Electrical help

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SoggyCashew

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Jun 22, 2014
16
West Virginia
Hello, My wife decided we needed a 24' pool and BAM :whip: were having one installed this week.... The installers are wanting electric ran to the location which I'm a DIY and that's no problem but I'm confused on what all needs done. First off at the location I will be having a pool pump and a electric heat pump and I also need a convenience outlet so I want it there as well.

Now I opened the pump box and it has a 3 prong plug on the end not a twist lock like I have been reading that is required for pools so that's issue one. Second, is Do i just get a GFCI breaker at the service panel run the wire or use a regular breaker and GFCI at the outlet?

Next, the Heat pump. It mentions nowhere it needs to have a GFCI do I need one? Also, should I run a 25 amp or 30 amp breaker?

Last... What would be the best way to wire this? Thanks.....

Specs Of Parts:

Pentair Sand Dollar 22" Sand Filter with 1-1/2 hp Dynamo Pump .PDF

Aqua Pro 500 Heat Pump .PDF
 
In order to answer your question concerning the wiring. One would need to know the distance from the service panel to the location as well as the AMPs that will be drawn. Additionally you will need to account for amp in rush when the motor starts. From my past experience it is cheaper to use GFCI outlets rather than GFCI circuit breakers.
 
Per 2008 National Electrical Code for permanent pools (pools capable of more than 42" depth):

No pump outlet within 6' of the pool. Pump outlets from 6' to 20' must be twist-lock. Pump wiring must be at least #12 AWG, must be separate conductors (no romex), and the ground wire must be insulated. The pump wiring must be in hard conduit. This wiring is dedicated to the pump - nothing else attached. If memory serves, it must also be one size larger than would normally be required. In other words, if your amperage/distance would normally require #12, you must use #10. There must be a disconnect on the pump circuit within 50' and within line of sight from the pump.

There must be a convenience outlet within 6' and 20' of the pool. This outlet wiring can be UF.

Conductive pool walls must be bonded to pump motor using #8 bare copper wire at 4 equidistant points. This bonding wire must be buried 18" - 24" outside the pool wall, and buried 4" - 6" deep.

The pool water must be "bonded" by 9 square inches of metallic surface. Your pool heater will provide this.

Of course everything must be GFCI, and outlets must be in a cover that is weatherproof when in use (the bubble kind).

I can't find a definitive answer on the question can the convenience outlet share the same circuit as the heater.

I *think* all of the wiring can share the same conduit if you want to do that.

You might want to talk to your local electrical inspector to see if your locality has more requirements.
 
GomezAddams said:
Per 2008 National Electrical Code for permanent pools (pools capable of more than 42" depth):
Click to expand...

Thank you I have read those compliance's but yours is well explained. The funny thing is I went to call the inspector and they said they don't care about how the pool is wired they care about how its installed and on the permit is mentions nothing about wiring so they don't even check that.

POPPA S, I already have the permit and it is approved im just awaiting a signature actually tomorrow. Thanks!
 
GomezAddams said:
BTW, I've questioned at least a dozen electricians as to *why* the conductors have to be separate, and why the earth ground has to be insulated. None knew why. One person guessed that it might be due to heat dissipation.
Click to expand...

It is not for heat dissipation. There is no "romex" type of wire readily available with an insulated ground wire. Any outdoor installation needs to have the ground insulated. If the outlet for the pump is inside a structure there is no requirement for this. The wire used to feed the outdoor receptacle has to have a rating of THWN on it.
 
The ground wire is insulated to precent ground loops. Ideally, the ground wires should all connect to the earth in a single place, at the main panel ground rod(s) (or sub-panel for detached structures with a sub-panel). In outdoor situations a bare ground wire risks creating a separate earth location. Two connections to earth allow ground currents to flow through the ground wires, causing corrosion and eventual failure.
 

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danpik said:
It is not for heat dissipation. There is no "romex" type of wire readily available with an insulated ground wire. Any outdoor installation needs to have the ground insulated. If the outlet for the pump is inside a structure there is no requirement for this. The wire used to feed the outdoor receptacle has to have a rating of THWN on it.
Click to expand...

The code (at least the version prior to 2008, which I used to have), specifically says that the wires must be separate conductors.

- - - Updated - - -

JasonLion said:
The ground wire is insulated to precent ground loops. Ideally, the ground wires should all connect to the earth in a single place, at the main panel ground rod(s) (or sub-panel for detached structures with a sub-panel). In outdoor situations a bare ground wire risks creating a separate earth location. Two connections to earth allow ground currents to flow through the ground wires, causing corrosion and eventual failure.
Click to expand...

How would you get a ground loop inside conduit? Non-conductive conduit wouldn't, well, conduct. Steel conduit would be a faraday cage.
 
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