Good morning everyone, when swimming this past saturday I went to turn on the pool pump to get the water circulating and received quite a jolt from it. I've never had this before.....and I believe I may have touched one of the wires behind the timer itself...anyone else ever experience this and is there some kind of cover i can put over the wires to keep anyone else from doing the same thing when they turn it on while i'm not there.....thanks for any help....
Shocked when turning on pool pump (literally)
- Thread starter clg82
- Start date
What kind of timer do you have? Most of them come with a shield of some kind that protects you from the live wires.
haha well jason it looks just like this timer in a thread that you first responded too three years ago
http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/27655-Questions-about-Variable-Speed-Pumps/page2
The common cover for those were a piece of thin cardboard. Thin plastics may have replaced that now. There is a mounting hole for the cover to be attached to, in the middle of t wire block itself.
haha well jason it looks just like this timer in a thread that you first responded too three years ago
http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/27655-Questions-about-Variable-Speed-Pumps/page2
The timer in the picture is missing the safety shield that covers the terminals and wires. Here's what one looks like with the shield in place.
any place to buy the cover to replace it for safety reasons or do i need to buy a whole new timer?
I've never seen the covers for sale, but I'd get in touch with the company. Businesses will often give you safety devices to cover themselves.
I have a GE timer that brings the lever for the manual override outside the case which has some safety benefits. It might be a very simple swap. Got it from HD. If your interested, I can look up the part number.
It is a thin piece of plastic ... you could likely cut the side out of an orange juice container (or similar), poke a hole in it and put a screw through it.
- May 22, 2013
- 2,796
- Pool Size
- 12000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
They are available, I'd try some place like HomeDepot, Menards ..... Or cut one out of a plastic milk container. I warned someone about it and they did find a place recently to find one.
They have a black one and clear. This is just an example to "see" what you're looking for. Not sure if this is the exact part number for your clock as you didn't post a model number but I think they are pretty generic as the design hasn't changed much in decades.
http://www.epoolshop.com/intermatic_time_clock_parts.aspx
Number #4 in the image.
They have a black one and clear. This is just an example to "see" what you're looking for. Not sure if this is the exact part number for your clock as you didn't post a model number but I think they are pretty generic as the design hasn't changed much in decades.
http://www.epoolshop.com/intermatic_time_clock_parts.aspx
Number #4 in the image.
Attachments
- May 22, 2013
- 2,796
- Pool Size
- 12000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Do you have a GFI in the system and is it 240 or 120 volt ??
If you don't have a GFI in the circuit I would really recommend it.
If you don't have a GFI in the circuit I would really recommend it.
I have no idea, but I can take a picture of the front panel on the switch if that would help you find out.....
The GFCI would not be in the switch/timer. It would be in the breaker box ... or maybe that is what you meant by switch.
Given your responses, I am not sure how much electrical DIY you should be doing, it can be pretty dangerous.
Given your responses, I am not sure how much electrical DIY you should be doing, it can be pretty dangerous.
- May 22, 2013
- 2,796
- Pool Size
- 12000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
If you can safely take a picture of the circuit breakers in your breaker box and identify which one is the one for the pool pump we should be able to figure what voltage and if it's a GFI.
It might be helpful if you added the pool info to : http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/165-getting-started
Please put the following information in your signature.
The size of your pool in gallons
If your pool is an AG (above ground) or IG (in ground)
If it's IG, tell us if it's vinyl, plaster/pebble, or fiberglass
The type of filter you have (sand, DE, cartridge) and, if you know, the brand and model of the filter.
If you know, please tell us the brand and model of the pump, and mention if is it a two speed or variable speed pump.
Date of pool build/install, particularly important if less then a year old.
Other significant accessories or options, such as a spa , SWG, or cleaner
It might be helpful if you added the pool info to : http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/165-getting-started
Please put the following information in your signature.
The size of your pool in gallons
If your pool is an AG (above ground) or IG (in ground)
If it's IG, tell us if it's vinyl, plaster/pebble, or fiberglass
The type of filter you have (sand, DE, cartridge) and, if you know, the brand and model of the filter.
If you know, please tell us the brand and model of the pump, and mention if is it a two speed or variable speed pump.
Date of pool build/install, particularly important if less then a year old.
Other significant accessories or options, such as a spa , SWG, or cleaner
Since this appears to be a 220V only setup (look at the pictures in the original thread the OP referenced) it doesn't look like there is a neutral in the box.
Good point. A 230V GFCI checks for voltage differences between each leg, not between the hot and neutral.
So if you grabbed both LINE wires, you would get shock, but the GFCI may not trip. If you grabbed one LINE and the ground, then the GFCI should trip.
I highly doubt there is a GFCI breaker in this case.
In any case, it does not matter, this thread has taken a huge tangent, the OP has not said that the pump is not currently working, so there is no point in checking breakers etc, unless they want to upgrade to a GFCI breaker which might have prevented the jolt. They just need to add a cover to they can not touch anything.
So if you grabbed both LINE wires, you would get shock, but the GFCI may not trip. If you grabbed one LINE and the ground, then the GFCI should trip.
I highly doubt there is a GFCI breaker in this case.
In any case, it does not matter, this thread has taken a huge tangent, the OP has not said that the pump is not currently working, so there is no point in checking breakers etc, unless they want to upgrade to a GFCI breaker which might have prevented the jolt. They just need to add a cover to they can not touch anything.