New pool owner... lets get it started owwww! :)

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undrpressure23

undrpressure23

0
May 26, 2014
98
Newport News, Va
:p
What's up guys and gals, I'm starting my first "SLAM and maintain" to make my pool clear again. I've had the dilemma of my local Leslie's pool store racking up a bill after giving them multiple attempts to clear my pool... Time to take matters in my own hands.

I've ordered my TF-100 test kit and should be here Thursday this week, also bought 25 gallons of 8.25% bleach (Wal-Mart brand), and some muriatic acid from HD.

- First question, when do you take readings to get your "shock level" reading vs. "FC" reading?



Readings (have a Leslie's /Taylor test kit)
FC: 0
CC: 0
PH: 7.8
TA: 90~100
CH: should I be concerned with this yet?

-Matt
 
scott.MI said:
Maybe I will be the only one, but I don't understand what your asking exactly. Shock level reading vs FC reading? Shock level is just a term for raising your FC to a higher point to destroy organics, but your still testing your FC.
Click to expand...

Like on this post below

"I waited an hour after Test #1 instead of 30 minutes, since we were in the middle of supper! Here are my new numbers:

Test #2:
SLAM: 16 ppm FC
FC: 14 ppm
CC: 0.5 ppm"
 
What is the current condition of your pool water?

In your first post I see you don't have a CYA reading, so that will be something to definitely do, then you should just go ahead and use your new tf-100 and run all the tests.. (can skip the fas-dpd chlorine test if your not adding any chlorine you know it will be zero, and you can confirm that with your OTO (yellow color matching test)

So to start your slam, you will need to get your CYA reading and use the CYA/chlorine chart to figure out your SLAM level. Use pool math, calculate how much chlorine to add to raise your FC to your newly found SLAM level. The standard beginning time between tests is 1 hour. When you retest your FC after that first hour...use your test results to raise your FC back to SLAM level.

After a couple of hours, and a couple of tests, you will get an idea of how fast your chlorine is being consumed and can adjust time in between tests accordingly. Some pools will consume 7 ppm in just an hour, while others will only consume 2. Just test often enough (as possible) to keep FC levels at or above your slam target for as much time as possible. You will also consume more chlorine during the day from sunlight than you would during night when the sun's down so your time will vary based on that too.
 
undrpressure23 said:
Test #2:
SLAM: 16 ppm FC
FC: 14 ppm
CC: 0.5 ppm"
Click to expand...

The SLAM line is listing his target FC for the slam process, as determined by his CYA level. So that line isn't a reading, it is just a target. He is listing it each time so that people reading the thread don't have to continually go back and reread previous posts to find out what the target is.
 
Not sure if my response was exactly what you were asking but here is some other info...comments in red below

undrpressure23 said:
Like on this post below

"I waited an hour after Test #1 instead of 30 minutes, since we were in the middle of supper! Here are my new numbers:

Test #2:
SLAM: 16 ppm FC (this is the pool owners target slam level based on the CYA test and using the CYA/chlorine chart . After every test they add chlorine to raise it to 16
FC: 14 ppm (This is the actual FC test results of test #2. It shows that FC went from 16 down to 14 and they will now raise it back to 16 and test again in an hour.
CC: 0.5 ppm"
Click to expand...
 
undrpressure23 said:
Oops forgot that one current CYA: 70.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Be aware, the Pool store is rarely correct on the CYA test. Please post a CYA test from the TF-100 once you get it and we can help you from there.
If it is high, you will likely have to drain some water. 70 is too high IMO already and I would drain ~40%. I wouldn't do anything until you test for CYA yourself.
 
rick6668 said:
Be aware, the Pool store is rarely correct on the CYA test. Please post a CYA test from the TF-100 once you get it and we can help you from there.
If it is high, you will likely have to drain some water. 70 is too high IMO already and I would drain ~40%. I wouldn't do anything until you test for CYA yourself.
Click to expand...

This is my own CYA test result, not the pool store. The kit I currently has the ability to test CYA, (7ml pool water then add reagent R-0013 to increase level to 14ml, wait til black dot slighly disappears)

If I do lower and refill, what CYA level should I shoot for?
 

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undrpressure23 said:
This is my own CYA test result, not the pool store. The kit I currently has the ability to test CYA, (7ml pool water then add reagent R-0013 to increase level to 14ml, wait til black dot slighly disappears)

If I do lower and refill, what CYA level should I shoot for?
Click to expand...

Are you sure about the slightly disappears part? I have never heard of any kit testing CYA that way...it's always been when it just completely disappears. If it's slightly disappears at 70, you would be less then 70 if you kept filling until it completely disappears.

Your target CYA will depend on your pools condition...green swamp or blue and cloudy, as well as water cost and if you want a lower slam target(less bleach) or if your okay with higher slam target (more bleach).

Check into your CYA testing instructions and also I haven't seen you say what condition your water is yet.

From the online instructions of a Taylor K-2006 test kit. "Just disappears = fill until it starts disappearing then little by little until it's gone.
Cyanuric Acid Test

1. Rinse and fill CYA dispensing bottle (#9191) to 7 mL mark with
water to be tested.

2. Add R-0013 to 14 mL mark. Cap and mix for 30 seconds.

3. Slowly transfer cloudy solution to small comparator tube until
black dot on bottom just disappears when viewed from top.

4. Read tube at liquid level on back of comparator block. Record
reading as parts per million (ppm) cyanuric acid.
Click to expand...
 
scott.MI said:
Are you sure about the slightly disappears part? I have never heard of any kit testing CYA that way...it's always been when it just completely disappears. If it's slightly disappears at 70, you would be less then 70 if you kept filling until it completely disappears.

Your target CYA will depend on your pools condition...green swamp or blue and cloudy, as well as water cost and if you want a lower slam target(less bleach) or if your okay with higher slam target (more bleach).

Check into your CYA testing instructions and also I haven't seen you say what condition your water is yet.

From the online instructions of a Taylor K-2006 test kit. "Just disappears = fill until it starts disappearing then little by little until it's gone.
Click to expand...

Yes this is what im doing.. I was able to get home earlier today and found that my test came in, CYA adjusted by 10ppm (is this common?), pool is cloudy green/bluish color.

FC= .5
PH= 8.0
CC= 1
TA= 95 ~ 100
CYA = 80

I would like to get my CYA to 55, so im going to remove/refill tonight.
 
So are you sticking with your cya at 60 for the SLAM process? Not sure if your last post was just an update post or if you were looking for guidance.

Retest PH after 30 min and if it's down to 7.2-7.5, begin the SLAM. If sticking at 60 CYA you can start tonight with 24 as your slam target.
 
Start your SLAM tonight. You will get the added benefit of working under the cover of darkness. :goodjob:
 
Slam goal: 34
FC= 25ppm (after 1 hr of beginning SLAM)

added 102oz bleach

Check again before leaving for work... Thanks so much for showing the light at the end of the tunnel TFPC Forum. Wifes P*ssed but... maybe another thread to discuss wives and there greatness LoL :drown:
 
Last edited:
An hour was plenty of time to circulate for your pool, that's not the problem.

The math was right for the 387 ounces. That means you either got some REALLY REALLY fresh and over strength bleach, gallons are wrong for your pool, or testing error. If you added 387 ounces and got up to 50ppm and your gallons are accurate....it would have been more like 12.5% strength in those bottles.
 

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