I don't have any test numbers what I can say is the pool hasn't been open in 2yrs it's full of leaves and smells of stagnenant water full of tadpoles I've been scooping out the bottom but can't see what I'm doing and the sand hasn't been changed in at least 3 yrs I spent a few hundred dollars last year to open it but couldn't get the water to clear doing everything the store said to do should I change the filter sand before I get it scooped out will this help with the water color or should I shock it so I can see what I'm trying to clean I'm looking into where to get and what test kits to get just can't wait on a mail order I will provide as many answers as I can this is my first pool and right now I hate it
I'm so ready to fill in the pool
- Thread starter solost
- Start date
Welcome to TFP, you are at the right place. The people on here have helped many others in the same situation.You need to get your test kit ordered I suggest the TF 100 XL because you are going to need to SLAM your pool,read pool school and continue getting the gunk out of your pool.If you order your kit tonight you should have it by Wed ,I live in Arkansas so it should be 2 day shipping for you also.There will be others along soon to help and advise you, everyone on here lves these kind of stories. Good luck you can do this,and stay away from the pool store.
Been there. Do you have a dip net? If you do, spend the time waiting on your test kit raking the bottom of your pool to remove any organic material. Getting all those dead leaves out is a must. They will use up so much of your chlorine that it will be hard to keep it at shock level. Don't give up and don't rely on the pool store. This site will get you through. I have opened what appeared to be a sewer and was swimming in crystal clear water within 2 weeks. This year, it was 5 days and $30 worth of bleach.
Is that algaecide foam on top of the water?
Is that algaecide foam on top of the water?
greetings fellow Okie... and welcome to TFP!
like already said, Pool School and the SLAM method. Start stocking up on bleach. Best deal here in Oklahoma on bleach is Great Value at Walmart. 8.25% at about $3 bucks a bottle. dont buy scented bleach, the Great Value blue label is what you want.
Also, the secret to never opening up to a green nasty pool is early opening and late closing. Here in Oklahoma thats going to be opening your pool late March, early April and closing late September to early October. That green nasty algea starts forming at water temps 60 degrees and above, so open before it gets that high and close only after it drops below it.
like already said, Pool School and the SLAM method. Start stocking up on bleach. Best deal here in Oklahoma on bleach is Great Value at Walmart. 8.25% at about $3 bucks a bottle. dont buy scented bleach, the Great Value blue label is what you want.
Also, the secret to never opening up to a green nasty pool is early opening and late closing. Here in Oklahoma thats going to be opening your pool late March, early April and closing late September to early October. That green nasty algea starts forming at water temps 60 degrees and above, so open before it gets that high and close only after it drops below it.
Unfortunately, you'll have to wait for a mail order test kit unless you can find a Taylor K-2006 somewhere locally. The test kits you find at pool stores and big box stores don't test for the chemicals you'll need to know about if you want that algae gone and to keep it away. Fortunately the recommended test kit (http://tftestkits.net/TF-100-Test-Kit-p4.html) ships very fast and if you order it now, will probably have it Wednesday or Thursday. Get the XL option because you'll be using up a lot of reagent until the pool is clear. The speedstir option is also very awesome and I wouldn't want to test without it.
You do sound like you are frustrated.
Know that this will not be a fast and easy process no matter how you try and go about it. You probably won't have crystal clear water for a couple weeks. It just takes TIME and the knowledge of what you need to do. Order the test kit and read "Pool School" (link at the top of the page on the right) while you wait on it to arrive.
You don't need to mess with the sand, it probably just needs a good backwash. Until you get your test kit and tell us the results there's not much we can tell you. For now, you can start adding bleach or liquid shock. Don't use powdered shock or tablets for now. Just regular unscented bleach from the grocery store. I'd add about two jugs now and then another each day until the test kit comes. Backwash the filter good then take note of the PSI on the gauge. That's your "clean" PSI. You'll want to backwash again every time it increases by about 20%. Get a leaf rake (like this: http://www.amazon.com/Pro-Strength-Pool-Leaf-Rake-Net/dp/B002WKJBI8) and just start blindly scooping out whatever you can on the bottom. The more you get out the faster this process will go.
It will be a process. There's not magical way to fix it NOW, our way or the pool store way. You just need to be patient. It will get crystal clear if you follow the advice here, including getting a good quality test kit.
OK, I lied a little. There is a "magical" way to fix it now and that's draining, cleaning and refilling. Just know that there is a small danger of damaging your pool depending on a few things, mostly whether there is ground water under your pool. If there is, emptying the pool could cause it to "float" out of the ground like a boat or cause water to get behind the liner - if it's a vinyl liner pool. We can help you through that process as well, but know you'll need to pay for water to refill and the chemicals will run a couple hundred dollars or so. It is a lot faster, though.
You do sound like you are frustrated.
Know that this will not be a fast and easy process no matter how you try and go about it. You probably won't have crystal clear water for a couple weeks. It just takes TIME and the knowledge of what you need to do. Order the test kit and read "Pool School" (link at the top of the page on the right) while you wait on it to arrive.You don't need to mess with the sand, it probably just needs a good backwash. Until you get your test kit and tell us the results there's not much we can tell you. For now, you can start adding bleach or liquid shock. Don't use powdered shock or tablets for now. Just regular unscented bleach from the grocery store. I'd add about two jugs now and then another each day until the test kit comes. Backwash the filter good then take note of the PSI on the gauge. That's your "clean" PSI. You'll want to backwash again every time it increases by about 20%. Get a leaf rake (like this: http://www.amazon.com/Pro-Strength-Pool-Leaf-Rake-Net/dp/B002WKJBI8) and just start blindly scooping out whatever you can on the bottom. The more you get out the faster this process will go.
It will be a process. There's not magical way to fix it NOW, our way or the pool store way. You just need to be patient. It will get crystal clear if you follow the advice here, including getting a good quality test kit.
OK, I lied a little. There is a "magical" way to fix it now and that's draining, cleaning and refilling. Just know that there is a small danger of damaging your pool depending on a few things, mostly whether there is ground water under your pool. If there is, emptying the pool could cause it to "float" out of the ground like a boat or cause water to get behind the liner - if it's a vinyl liner pool. We can help you through that process as well, but know you'll need to pay for water to refill and the chemicals will run a couple hundred dollars or so. It is a lot faster, though.
Welcome to TFP!
I too will recommend the TF-100 kit from testkits.net and the XL option so you get enough of what you need since your pool is going to need frequent testing! That way you won't run out of the testing reagents and have to wait for refills to come in the mail!
We help people with these every day. If you want to get away from spending all that money at the pool store and still having a green mess you've found the right place!!
We can help you turn that stinky mess into a sparkling pool that you will love and the days of hating it will be behind you.
Like gtnos said, opening early enough and closing late enough is the name of the game for preventing this. We'll teach you how to maintain it during the season and you'll never have to see this expensive mess again!
Don't worry about your sand. Very rarely does sand need to be changed out. It might benefit from a deep cleaning (a pretty simple task) but that would come later.
First things first, order one of the recommended test kits. Yes, you can get a Taylor K-2006 as it has all the right tests that we use here but a warning, it comes with tiny bottles (cute and handy) but you will definitely need to buy refills very quickly so even though it costs a little less than the TF-100 XL option you'll have to order again almost immediately for refills if you go that route which is why we recommend the TF-100 XL option (tftestkits.net) for those in your situation. It's totally up to you.
While you're waiting for the kit to come keep scooping out whatever you can. Like aasbury said, anything you can get out now (Even if you can't see what you're doing) is going to help. The more solid gunk there is, the more the chlorine has to work on.
This can definitely be done and it can be a one time thing (never have a swamp again after this!) because while you're cleaning this mess you're going to learn how to maintain it and you'll see that it's a whole lot simpler and cheaper than the pool store experience has led you to believe!
Click on the Pool School link at the top of the page and read the article "The ABCs of Water Chemistry" to start to get an idea of what is what with the water but don't worry if it's overwhelming. We're here and you can ask questions about anything you don't understand.
If you are ready to kick the pool store to the curb we're ready to help!
Overview...
#1 decide if you want to do it.... (come on, you know you want to!)
#2 order a test kit (everyone's gonna recommend that TF-100 with XL option!)
#3 start/resume scooping out any muck or solid stuff you can while you wait for the kit
#4 stock up on regular household bleach because you're gonna need it!
#5 post test results when your kit arrives and we'll take it from there!
#6 (this one will take some work to get to but once you're there...) enjoy your new sparkly pool!
I too will recommend the TF-100 kit from testkits.net and the XL option so you get enough of what you need since your pool is going to need frequent testing! That way you won't run out of the testing reagents and have to wait for refills to come in the mail!
We help people with these every day. If you want to get away from spending all that money at the pool store and still having a green mess you've found the right place!!
We can help you turn that stinky mess into a sparkling pool that you will love and the days of hating it will be behind you.
Like gtnos said, opening early enough and closing late enough is the name of the game for preventing this. We'll teach you how to maintain it during the season and you'll never have to see this expensive mess again!
Don't worry about your sand. Very rarely does sand need to be changed out. It might benefit from a deep cleaning (a pretty simple task) but that would come later.
First things first, order one of the recommended test kits. Yes, you can get a Taylor K-2006 as it has all the right tests that we use here but a warning, it comes with tiny bottles (cute and handy) but you will definitely need to buy refills very quickly so even though it costs a little less than the TF-100 XL option you'll have to order again almost immediately for refills if you go that route which is why we recommend the TF-100 XL option (tftestkits.net) for those in your situation. It's totally up to you.
While you're waiting for the kit to come keep scooping out whatever you can. Like aasbury said, anything you can get out now (Even if you can't see what you're doing) is going to help. The more solid gunk there is, the more the chlorine has to work on.
This can definitely be done and it can be a one time thing (never have a swamp again after this!) because while you're cleaning this mess you're going to learn how to maintain it and you'll see that it's a whole lot simpler and cheaper than the pool store experience has led you to believe!
Click on the Pool School link at the top of the page and read the article "The ABCs of Water Chemistry" to start to get an idea of what is what with the water but don't worry if it's overwhelming. We're here and you can ask questions about anything you don't understand.
If you are ready to kick the pool store to the curb we're ready to help!
Overview...
#1 decide if you want to do it.... (come on, you know you want to!)
#2 order a test kit (everyone's gonna recommend that TF-100 with XL option!)
#3 start/resume scooping out any muck or solid stuff you can while you wait for the kit
#4 stock up on regular household bleach because you're gonna need it!
#5 post test results when your kit arrives and we'll take it from there!
#6 (this one will take some work to get to but once you're there...) enjoy your new sparkly pool!
Ok I'm talking to my wife about the test kit so it's ok to start adding some bleach to it till that comes in my clean psi was 10 but now it is only getting to like 7 with air bubbles coming out of the return jet the gasket to the pump basket is smashed on one side and water leaks out of the plumbing from the pump to the filter.I do have a great net it gets so much I'm afraid I'll break it.
Excellent, and welcome to the forum!
You will be amazed at how easy this is once you get the hang, and things get lined out. Hang in there and start trying to absorb all you can. There will be folks around to help with questions when you have them. As long as you are learning and trying to do this, we will enjoy helping you get it straight.
You will be amazed at how easy this is once you get the hang, and things get lined out. Hang in there and start trying to absorb all you can. There will be folks around to help with questions when you have them. As long as you are learning and trying to do this, we will enjoy helping you get it straight.
Good deal!
Well you have another project while you wait on the test kit... fix that plumbing!
Just keep at it, especially getting as much gunk out as you can. You can add bleach, no problem, it's just that without accurate free chlorine and CYA test results it's hard to say how much is "effective" for your situation. Don't go overboard but you can start adding now if you want to try and get a bit of a jump start on it.
Well you have another project while you wait on the test kit... fix that plumbing!
Just keep at it, especially getting as much gunk out as you can. You can add bleach, no problem, it's just that without accurate free chlorine and CYA test results it's hard to say how much is "effective" for your situation. Don't go overboard but you can start adding now if you want to try and get a bit of a jump start on it.
General questions in some issues that have me a little worried everyone is talking about how much they test the water for the next 2wks I'm working 6am to 6pm 5 days a week which means while I'm at work and can't monitor the pool in the sun I'm going to be losing ch fast what should I do for that
No that started coming out of the filter return when I started it up
- - - Updated - - -
- - - Updated - - -
No that started coming out of the filter when I started it up
That's a pretty common problem actually -- but if you start the SLAM on Friday night (or whenever your two not-working days begin) and test / add frequently for a few hours then resume the next morning I think you should be past the need for frequent testing by the time you have to go back to work.
On a positive note, going back to work will seem more attractive than before, especially if you brush & vacuum enough
Ok reading a different thread about fixing a swamp there was a time she kind of stalled out for awhile and couldn't figure out why till she pulled a old pole covered in alge out of the pool then things picked up again. Last spring we had been using a regular tarp to cover the pool for winter held down with bungee cords and various rocks and a concrete bench that has separate legs and seat. One of my dogs loved playing on the tarp and the bench ended up falling into the pool I don't think it did any damage since I kept a close eye on the water level to make sure it wasn't dropping but how big of a problem will this be on getting things cleared up. What about tadpoles I have a ton of them living in my swamp
Last edited:
The tadpoles won't last long when you start the slam. Unfortunately they'll turn into more organic material to be skimmed or filtered out but such is the case with swamp clean ups!
Anything solid you can get out of there is going to help the process along. Whether it's leaves, sticks, old pool equipment, furniture or... underwear! (There's another member cleaning up a swamp who found underwear in hers! )
The main thing is to try to get what you can even if you can't see it. Do your best and when you start the slam if at some point it stalls you can cross that bridge when you get to it.
Anything solid you can get out of there is going to help the process along. Whether it's leaves, sticks, old pool equipment, furniture or... underwear! (There's another member cleaning up a swamp who found underwear in hers! )
The main thing is to try to get what you can even if you can't see it. Do your best and when you start the slam if at some point it stalls you can cross that bridge when you get to it.
as the guys have said stock up on bleach, 10 to 20 gallons
scoop debris out until you can't take it any more and then repeat tomorrow
i am going to go against the flow here and say don't add any bleach until you have test numbers
just in case you have really high CYA or need to adjust PH first
any bleach added at this point will just be wasted
when you do start adding bleach you will need to hit it hard and keep at it every couple of hours
scoop debris out until you can't take it any more and then repeat tomorrow
i am going to go against the flow here and say don't add any bleach until you have test numbers
just in case you have really high CYA or need to adjust PH first
any bleach added at this point will just be wasted
when you do start adding bleach you will need to hit it hard and keep at it every couple of hours
Last edited:
I agree with holding off on the bleach until you have good test numbers. If you have really high CYA you will need to do a drain/fill to lower it, so any bleach you've thrown in is pretty much wasted.
The nice thing about deadlines, if you miss it you won't drop dead. If you miss it, she will get over it eventually.