First time pool owner with a Power Flo LX and cartridge filter left by the previous owner in great shape. I saw online that this pump is self priming however in the online manual it says you need to prime it? Anyone familiar with this pump and how I should begin the first start up for this summer?
Hayward Power Flo LX
- Thread starter GOLDS
- Start date
The PowerFlo 2 is self primiing - the PowerFlo LX is NOT - it is usually placed below the water level so that would make it "self-priming.
I have a Perflex DE extended cycle (bump) filter along with the pump. I've never used this equipment before since it was the previous home owner's and he left it with the pool. When I first installed the equipment the "fingers" looked "dirty" which I assume was the DE powder from the previous year covering them. Is it required for me to do a complete cleaning of the filter and put new DE powder in the skimmer or will last years be OK? I turned the pump on this morning for the first time this year and it seemed to run very smoothly after the initial start up and the PSI climbed to between 18-19 and steadily stayed there for 30 minutes until I turned it off before going to work. There is a lot of **** in the pool due to 2 years of no maintenance so should let the pump run for several hours and then take a water sample to a pool store or just go ahead and get a sample right away?
Hayward Perflex Extended Cycle DE Filter
Merged by moderator. Lets just keep it all together for continuity of your "story". You can change the title of your first post if you like, but not sure it matters. Thanks, jblizzle
I posted this inside a different thread I had about my Hayward pump, but I want this to be able to be seen on the main forum since it's a different topic...
I have a Perflex DE extended cycle (bump) filter along with the pump. I've never used this equipment before since it was the previous home owner's and he left it with the pool. When I first installed the equipment the "fingers" looked "dirty" which I assume was the DE powder from the previous year covering them. Is it required for me to do a complete cleaning of the filter and put new DE powder in the skimmer or will last years be OK? I turned the pump on this morning for the first time this year and it seemed to run very smoothly after the initial start up and the PSI climbed to between 18-19 and steadily stayed there for 30 minutes until I turned it off before going to work. There is a lot of **** in the pool due to 2 years of no maintenance so should let the pump run for several hours and then take a water sample to a pool store or just go ahead and get a sample right away?
Merged by moderator. Lets just keep it all together for continuity of your "story". You can change the title of your first post if you like, but not sure it matters. Thanks, jblizzle
I posted this inside a different thread I had about my Hayward pump, but I want this to be able to be seen on the main forum since it's a different topic...
I have a Perflex DE extended cycle (bump) filter along with the pump. I've never used this equipment before since it was the previous home owner's and he left it with the pool. When I first installed the equipment the "fingers" looked "dirty" which I assume was the DE powder from the previous year covering them. Is it required for me to do a complete cleaning of the filter and put new DE powder in the skimmer or will last years be OK? I turned the pump on this morning for the first time this year and it seemed to run very smoothly after the initial start up and the PSI climbed to between 18-19 and steadily stayed there for 30 minutes until I turned it off before going to work. There is a lot of **** in the pool due to 2 years of no maintenance so should let the pump run for several hours and then take a water sample to a pool store or just go ahead and get a sample right away?
Personally, I would want to make a fresh start not knowing what the previous owners did. I would want to take it apart, clean all the fingers, then put it together and recharge it will the proper amount of DE. Then make note of that clean pressure. You will want to bump the filter when the pressure rises 20-25% over the clean pressure and when the pressure stops dropping after a bump, then it is time to clean and start over.
I urge you to not bother taking a water sample to the pool store who have notoriously bad abilities at testing. Just invest in one of the Recommended Test Kits and take control of your pool from the start.
You are going to want to scoop everything you can out of the water and then follow the ShockLevelAndMAINTAIN Process with you new test kit.
I urge you to not bother taking a water sample to the pool store who have notoriously bad abilities at testing. Just invest in one of the Recommended Test Kits and take control of your pool from the start.
You are going to want to scoop everything you can out of the water and then follow the ShockLevelAndMAINTAIN Process with you new test kit.
I know the owner took care of the pool, our neighbors were very close with him and they said he took care of it well and I believe it. The reason why I wanted to take it to a store just for an initial testing was because I've never dealt with above ground pools before, or any pool by myself before (family pool growing up was a large in ground). I figured whatever numbers they came up with I could punch into the calculator on this website and at least begin the process of getting this pool somewhat clean. It's been untouched for two years in upstate NY and I feel very overwhelmed with trying to get it back to crystal clear.
The problem is the numbers they give you may not be anywhere close to reality ... so you might end up making things worse.
Two true examples:
-Store said CYA was 40ppm, owner got a kit and found it to actually be 340ppm
-Store said CYA was 40ppm, owner actually had brought in tap water which by definition has 0ppm of CYA in it.
You will be much less overwhelmed (and $ out of pocket) with your own test kit and trusting yourself and asking questions here as needed.
Two true examples:
-Store said CYA was 40ppm, owner got a kit and found it to actually be 340ppm
-Store said CYA was 40ppm, owner actually had brought in tap water which by definition has 0ppm of CYA in it.
You will be much less overwhelmed (and $ out of pocket) with your own test kit and trusting yourself and asking questions here as needed.
Thanks man, my plan is to run the pump tonight for a good 3 to 4 hours to get the water moving and skim whatever I can with the filter and then test it tomorrow. Can those test kits listed be found in retail stores or only online? If only online, I may go grab a simpler test kit tomorrow just to get an idea of whats going on in my pool.
Rarely can the FAS-DPD test kits be found locally, maybe at a commercial supply house if you have one.
I would recommend ordering the TF-100 from tftestkits.net ... they are in NC and you should get it in a few days. I would not bother buying a cheap kit instead. You can get the water tested at the pool store, just don't let them sell you anything and don't necessarily believe much of it.
If you want to feel like you are doing something, add your pool details to your signature as described HERE as it will help us help you. And then we can figure out how much bleach you can add daily until you can test everything.
I would recommend ordering the TF-100 from tftestkits.net ... they are in NC and you should get it in a few days. I would not bother buying a cheap kit instead. You can get the water tested at the pool store, just don't let them sell you anything and don't necessarily believe much of it.
If you want to feel like you are doing something, add your pool details to your signature as described HERE as it will help us help you. And then we can figure out how much bleach you can add daily until you can test everything.
You need to run the pump if you are adding any bleach. You also need to run the pump before you can test the water.
Not adding any bleach because the water is very dirty and the floor has a lot of what looks to be debris.
So why are you not adding bleach? Or are you planning to just wait for a test kit to start?
You could certainly start scooping out all the mess you can with a leaf rake.
You could certainly start scooping out all the mess you can with a leaf rake.
So since this pool has been untreated for at least 2 years and it's been an absolute pain, I went ahead and went to my local Leslie's to get my water tested and get some "shock". I told them that the pool wasn't treated for at least 2 years and so they gave me a PH test and water test and said that the only thing wrong was that the PH level was very high and that the water had no trace of chlorine in it. I grabbed a couple bags of cal-hypo and the guy told me to put one bag in that evening (Saturday) and if the water wasn't clearer on Monday throw the other bag in and then test the water again. After numerous hours of skimming the surface and letting the pump run, today the water is definitely improved but still very cloudy and a deep blue color.
I know this goes against what this website preaches, but if you could give me some advice for a 10,000 gallon pool with no trace of chlorine (according to the store) should I be putting more than 1 bag in at a time to "shock" the pool? My girlfriends mom has been maintaining her 20,000 gallon in ground pool for 20 years and told me she puts in 6-8 bags of shock at initial opening and her water is as clear as can be.
I know this goes against what this website preaches, but if you could give me some advice for a 10,000 gallon pool with no trace of chlorine (according to the store) should I be putting more than 1 bag in at a time to "shock" the pool? My girlfriends mom has been maintaining her 20,000 gallon in ground pool for 20 years and told me she puts in 6-8 bags of shock at initial opening and her water is as clear as can be.
Did you read anything I previously wrote?
Get a recommended test kit.
Follow the SLAM process.
Get a recommended test kit.
Follow the SLAM process.