Conversion FC & CC Readings Help!! With Pics!

[mindgrasp]

I am just starting the conversion from Baquacrap to Chlorine. I have added three doses of Chlorine 6% and am still not getting a FC reading.... It is zero.... However, I can definitely smell chlorine and am getting a high CC reading of about 10...... Any advice on why this is happening would be great? I am going to be putting in another dose and will again check the levels..... My test kit is a Taylor kit that has been recommended on the site.... so I am kind of lost at what is going on...... Help!

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

Re: Conversion FC & CC Readings Help!!

Is your kit the taylor kit 2005 or 2006? You really need the FAS-DPD to have speedy conversion....

Can you post a full set of test results? Keep shocking your pool to a FC of 15, using the pool calculator for dosing.... and focus on keeping your pool at shock level....you may have to add bleach every hour or more to keep it to 15....you'll get there, a conversion takes time. Have you read the other recent threads on converting? POP - lots of POP - pool owner patience!

Welcome

 

[JasonLion]

Re: Conversion FC & CC Readings Help!!

A baquacil conversion can require huge amounts of chlorine, quantities on the order of 50-100 gallons are fairly common, and more than a couple of days.

From the sound of things you are moving along well and just need to keep bringing the FC level up to 15 as frequently as is practical. In the first stage all the chlorine you add will get consumed very very quickly. You can test the FC level and add chlorine as frequently as once an hour.

 

[mindgrasp]

Re: Conversion FC & CC Readings Help!!

Hi frustratedpool mom.... and thanks for the welcome!

I purhcased the test kit from Leslie's Pools and it has all Taylor reagents - - These include TC, FC and CC.... It is model number... it can be viewed HERE.

After my first post I added 23 ounces of Cal-Hypo and waited an hour and did a test.... the results are getting better:

FC = 4 ppm
TC = greater than 10
CC = not able to calculate at this time because the test kit does not go higher than 10.....

As for the POP I am trying to get some more :-D

 

[mindgrasp]

Re: Conversion FC & CC Readings Help!!

Hi Jason

I did start off using liquid chlorine, but after several gallons I realized it wasn't doing much of anything in those dosages.... so, I went and purchased Cal-Hypo.... This seems to be starting the conversion process better as I am finally getting some decent readings.... I just wasn't adding enough in the beginning.... but hopefully now all is on the right track as you said....

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

Re: Conversion FC & CC Readings Help!!

Hi frustratedpool mom.... and thanks for the welcome!

I purhcased the test kit from Leslie's Pools and it has all Taylor reagents - - These include TC, FC and CC.... It is model number... it can be viewed HERE.

After my first post I added 23 ounces of Cal-Hypo and waited an hour and did a test.... the results are getting better:

FC = 4 ppm
TC = greater than 10
CC = not able to calculate at this time because the test kit does not go higher than 10.....

As for the POP I am trying to get some more :-D

I would really recommend you supplement your kit with a FAS-DPD test, TF Test kits sells one for $23.00. It measures FC up to 50ppm, and when converting or fighting algae, you REALLY need to be able to test higher than 5 or 10 which is what OTO tests and DPD tests (yours) test for.

If your FC is only 4ppm and your TC is greater than 10, then you still have a lot of CC and you have a ways to go.

Be careful with the Cal-Hypo, you don't want your CH to get too high and Cal-hypo adds calcium to your pool. The trick with chlorine is any type, be it cal-hypo or sodium-hypo, you need a lot of it, especially when converting or fighting algae. So you may not have been adding enough before, or often enough, it's not necessarily the Cal-hypo that did the trick. I hope that makes sense?

 

[mindgrasp]

Re: Conversion FC & CC Readings Help!!

I would really recommend you supplement your kit with a FAS-DPD test, TF Test kits sells one for $23.00. It measures FC up to 50ppm, and when converting or fighting algae, you REALLY need to be able to test higher than 5 or 10 which is what OTO tests and DPD tests (yours) test for.

If your FC is only 4ppm and your TC is greater than 10, then you still have a lot of CC and you have a ways to go.

Be careful with the Cal-Hypo, you don't want your CH to get too high and Cal-hypo adds calcium to your pool. The trick with chlorine is any type, be it cal-hypo or sodium-hypo, you need a lot of it, especially when converting or fighting algae. So you may not have been adding enough before, or often enough, it's not necessarily the Cal-hypo that did the trick. I hope that makes sense?

It makes a lot of sense, and I am going to get back to the liquid bleach and ditch the Cal-Hypo for now....

Where did you get your FAS-DPD tester? Is it just the vial?

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

Re: Conversion FC & CC Readings Help!!

Mine came with my TF-100 kit. But you can order just the FAS-DPD. It's a powder and two droppers, with a vial. You add the powder to the pool water, and if you have FC it turns pink. Then you add the first reagent and count the number of drops till it turns clear...that tells you your FC level. Then you add the second reagent, and if it turns pink again, you have CC's. Then you add the first reagent again, and count the number of drops till it turns clear again, and it tells you how much CC's you have. Like i said, it measures up to 50ppm, unlike the OTO or the DPD tests...

Here's the link to the test you need....

http://www.tftestkits.com/index.php?act ... oductId=23

 

[heikejohn]

Re: Conversion FC & CC Readings Help!!

I purchased the "FAS-DPD" to supplement my other test kit

and LOVE it!!!

No more guessing "Is this a "dark pink 4 ppm" or a "very dark pink 5 ppm"?? Maybee something in between, like 4.5? Holding the test vial against a white back ground does help a bit.

The FAS-DPD liquid goes from pink to clear. That's it!!! However mony drops you put in x .5 that's the result. No color guessing, no dilution of pool water to get results over 5.
The CC test is just as easy. If it turns from clear back to pink - you have CC. Count drops again, and you know EXACTLY how high!!!

Easy, easy, easy!!!
More time to. :sun:

 

[mindgrasp]

Re: Conversion FC & CC Readings Help!!

Mine came with my TF-100 kit. But you can order just the FAS-DPD. It's a powder and two droppers, with a vial. You add the powder to the pool water, and if you have FC it turns pink. Then you add the first reagent and count the number of drops till it turns clear...that tells you your FC level. Then you add the second reagent, and if it turns pink again, you have CC's. Then you add the first reagent again, and count the number of drops till it turns clear again, and it tells you how much CC's you have. Like i said, it measures up to 50ppm, unlike the OTO or the DPD tests...

Thanks for the great advice, I ordered a kit last night and it should be here Tuesday or Wednesday.....

This morning I checked the pool and it seemed to be getting clearer. I also back washed the cartridge filter - - a ton of bacqugoop came sliming out.... I then checked the readings and it had zero Chlorine, but high TC. As I said last night I was going to go back to liquid bleach, which I did with this mornings dose. I'm going to go back out and check the levels again and see how it is going.

Thanks!

 

[mindgrasp]

Re: Conversion FC & CC Readings Help!!

I purchased the "FAS-DPD" to supplement my other test kit and LOVE it!!!

No more guessing "Is this a "dark pink 4 ppm" or a "very dark pink 5 ppm"?? Maybee something in between, like 4.5? Holding the test vial against a white back ground does help a bit.

The FAS-DPD liquid goes from pink to clear. That's it!!! However mony drops you put in x .5 that's the result. No color guessing, no dilution of pool water to get results over 5.

The CC test is just as easy. If it turns from clear back to pink - you have CC. Count drops again, and you know EXACTLY how high!!!

Easy, easy, easy!!!
More time to.

I am really looking forward to getting my kit in the next couple of days.... I know, from all that has been shared here, that it is going to make a huge difference in testing.

Thanks!

 

[mindgrasp]

Re: Conversion FC & CC Readings Help!!

Update: Conversion Day 2

I have been adding liquid chlorine on a regular basis today. The readings of chlorine are finally over 10 ( I am not positive of the exactly level because I won't have my FAS test kit for a couple of days). The filter has been back washed again, and the water is getting really clear.

Here are some pics from day one before the conversion started - - through today.... If anyone is wondering where our grass yard is, we live in the desert :-D

 

[mindgrasp]

Re: Conversion FC & CC Readings Help!!

More Pics!

 

[dabuddy]

Mindgrasp, how often are you dosing? I just started today...

 

[mindgrasp]

Mindgrasp, how often are you dosing? I just started today...

At first I thought I only had to dose every two hours, but the chlorine disappeared so quickly that I started checking it hourly and adding as needed to get the level up. Thanks to all the great advice people gave me I started to dose more often. At one point I did do a full dose of Cal-Hypo, which seemed to help a lot, but as frustratedpoolmom pointed out that can raise the calcium hardness quite a bit..... so I went back to liquid bleach and it is doing a great job. At this time my levels are doing ok - - but my CC is super high.... I am hoping that will burn out soon....

 

[mindgrasp]

Evening of Day 2:

I just did another test on my pool and the results were as follows:

FC = 5 ppm
TC = 10 ppm
pH = 7.2 ( a little low )

I just added another dose of liquid Chlorine.... I have found the Pool Calculator to be an awesome tool.... and it has taken the guessing out of how much I need to add. :lol:

 

[JasonLion]

Great. It sounds like you are moving right along.

 

[frustratedpoolmom]

Evening of Day 2:

I just did another test on my pool and the results were as follows:

FC = 5 ppm
TC = 10 ppm
pH = 7.2 ( a little low )

I just added another dose of liquid Chlorine.... I have found the Pool Calculator to be an awesome tool.... and it has taken the guessing out of how much I need to add. :lol:

Your PH does wacky things when converting.....stick to the chlorine for now....sounds like youre getting a handle on it....test, add, test again, add some more, repeat, LOL....hope you found a good price!

 

[mindgrasp]

Your PH does wacky things when converting.....stick to the chlorine for now....sounds like youre getting a handle on it....test, add, test again, add some more, repeat, LOL....hope you found a good price!

I was doing some reading in the directions of the test kit I purchased for the conversion, before I purchased the one I am waiting to be delivered . It said: If color is off the scale you can repeat the test using the 4.5 mL sample diluted to the 9 mL mark with tap water then multiply by 2 to obtain approximate sanitizer level. If color is still off scale repeat test using 1.8 mL sample diluted to 9mL mark with tap water and multiply by 5 to obtain approximate sanitizer level. In doing this I just got a reading of:

FC = 3 multiplied by 5 = 15 ppm
TC = 2.5 multiplied by 5 = 12.5 ppm
CC = 2.5 ppm
pH = 7.2

What do you think about this method?

The directions said to use tap water, would mineral or distilled be better?

I know the comparator isn't as accurate as the FAS, but until that kit arrives will these numbers be accurate enough?

I'll be doing at least two more tests before bed tonight, and will add chlorine as needed, then will check again in the early AM and then again in the PM when I get home.

 

[JasonLion]

When using dilution to measure chlorine levels it is critical to use water that doesn't contain chlorine. In most areas municipal water contains chlorine and well water doesn't, but there are exceptions to both. If you have any doubts it is easy to test your tap water and see if there is any chlorine. Distilled water never has any chlorine.

When you use dilution the results are less precise. You can see that clearly because TC can never be lower than FC, yet your results show just that.

During the first phase of a baquacil conversion the basic idea is to let FC come down below 5 and then bring it back up to 15. You can do that without dilution easily enough.

During the second phase, you will still retain some FC overnight, but lose FC quickly during the day. In this phase you can use dilution in the evening to help you "top off" the chlorine level at various points through the evening.

During the final phase of a conversion you need very precise measurements of exactly how much FC changes overnight. The test kit you have won't work for that because dilution loses too much precision.