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Thread: Chlorine issues

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    Chlorine issues

    So I uncovered my pool about a week ago, and had a swamp in my IG (34000 gal). I cleaned out basically all of the organic load in the pool...vacuumed the entire pool last night and got almost nothing out. I had shocked the pool earlier this week on Monday with double the shock that was needed, filled my chlorinator and everything is in service, but my water has been cloudy since then, and doesn't seem to be clearing up very much at all. I have a TF-100 for my testing and ran the numbers last night. On my drop test, I noticed that when I added the DFD powder, the water didn't turn pink, but a greyish color. I rinsed, cleaned and re-sampled until I got the water in the graduated cylinder pink, then put one drop of 870 liquid in, and the water turned a greyish color. I never could get it back clear. I also used the included daily test kit chlorine test, and it came back clear. I have shocked the pool multiple times in the past week to try to make sure I killed the organic load. So my question is...how long are the chemicals in the kit good for? I've had the kit for about 2 years, always kept inside a drawer in a dark room. Is it possible that even though I've overloaded the pool with chlorine that the sun/organic load has gotten past it? I've also noticed that my chlorinator won't charge full with water, but the pucks are dissolving. Could my chlorinator be bad or have bad flow control?

    FC - as mentioned above, couldn't determine...looked on the final test as 0.5 or lower
    FC - (daily kit) clear, showed nothing
    CYA - 70ish
    pH - 6.5ish
    water clean, but cloudy, can barely see the bottom of the shallow end

    As always, I appreciate any and all advice, and have always gotten nothing but the best from this site
    36000 gallon IG 20x40, Heyward 1.5 HP pump, Sta-Flo II filter, 1 skimmer, no deep water suction, 4 returns

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    Re: Chlorine issues

    Two years is a bit long for the life of the reagents. I would recommend ordering some new ones.
    12000 Gallon IG Plaster built 2/15/2014. Jandy 340 sg ft 127 gpm filter, Jandy 1 HP stealth pump. Circupool RJ-45 SWG (overkill). TF-100 with Speed Stir.

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    Re: Chlorine issues

    Add a drop of chlorine to tap water and drop a scoop of powder in there to see if it turns pink. My reagents are 2 years old and work just fine.

    You have very cloudy water that can't hold FC, that doesn't sound like clean water to me. You are going to need to properly SLAM your pool to get things balanced. First though you will want to drop your CYA. If you are going to continue using pucks then you need to drop your CYA down to about 30, which will involve a ~60% drain.

    If you could add your pool info in your signature that would be extremely helpful so we can easily see what you are working with.
    JD - 28' Round Above Ground Pool, 17,000 Gallons. Dual speed Jacuzzi pump with cartridge filter. Dual speed 1 HP pump, Hayward S210T sand filter
    Pool School - PoolMath - HIGHLY Recommended Test Kits

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    Re: Chlorine issues

    Is it a viable option to stop using pucks and just adjust my chlorine levels accordingly with the CYA I currently have? Then adjust the chlorine levels with liquid bleach?
    36000 gallon IG 20x40, Heyward 1.5 HP pump, Sta-Flo II filter, 1 skimmer, no deep water suction, 4 returns

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    Re: Chlorine issues

    You can do that. 70 is a bit high but very managable if you are mindful to your proper FC for it.

    JD - 28' Round Above Ground Pool, 17,000 Gallons. Dual speed Jacuzzi pump with cartridge filter. Dual speed 1 HP pump, Hayward S210T sand filter
    Pool School - PoolMath - HIGHLY Recommended Test Kits

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    Re: Chlorine issues

    Quote Originally Posted by stpatty View Post
    Is it a viable option to stop using pucks and just adjust my chlorine levels accordingly with the CYA I currently have? Then adjust the chlorine levels with liquid bleach?
    yes, it can be done but involves keeping a closer eye on everything. As you see in my signature my CYA is at 80 and I'm living with it.
    TFP Moderator 39 X 18 23,000(ish) freeform gunite; built 2007ish; Pentair Triton II TR100 600lb Sand filter; 2 HP Pentair pump with 2.2 HP AO Smith single speed motor; 2 skimmers, 1 main drain, 4 returns w/waterfall, Stenner 45MHP2 3GPD running@ 60% - 15 gal Tank; heated by the sun CYA 200+ when I started - 50 now. Dolphin Supreme M5 Pool Cleaner. Hot Springs SX Spa, 285 gallon

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    Re: Chlorine issues

    So what could I reasonably expect for a CYA drop using that method? Any rough estimates, or just monitor and adjust?
    36000 gallon IG 20x40, Heyward 1.5 HP pump, Sta-Flo II filter, 1 skimmer, no deep water suction, 4 returns

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    Re: Chlorine issues

    About 1-2/month. CYA doesn't break down very fast, that is why it builds up so fast with trichlor use.

    Are you going to SLAM your pool? I believe that will solve your cloudiness and chlorine demand issues.

    JD - 28' Round Above Ground Pool, 17,000 Gallons. Dual speed Jacuzzi pump with cartridge filter. Dual speed 1 HP pump, Hayward S210T sand filter
    Pool School - PoolMath - HIGHLY Recommended Test Kits

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    Re: Chlorine issues

    Quote Originally Posted by stpatty View Post
    So what could I reasonably expect for a CYA drop using that method? Any rough estimates, or just monitor and adjust?
    the CYA drop will be extremely slow. Only water replacement will drop it quickly. I went from 200+ to my now 80 with aggressive vacuuming to waste and multiple 2 foot water replacements. Other than that it is monitor and adjust. The problem with the higher CYA is the resultant higher shock level if you need to SLAM.
    TFP Moderator 39 X 18 23,000(ish) freeform gunite; built 2007ish; Pentair Triton II TR100 600lb Sand filter; 2 HP Pentair pump with 2.2 HP AO Smith single speed motor; 2 skimmers, 1 main drain, 4 returns w/waterfall, Stenner 45MHP2 3GPD running@ 60% - 15 gal Tank; heated by the sun CYA 200+ when I started - 50 now. Dolphin Supreme M5 Pool Cleaner. Hot Springs SX Spa, 285 gallon

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    Re: Chlorine issues

    Yes. I was planning on using the chart from pool school and bringing FC up to the recommended shock level using liquid bleach, remove the remaining pucks from the chlorinator and adjusting daily with liquid until I can get the CYA down to 30-40 before returning the chlorinator pucks to service. I'll have some pH adjustments I'm sure of, and I feel certain I'll need to work on alkalinity as well.
    36000 gallon IG 20x40, Heyward 1.5 HP pump, Sta-Flo II filter, 1 skimmer, no deep water suction, 4 returns

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    SLAM in progress, updated from yesterday

    I had posted some readings with some questions and got great help yesterday, as usual from the community here! It appears my readings were a bit off after re-sampling multiple times. So they appeared as follows after the first phase of SLAM.

    FC - 34
    CC - 0.5
    pH - 6.6
    CYA - 50
    Alkalinity - couldn't be determined

    These readings were the same from just after sundown yesterday to just around sunrise this morning. I vacuumed, backwashed and rinsed, and got close to no organic load from the pool (couple of leaves). The water is cloudy, though I'm not getting any organic material from vacuuming. The alkalinity was worrisome to me, since when I tested it with the TF-100, it turned pink immediately when adding reagents...no green whatsoever. I tested the water before adding 9 gallons of 8.25% liquid chlorine, then a couple of hours later, then again this morning. So my question is, is the alkalinity affecting my water clarity to this degree, and should I attempt to raise it during the SLAM process? Again, thanks for all the help with my previous questions...the reagents are still good in the kit, and the above posted numbers are what I believe to be accurate after multiple sampling tests.

    .......posts moved from new topic started to the existing thread......woodyp
    Last edited by woodyp; 06-27-2014 at 03:34 PM. Reason: moved ot existing htread
    36000 gallon IG 20x40, Heyward 1.5 HP pump, Sta-Flo II filter, 1 skimmer, no deep water suction, 4 returns

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    Re: Chlorine issues

    Stop!

    1. Let the FC drop below 10.

    2. Test and adjust pH first. Get to the low 7's using Borax.

    3. Test and adjust TA to about 70 using baking soda.

    4. Retest everything and post results for us.

    5. Resume SLAM.
    Last edited by Butterfly; 06-28-2014 at 10:32 AM. Reason: edited to add step 4
    TFP Moderator TF100 Test Kit TF100 TestKit YouTube Channel PoolMath
    You're done SLAMing when:
    1)You lose 1ppm or less FC overnight, & 2)You have .5ppm CC's or less, & 3)your water is clear.

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    Re: Chlorine issues

    Quote Originally Posted by stpatty View Post
    Yes. I was planning on using the chart from pool school and bringing FC up to the recommended shock level using liquid bleach, remove the remaining pucks from the chlorinator and adjusting daily with liquid until I can get the CYA down to 30-40 before returning the chlorinator pucks to service. I'll have some pH adjustments I'm sure of, and I feel certain I'll need to work on alkalinity as well.
    Any mods catch the "adjust daily until can get CYA down before returning to pucks? Pucks ADD CYA to water. Bleach/chlorine does NOT lower CYA...mods will suggest stop using pucks period. They are the source of high CYA
    Montgomery, AL
    27000 16 x 36 IG, Vinyl, Grecian, Hayward Sand filter, 1 HP Pentair whisperflo motor, Aqua Genie filter not by choice, no extra jets, Dolphin s300i robotic cleaner,Taylor K 2006 test kit, speed-stir which I couldn't live without!

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    Re: Chlorine issues

    I agree with Butterfly. Your PH and TA levels appear to be dangerously low and need to be fixed before you damage the pool.

    Also, what product have you been using to add chlorine?
    19K gal, vinyl, 1/2 HP WhisperFlo pump, 200 sqft cartridge filter, AutoPilot Digital SWG, Dolphin Dynamic cleaning robot
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    Re: Chlorine issues

    Well you don't need to wait for a moderator to inform the OP not to use the chlorinating tablets. Yes they add chlorine that dissipates daily but they also add CYA which is cumulative. That is the problem with them. You need the daily chlorine but you likely are already at or even above your desired CYA level if you've used them for any time. It only gets worse the longer you continue to use them.
    Leave the tabs in the garage, not the pool.

    The only way to lower CYA is to dump water out of the pool. See the Pool Math calculator or read up on CYA in Pool School.
    '70s IG Vinyl 32K gal, Lazy L, Hayward SuperPump 1.5hp 120V, S240 Sand Filter W/DE
    Solar Blanket, Well Water, Borax Added, TF-100 tester. ? too cold
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    Re: Chlorine issues

    Quote Originally Posted by smforte View Post
    Any mods catch the "adjust daily until can get CYA down before returning to pucks? Pucks ADD CYA to water. Bleach/chlorine does NOT lower CYA...mods will suggest stop using pucks period. They are the source of high CYA
    Yep, good catch

    stpatty, the pucks are what caused this pH/TA crash. They also caused the high CYA. You need to use another method, TFPC method, which involves adding chlorine without all the side effects! SWG or bleach/liquid chlorine with/without automation. We'll help you through this.

    But right now, address the pH and TA!
    TFP Moderator TF100 Test Kit TF100 TestKit YouTube Channel PoolMath
    You're done SLAMing when:
    1)You lose 1ppm or less FC overnight, & 2)You have .5ppm CC's or less, & 3)your water is clear.

    ~ One should not use a sledge hammer to swat a mosquito. ~

    If you found TFP helpful and we saved you money ... Become a TFP Supporter!

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    Re: Chlorine issues

    Quote Originally Posted by stpatty View Post
    Is it a viable option to stop using pucks and just adjust my chlorine levels accordingly with the CYA I currently have? Then adjust the chlorine levels with liquid bleach?
    Those of us that follow the TFP method use bleach for chlorine and a separate stabilizer (CYA) as needed.
    Pucks are rarely ever recommended unless it's a fresh fill and you need the CYA or maybe going on vacation and you put up with a little CYA you may not need just to get the chlorine while you're away.
    If you regularly use tablets for your chlorine you will always end up with too much CYA.
    '70s IG Vinyl 32K gal, Lazy L, Hayward SuperPump 1.5hp 120V, S240 Sand Filter W/DE
    Solar Blanket, Well Water, Borax Added, TF-100 tester. ? too cold
    1979, 275gal Conway Emerald Spa P-100-2, ES-2 Spa Pack, bromine floater, indoor
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    Please help keep the lights on, become a TFP Supporter!

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    Re: Chlorine issues

    stpatty, please respond to post #'s 12 and 14. Do this before you do anything else!

    Once the pH and TA are under control, please retest everything for us and post a full set of test results.

    Let's give OP an opportunity to get pH and TA under control and respond before we add more posts
    TFP Moderator TF100 Test Kit TF100 TestKit YouTube Channel PoolMath
    You're done SLAMing when:
    1)You lose 1ppm or less FC overnight, & 2)You have .5ppm CC's or less, & 3)your water is clear.

    ~ One should not use a sledge hammer to swat a mosquito. ~

    If you found TFP helpful and we saved you money ... Become a TFP Supporter!

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