Converting Copper Ionization System to simple Chlorine pool

Jun 18, 2014
5
Houston, TX
Dear TFP gods: I admit it. I fell for the promise of bottled water to swim in. I've had a certain Copper/Titanium Ionization System for 5 years now and I ready to switch to a simple Chlorine pool. Main reason is my kids eyes burn because the water must remain at pH 6.8. We also can't get rid of pesky water bugs even though I can't find any algae. Anyway, I look to you to aid in my conversion. I know I must decrease the Cu, to what level?. I'm looking for a step by step instruction on what to add 1st, test, then add 2nd, etc... I'll give you the specifics;

15k gallon rectangle pool/spa
300 lb filter with new zeobrite
1.5 HP pump

pH 6.8
Cu 0.5ppm
Total Hardness ~400ppm
Phosphates 0ppm
FC and CC 0ppm
*these were ideal levels for my ionization system, and still get algae even with "preventative" algaecide

I did test the following but I'm not sure if they are accurate based on the low pH and Zero chlorine levels
Total Alkalinity 100ppm
Bromine 0ppm

I realize every pool is different in their ideal levels, just give me the standard concentrations to aim for, and I can tweak from there. Oh....and I live in Houston and during the obscene heat, we have Texas' largest hot tub in my yard. Don't get me started on the thick pollen film every morning during spring.

I appreciate your help in advance.
 
:wave: Welcome to TFP!!!

Only way to reduce the metal is to drain the water and replace it with water that does not have metals in it.
Do that while waiting for one of the Recommended Test Kits to arrive that you are going to go order ... hint, the TF-100 is the best value.

Every pool is not really different. They are all using the same water and generally need the chemistry to be the same to prevent problems. You can find the recommended levels in Pool School.

Generally, you need to:
1. Replace water to lower copper.
2. Get the CYA in the right range (what is it now?)
3. Maintain the FC in the proper range for your CYA level
4. Keep the pH in the 7s

That is all.

How much Pool School have you read? Start with these:
ABCs of Water Chemistry
Recommended Pool Chemicals
How to Chlorinate Your Pool
 
Thanks for the swift reply! I've read most of what you recommended and I'm fairly familiar with my pool chemistry as I have been tweaking the ionization system for 5 yrs now. But I never had to test more than pH, Cu, and hardness. My CYA test never clouded up so I assume the level is 0. I'll take my water to a pool store tomorrow to verify my readings. Using your pool calculator, I plugged in my values, and your TFP recommended values, so I have an idea of the volumes to buy. I think I'll need to use the chlorine pucks after the water is stable because I won't be around to test everyday though. But to get started I'll go old school.
 
Skip the crappy pool store testing and just order a kit. It is not worth the fuel to drive to the pool store.

You can get all the chemicals you need elsewhere for cheaper. But, I am not sure the point of adding CYA and adjusting everything if you need to drain it first to get rid of the copper. With a Cu that high I am surprised you do not have staining all over the pool and green hair.
 
regarding the pool calculator....what is the top number to the right of the size field in the gray bar. Is it a volume conversion?

- - - Updated - - -

LOL- I don't go underwater because my hair costs more than the pool! My kids are blonde and their hair is fine, and no stains, maybe a bit of brownish dust?? Could be Cu precipitant or dead algae do to the fact I use a ton of Cu algaecide.
 
I must have been using a different link?? Could not attach pool math suggestions, too big. Also since CYA will lower my pH, should I use the baking soda at the same time? As it tells me to add borate 2X, since I want the borates. Will order test kit and begin replacing water.
 
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