inBamaNow

    16x32 Hydra Liner, Hayward 24" Pro Sand Filter, WhisperFlo 1HP Pump, Hayward CL200, AquaChem Test Kit =[

  10. Back To Top    #10

    Re: Intermatic Problem

    Well H E Double Hockey Sticks... The meter says 220.... That's why you guys are my new best friends... Now I just need to get Home Depot to take this one back =[

    Thanks
    Fellas and Fellettes
    -inBamaNow

    16x32 Hydra Liner, Hayward 24" Pro Sand Filter, WhisperFlo 1HP Pump, Hayward CL200, AquaChem Test Kit =[

  11. Back To Top    #11

    Re: Intermatic Problem

    ok...
    I purchased and installed a T104R Intermatic Timer.

    On install... my actions were (http://www.intermatic.com/images/ins...heets/T104.pdf):

    Supply Line 1 to Post 1
    Supply Line 2 to Post 3
    Clock Line 1 to Post 1
    Clock Line 2 to Post 3
    Load Line 1 to Post 2
    Load Line 2 to Post 4

    Supply and Load grounded to Box ground.

    Does this look good?
    Seems to work, now...

    Thanks jason and randy
    -inBamaNow

    16x32 Hydra Liner, Hayward 24" Pro Sand Filter, WhisperFlo 1HP Pump, Hayward CL200, AquaChem Test Kit =[

  12. Back To Top    #12

    Re: SOLVED: Intermatic Problem

    Yes, that looks like the correct setup.

    They originally sold you a 110v clock but with a 220v plastic cover so I wouldn't feel bad at all.

    Glad it worked out for you.


    Tim

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