Mustard Algea? Large Pool

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S

socalowner

0
Oct 28, 2013
41
Laguna Niguel, CA
I have clear water with a green Algea that appears only on walls and brushes off. Based upon reading, I'm assuming it's mustard Algea. Pool is 80 degrees, PH was high and FC/CYA were low which I have corrected. I have a single 40,000 gallon SWG that obviously can't keep up with current run time and I'll have to increase.

My pool is 52,000 gallons and the forum calculator displays that with a CYA of 60 I need 22 gallons of 6% bleach to SLAM. Is that right? Seems really excessive.

If I added 22 gallons of bleach, how much more will I have to add to maintain the mustard Algea shock level?
 
A 40k SWG on a 52k pool would have to run 100% 24/7 to try to have any hope of keeping up with the FC demand. I would suggest raising the CYA higher after the pool is clear.

This does not sound like mustard algae to me ... it is not very common. Have you read this: http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/148-mustard-algae

You have a big pool, therefore it take a lot of bleach. I would just shoot for the regular shock level of 24ppm and maintain it there until you pass the 3 criteria to stop the ShockLevelAndMAINTAIN Process. I get that you would need 20 gallons of 6% to add 24 ppm of FC ... you will need as much as you need to keep it there. No way to know, but I would guess you will go through at least 60 bottles.

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FYI, the T-15 40k cell is rated for producing 1.45 lbs of chlorine a day ... in your pool that would be 3.3ppm per day running at 100% 24/7. It is normal to have to add 2-4ppm of FC everyday, so I am not sure how that SWG is going to keep up. Would be best to add a second AquaRite 40k setup.
 
I have read the Mustard Aglea information. Whatever is on my pool walls is everywhere, not just the shaded areas. It is light green and brushes off easily forming a cloud that floats toward the bottom. Once on the bottom, I cannot see it. Then it comes back after a few days. I've never heard of pollen until you mentioned it. That being said, can I treat it or just clean it? I searched the forum and only information I find is to use a skimmer sock...........

60 gallons of bleach? That is insane............Is bleach the preferred method? What is most economical that is safe on pool/equipment?

Yes, I know my SWG on paper is insufficient for my pool size. However, I have owned the home for 9 months and chlorine levels have been fine until just recently (summer). I previously swapped my singel speed 1.5HP Whisperflow motor with a two speed 3/4HP and now run on the low speed for 12 hours a day with SWG @ 100% output. I was waiting until summer to evaluate the SWG ability and apparently it is insufficient.
 
Sounds like regular algae and not pollen.

Liquid chlorine is usually the cheapest per ppm of FC without the side effects of solid forms of chlorine. You could use half as much bleach if you filled in half the pool with concrete :D
 
jblizzle said:
Sounds like regular algae and not pollen.

Liquid chlorine is usually the cheapest per ppm of FC without the side effects of solid forms of chlorine. You could user half as much if you filled in half the pool with concrete :D
Click to expand...

Unfortunately, Jason is right. That is a HUGE pool and it is on a binge right now and it needs chlorine! And a lot of it! :shock:
 
I've completed the SLAM process and raised FC to 34ppm for the last 24 hours based upon Chlorine/CYA Chart. Assuming the aglea is gone/dead and I let FC drop to normal, how long will it take return to safe swimming levels? I understand every pool and scenario is different based upon variables. Thx
 
I am confused. How did you do the SLAM process if you just now raised the FC up to shock level?
For that matter, where do you see a FC level of 34ppm being required? For a CYA of 60ppm, you needed to maintain 24ppm ... oh, likely a typo I think?

Have you passed the 3 criteria to stop the SLAM process?

Once you pass, then it is safe to swim as soon as the FC is less than the shock level.
 
Ah, got ya. Sounds like you did it right.

You can not let the FC drop to 4ppm. With a CYA of 60ppm, the absolute minimum you can ever let the FC drop to is 5ppm. So likely you should be dosing to 8ppm every day. OOPS ... forgot about the SWG.

You should likely raise the CYA up to 80ppm and then try to see if the SWG will maintain a FC level of 5-6ppm never getting below 4ppm.

It is safe to swim when the FC is < 24ppm for a CYA of 60ppm ... likely that will happen in less than a day.
 
I've waited 5 days and FC is still 16ppm. I know my pool is very large. Is that why its taking so long for the FC to drop? I also turned off my SWG to help.

I took sample to Leslie's to confirm chlorine level and they told me it was 4ppm. I asked if they could test for FC above 4 ppm and he looked at me like I was crazy. I have the TF-100 test kit and it takes 32 drops for pink to turn clear. Am I calculating correctly?
 

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