Here goes my TFPC first attempt.

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daytoman

daytoman

0
Jun 9, 2013
78
Oklahoma City / OK
Came to the site today for some algae questions. I've learned a lot in the past few hours..LOL

I'm done with the "conventional" chemistry. So I'm giving common sense a try.

Tested today:
Water test results:

Free Avail Chlorine= 5+
Total Avail Chlorine= 5+
PH= 7.4
Total Alk= 90
Cyanuric Acid= 90 (actually had it tested 3 times. The other 2 times were 100)
Total dissolved solids= 1000
Phos= <100


Heres how my pool looks today:

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My CYA is too high for my FC to be effective. So I drained almost a foot of water and I'm refilling. I'll have the CYA tested tomorrow and start the SLAM.
 

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Good luck. You're going to need a TF100 or K2006 to finish the OCLT. The TF100 is the best kit for the money as you will get more reagents than the K2006 offers. You have to order the kits online as you will not find them locally. You can use the link in my siggy to order or go to TFtestkits,net. :goodjob:
 
Most pools with diving boards have an average depth of around 5.5 feet. If you had a CYA of 100 and drain off a foot, your resultant CYA will be a little over 80.....still too high.

Get your CYA down to about 40-50 ppm by draining an additional 2 feet of water and you should be about right.

The only reason to delay that additional drain would be if you didn't trust the 3 CYA tests you report. If that's the case, wait for your TF-100 to come in and then post results from all the tests.

I understand your need to do SOMETHING but you cannot effectively SLAM a pool unless you have and FAS/DPD test and you don't. The more I think about it, I think you should get your kit in, post test results and go from there.

We have to have a valid starting point to help get your water clear.
 
duraleigh said:
Most pools with diving boards have an average depth of around 5.5 feet. If you had a CYA of 100 and drain off a foot, your resultant CYA will be a little over 80.....still too high.

Get your CYA down to about 40-50 ppm by draining an additional 2 feet of water and you should be about right.

The only reason to delay that additional drain would be if you didn't trust the 3 CYA tests you report. If that's the case, wait for your TF-100 to come in and then post results from all the tests.

I understand your need to do SOMETHING but you cannot effectively SLAM a pool unless you have and FAS/DPD test and you don't. The more I think about it, I think you should get your kit in, post test results and go from there.

We have to have a vaild stqarting point to help get your water clear.
Click to expand...

If I need to drain more i will.

I just went out to turn on the spigot to keep filling, the pool water looks better than yesterday.
 
Looks a little better this morning

uruny2uq.jpg



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Heres the deal. Ive ordered a K-2006. I just found an outstanding deal. It wont be here for at least 3-4 days so once I get my CYA down, which might take another day, I'm gonna have to do something, I may just have to wing it. Obviously my pool isn't that bad so what do you guys suggest? Should I just put a trichlor tab in there to get me by a few days?


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Heres the deal. Ive ordered a K-2006. I just found an outstanding deal. It wont be here for at least 3-4 days so once I get my CYA down, which might take another day, I'm gonna have to do something, I may just have to wing it. Obviously my pool isn't that bad so what do you guys suggest? Should I just put a trichlor tab in there to get me by a few days?
Click to expand...
I understand your need to do SOMETHING but you cannot effectively SLAM a pool unless you have and FAS/DPD test and you don't. The more I think about it, I think you should get your kit in, post test results and go from there.

We have to have a valid starting point to help get your water clear.
Click to expand...

Well, it sounds like you have decided to "wing it" but are asking us what we suggest. We will not suggest "winging it" because it goes against the very principles we are attempting to teach you.
 

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As for bleach (liquid chlorine.) being that I am in the janitorial supply business, I have a few options.
My top two options are:
Clorox Germacidal Bleach 8.25% concentration 3/121oz per case--$11.65/cs
Laundry destainer Stabilized, 12.5% active bleach (sodium hypochlorite) 5 gallon bucket--$23.20/5 gal pail

I also have a few others.
We carry a rock gut bleach that I think is 6% but I have to confirm. Its dirt cheap though, but I might be better off with the 12.5 laundry product above after doing the calculations. This stuff comes 6 gl per case for $8.50/cs

I also have the Clorox laundry bleach in 5 gallon pails, I'm cant recall the concentration though..I think its also 12.5% but I will confirm. Its pricey because it Clorox. $34.70/ 5 gal pail

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OK, I just found out the Clorox laundry bleach in the 5 gallon is 8.25% with a claim that it is 34% more active. Its very stable with a 9 month shelf life....but I'm sure I'll use it before then.

So far the 12.5% may be the one to go with.
 
daytoman said:
As for bleach (liquid chlorine.) being that I am in the janitorial supply business, I have a few options.
My top two options are:
Clorox Germacidal Bleach 8.25% concentration 3/121oz per case--$11.65/cs
Laundry destainer Stabilized, 12.5% active bleach (sodium hypochlorite) 5 gallon bucket--$23.20/5 gal pail

I also have a few others.
We carry a rock gut bleach that I think is 6% but I have to confirm. Its dirt cheap though, but I might be better off with the 12.5 laundry product above after doing the calculations. This stuff comes 6 gl per case for $8.50/cs

I also have the Clorox laundry bleach in 5 gallon pails, I'm cant recall the concentration though..I think its also 12.5% but I will confirm. Its pricey because it Clorox. $34.70/ 5 gal pail

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OK, I just found out the Clorox laundry bleach in the 5 gallon is 8.25% with a claim that it is 34% more active. Its very stable with a 9 month shelf life....but I'm sure I'll use it before then.

So far the 12.5% may be the one to go with.
Click to expand...

Use the regular Chlorox. The others may have additives that are not needed. You could use the pool calculator to "eyeball" the amount of chlorine you need to add in order to bring your pool to shock level based on its size.
 
OK, I confirmed that the cheap Pure Bright bleach is 6%. So even though its only $1.42/gl it may not be as economical as the 12.5% for $23.2o/pail which equals $4.64/gl.

Am I on the right track? Or is the 6% still more economical? If I double the $1.42, thats only $2.84.
 
daytoman said:
OK, pool is almost full now. I brushed it and a little less algae came off the floor than yesterday. I tested CYA with a strip and it showed round 40. I'll see what the pool shop says shortly.
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I'm sure they will mention: Phosphates, Total Disolved Solids, and Calcium Hardness (which is meaningless for a vinyl pool). My pool store's computer says a CYA of 240 is acceptable.

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daytoman said:
OK, I confirmed that the cheap Pure Bright bleach is 6%. So even though its only $1.42/gl it may not be as economical as the 12.5% for $23.2o/pail which equals $4.64/gl.

Am I on the right track? Or is the 6% still more economical? If I double the $1.42, thats only $2.84.
Click to expand...

Cheap bleach can contain small amounts of sodium hydroxide (lye) which can mess with your pH. It WILL NOT cause your skin to fall off ny using it in your pool though.
 
aasbury said:
Use the regular Chlorox. The others may have additives that are not needed. You could use the pool calculator to "eyeball" the amount of chlorine you need to add in order to bring your pool to shock level based on its size.
Click to expand...

I'll check the MSDS and ask the chemists.

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aasbury said:
Cheap bleach can contain small amounts of sodium hydroxide (lye) which can mess with your pH. It WILL NOT cause your skin to fall off ny using it in your pool though.
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MSDS on the Pure Bright (cheap bleach)
Says Sodium Hydroxide >1.0%

http://www.cmcss.net/documents/safety/msds/Pure%20Bright%20Germicidal%20Bleach%20MSDS.pdf
 
daytoman said:
OK, I confirmed that the cheap Pure Bright bleach is 6%. So even though its only $1.42/gl it may not be as economical as the 12.5% for $23.2o/pail which equals $4.64/gl.

Am I on the right track? Or is the 6% still more economical? If I double the $1.42, thats only $2.84.
Click to expand...

6% bleach will have a longer shelf life. I use the Wal-Mart Great value 8.25% or Family Solutions brand 8.25%. 6% bleach is getting harder to find. Chlorox 6% is definitely approved for pool sanitation. There is a .pdf file you can get on the Internet straight from the company. Pools are not a cheap venture, this site does help keep costs down, though.
 
aasbury said:
6% bleach will have a longer shelf life. I use the Wal-Mart Great value 8.25% or Family Solutions brand 8.25%. 6% bleach is getting harder to find. Chlorox 6% is definitely approved for pool sanitation. There is a .pdf file you can get on the Internet straight from the company. Pools are not a cheap venture, this site does help keep costs down, though.
Click to expand...

I can get that 6% bleach by the truckload.

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aasbury said:
This is the thread I read a few years ago.

http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/51407-Is-sodium-hydroxide-in-bleach-normal-ok-to-use-in-pool
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Thanks!
 

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