After reading the positive reviews for the PoolSkim, I ordered one, thinking I'd be able to figure out how to install it. Wrong. Turns out my 35 year old pool doesn't have the standard 1 1/2" threaded returns. From what I can gather, there are a couple of ways to tackle this with my pool setup.
"Easy" but expensive route, which I'm trying to avoid since it's basically 50% more than what I'd budgeted for this project: I have what appears to be a 1" threadless PVC return, which I think a $50 Polaris/Zodiac 9-100-8002 1-Inch Stub Pipe Connection Replacement Kit might fit inside of. I say might because I'm not positive it's a 1" straight pipe.
The alternative, which I'd prefer because it should just be two simple and cheap pieces of PVC, I have an additional threaded return where an eyeball is attached that looks to be around 1-3/8" in size. I'm measuring the inside of the female threaded screw-on cap that holds the eyeball in place, but really struggling to interpret & understand the sizes of adapters, bushings, and reducers. The cap piece seems to screw onto 1-1/4" male fittings at Home Depot, so I'm assuming its actually 1-1/4".
The "fittings" page on poolskimusa's website and a few trips to Home Depot have almost gotten me there, but I can't seem to get the threads from the 1-1/4" reducer bushing from HD to actually fasten onto the threaded inlet! The fit is poor and the threads never catch onto the inlet threads. The reducer bushing is clearly labeled 1-1/4" but measures 1-1/2" on the female inside threads, excluding the threads.
Wondering if maybe the inlet pipe and screw-on cap could have shrunk over the years? Does PVC do that? Or maybe its a non-standard threading pattern... though Wikipedia says the NPT standard has been around for 150 years.
The threaded inlet pipe doesn't protrude from the wall very much, and the female threads in the reducer bushing do seem to start about a sixteenth of an inch further in, which may also be why its not catching. Might require chiseling some of the plaster around the inlet to give the reducer enough room to catch.
Or maybe I'm just being stubborn and should just give up and spend more cash...
The reducer bushing