New Member From AZ, Draining & Refilling Pool, Need Help.

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asusundevil

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LifeTime Supporter
Jun 24, 2014
126
Chandler, Arizona
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Hello there pool aficionados. I've owned an inground, 30k gallon, pebbletec surface, sand filtered pool with waterfall/grotto for 4 years. And once again this summer left me with a disgusting green pool. This round was so bad that I elected to drain it and start from scratch, as the water had not been changed since I purchased the home, again, 4 years ago. Literally, the pool is filling up as I post this message, and will likely be full by this time tomorrow night.

Immediate term: I want to prevent another algae bloom, which in AZ can strike in less than a week. So the initial advice I'm seeking is what to do until I'm able to purchase a comprehensive testing kit (my current kit tests only chlorine, PH, and alkalinity)? Given my limited testing resource I feel I may need to visit Leslie's Pool Supply and get suckered into blowing 200.00+ on chemicals. Let me know your thoughts.

Immediate-term, I need a recommendation on a reliable test kit.

Near-term, I've read that sand filters are the worst for a pool of my size, and that DE filters are the best. My previous home had a DE filter so I'm familiar with their degree of maintenance so am considering changing to this type of filter if this annual nightmare continue. A month ago I changed out the sand in my sand filter after noticing channeling (my sand filter is the Pentair Triton II - part# 140210) but simultaneously the algae bloom arrived so I didn't have a chance to measure the new sand's effectiveness. What is this community's consensus on sand filters for a pool of my size?

Thank you for your feedback. I hope this community inspires and empowers me to get control over my pool, which has been controlling me every summer for the past four years. :mad::mad:
 
Immediate #1. Order a great test kit in the TF-100 from tftestkits.net Check out Test Kit Comparison if you want numbers. The TF-100 provides all the test you need with proper amounts of reagents for testing over a longer period of time.

Immediate #2: Are you draining everything out, down to nothing? If so, I would do as much draining as possible, as quickly as you can at night and get water back in there ASAP. Summer sun in AZ is not kind to plaster pool surfaces. Keeping water in there as much as possible and not leaving it bare for very long is a necessity. A simultaneous drain from the top, fill on the bottom might be a good option but mixing of clean and old water may mean a longer process. You may not even need to drain all of it. The only way to know for sure is to get a handle on your chemistry, specifically your CYA level and your CH level as those levels can only be lowered by draining water. If you're dead set on a drain/refill, go simultaneous until you get a test kit and you may not even need to drain it all.

Immediate #3: I hate to say it but get your water tested at Leslie's to get a guesstimate of your CYA level. Don't pay any attention to products advised to change this or that level of FC, CH, TA... anything. Use that CYA as a starting point to see how much FC you need to get up to SLAM level based on the Chlorine/CYA SLAM Chart. Get a good stock of fresh bleach. I'd say 16+ gallons of fresh, 8.25% or 10%+ if available from a good source. Add enough to get to that level and keep the pool circulating. Add a gallon or two per day until the kit arrives. Only when you get accurate results from a good kit can you move forward with a plan, but until then, getting some bleach in the pool will help keep it from getting worse.

Sand filters are actually pretty good at dealing with a green/algae pool as you don't need to clean filters or constantly replenish DE during lots of backwashing needed during a SLAM. I'd stick with it until the pool is clear, maybe going to DE or Cartridges after, if you're so inclined.
 
Welcome to the forum. :wave:

Immediate: Put one gallon of Clorox in your pool each evening well after the sun is down. Repeat this until you get a test kit and post the numbers.
Leslies tests will likely not be of much help. Keep reading more on this forum and you will see a pattern of Pool Store testing that is a problem.

Near-term: Any of the three types of filters are fine. Go with what you are most familiar with. That said, the filter has nothing to do with your algae issues....that's Water chemistry...specifically, low chlorination. Post up the numbers from your new kit and we'll all help you get your pool clear and then keep it clear.
 
I began fully draining the pool yesterday morning, with completion at ~1130pm. The pool's pebbletec surface wasn't exposed under the sun for more than a couple hours. This morning the chlorine bath and scrubbing of the pebbletec commenced at 7am for 3 hours. I immediately began filling the pool thereafter and ran a second hose attached to a sprinkler to keep the surface cool. Fortunately no cracks, and I've not taken my eyes off the pool since this morning. I did find some rust stains in the faux rock waterfall feature which I immediate repaired, as well as some tile grout. It really is great to stand inside your pool while empty and the unique vantage point it offers.

I really need to study up on all these acronyms ??. I typically purchase liquid chlorine from Home Depot and I believe it's 8.25% concentration. If I'm understanding you correctly, I need to dump a couple gallons per day until I'm able to use the TF-100? I ask because my kids are already bugging me to swim this weekend. How quickly can that kit make it to AZ if I order it tomorrow? Is it available via Amazon? I ask because as an Amazon Prime member, I can get free 2-day shipping.

Interesting commentary on sand filters. I've heard both good and bad opinions. I suppose it doesn't matter how great your filter operates if it's filtering gunk 24/7. It can do only so much.

Thanks for the initial advice. Looking forward to hearing and posting more.
 
Likely a little quicker to order the TF-100 from poolsupplyworld.com

Or you can find the K2006 on Amazon, but you will quickly needed to reorder more of some of the reagents. The TF-100 is the better deal.

For a completely new start, your CYA is zero, so get around 40ppm of CYA dissolving immediately and add bleach every evening at least.

Just add 2ppm of FC right away and the kids can swim after 30 minutes.
 
Quick question as I acclimate to this community's vernacular. When you write "bleach" do you essentially mean liquid chlorine, which essentially is a stronger concentration of bleach?

And where do I find a chart with the definitions for all these acronyms?

I'm going to email that pool supply site and ask how quickly they can deliver the TF-100. Crossing fingers. Thanks for that referral.
 
I couldn't get the TF-100 for delivery before July 1st so had to go with the K2006, which is scheduled to arrive Friday. I'll post the detailed results after I figure out how to use it.

I tested the water tonight and it is virtually devoid of any chlorine, and the PH was very high. I'm going to take a sample to Leslie's tomorrow just as a curiosity fulfillment and try to avoid being coerced into blowing a couple hundred on unnecessary chemicals.

Should I begin dumping some bleach into my pool immediately, with some muriatic acid to bring down the PH? I know there is additional detail about my water composition I need to post but I'm petrified of another algae bloom sprout.
 

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Address the pH first. When your FC is over 10, the pH test is unreliable. When you SLAM, your FC will be above that continuously so adjust that first. Then keep some bleach in there until you have a kit and can check chemistry. Post compete results from the kit testing when you get it.
 
I dumped two gallons of liquid chlorine and 3 pints of muriatic acid earlier this evening. Chlorine read is good but PH is still high. Also tested alkalinity, which was high at 180. Test kit is on schedule for delivery tomorrow and will post results after work. Anything I need to do in the meantime? The water looks perfect and I really don't want it to turn quickly under these 106 degree days in AZ.
 
I had to leave town on business so just today was able to unbox the K2006 kit. Let me just say that the instructions are brutally confusing. I feel as if I'm re-taking Chemistry 130 in college. I have no idea where to begin or what my overall goal is for my pool. And it does an atrocious job at providing the reader with targets for his/her pool's water chemistry and what to use to balance what is imbalanced. So frustrating! This shouldn't be so **** difficult.

I'll give the kit a shot tomorrow and will attempt to post my results.
 
I can't address the difficulty of the K-2006. I bought the TF-100, and the instructions have been dumbed down for us non chemistry majors. i.e. Put two drops of this, mix, put five drops of this, mix, add this a drop at a time until the color changes. Very simple. I'm sure someone will be along shortly to help with the additional complexity of that kit. As far as goals for you pool numbers, and what to do to correct them, check out pool math. You put in how big your pool is, what type of pool it is, and select troublefreepool.com under suggested goals, and it will tell you a range for your numbers. You put in what your current numbers are, then put a number in the range it gives you as your goal, and it tells you what to add to get there.
 
Ignore the book that came with the test kit. Use the label inside the lid to run your tests, and PoolMath, which tells you what the levels should be and what to do to get them in range. That's all you need. (I have the larger version of your same kit). Easy Peasy. The bottles are (or should be) in the box arranged in the order you use them, front to back. Double check to make sure as you use them. It is really much easier than it looks.

Breathe! It's gonna be okay!
 
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