New SWG, now no Chlorine

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S

soabell

0
Apr 25, 2013
3
Blythewood, SC
This past weekend, we installed the New CircuPool Si30 plus. It's running, the control panel shows that the cell has current and that it is generating chlorine, but we have NO chlorine. Yesterday we put two gallons of bleach in to try to get the level up. We added the second gallon after we tested and saw no chlorine at all. After the second gallon had a chance to circulate, we added a shock treatment and left the pump running overnight. This morning...no chlorine. The CYA is a little high, but it has been much higher and we still had chlorine. We are gradually draining the pool and getting it lower. The phosphates were at 800 yesterday. We have been treating it with a phosphate remover from the pool store.

Here are my current levels:

Total Chlorine: 0
FC: 0
pH: 7.5
TA: 175
CYA: 110
Salt: between 3500 and 4000 (depending on where you read it!)
Phosphates: 800 (yesterday, before treatment)
Pool temp: 86 degrees

Help!
 
Phosphates aren't your problem. Phosphates are just food for algae, and if you have enough chlorine in the water, it doesn't matter what your phosphate level is.

Your problem, assuming your cell is really generating, is that something is consuming chlorine faster than you are generating it.

Step one is to collect a sample of water coming out of a return. Test it for chlorine. If there is none, you have a generator problem. If there is chlorine in the sample, you have algae. Proceed to SLAMing Your Pool and when complete your SWCG should be able to handle your chlorination.
 
I have the identical system, a month old. And I've had issues. But the price was nice. I can only hope the system is as good as their customer service!

What has happened to me is that the "generating" light is on when it is not generating! Push the diagnostic button. First push is temperature, second is cell voltage, third is cell amperage. (the rest don't matter here) The explanation is on the box cover, but basically for example, you may be showing 10 volts, and zero amps, meaning the cell is not creating chlorine, even though the "generating" light is on. When it's producing mine reads ~ 24 volts, 5 amps. Be aware you may have checked during a reversing cycle where voltage and amperage drops to zero, then goes back up, so check again in a few minutes.

In my case I had to clean the cell again. When you clean your filter, are you getting white flakes? I started that way, but once I got my pool specs in line the problem has abated. That is caused, I'm told, by the cell sloughing off calcium from the generating blades when it goes to it's cleaning cycle and indicates my pool chemistry was of out of whack. I never had that problem with my Goldline/Hayward unit. I'm not sure what to make of that.

You will need to get your pool specs close to where the directions say they are supposed to be. And be careful adding salt. The numbers come up slowly and you can easily over salt your pool.

For further confirmation, take your test kit tube, and covering the tube with your finger, take at sample directly from the pool outlet. When it's working you'll be showing very strong, and much stronger than the regular pool water.

I hope this is some help.

EDIT: When you are diagnosing, turn the dial to 100%. If you are at 50%, then half the time it is not generating.
 
If your cell still isn't producing enough to show FC, I would try shutting the cell off, raise your FC manually, then do a overnight chlorine loss test.

Your CYA is too high.

What are you testing with?
 
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