Want to Test Total Hardness in home water supply

Jun 15, 2008
18
Near Tampa Florida
For the sake of calibrating my water softener I am trying to test the Total Hardness of the water coming to my home. I have read that the standard Calcium Hardness test uses of R-0010 (Sodium Hydroxide) as a base/buffer is to avoid interference with Magnesium. As I understand it at high pH the Magnesium will precipitate out. In order to measure Total (Calcium + Magnesium) Hardness can I simply not use R-0010 leaving the pH at about 7.5 and the Magnesium in solution?

Thanks,
Mike
 
I can't help with the chemistry but you might get those answers from the water company. Our water district posts the annual water test online and I think it may have those values. A phone call to that office might help you otherwise.
 
According to the instructions in the Taylor K-1722 that tests for Total Hardness as well as Calcium Hardness, it doesn't appear to be as simple as just not adding the R-0010 Calcium Buffer (sodium hydroxide). Instead of the R-0011L (triethanolamine 77%, isopropyl alcohol 23%, Calcon < 1%), they use the R-0854 instead (same ingredients except instead of Calcon it says a different chemical). I think they use a different though related dye. I suspect that you'd get an approximate reading of Total Hardness by skipping calcium buffer step, but it might not be as accurate as using the real test for Total Hardness. You could try it on tap water with known Total Hardness from your water quality report and see what happens.
 
For the sake of calibrating my water softener I am trying to test the Total Hardness of the water coming to my home. I have read that the standard Calcium Hardness test uses of R-0010 (Sodium Hydroxide) as a base/buffer is to avoid interference with Magnesium. As I understand it at high pH the Magnesium will precipitate out. In order to measure Total (Calcium + Magnesium) Hardness can I simply not use R-0010 leaving the pH at about 7.5 and the Magnesium in solution?

Thanks,
Mike

wonder if this may help you out: http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/calci...mRJcqBtvuqXuzTy-Ra1GLlG15AnfkXijFWY1mMs_D_BwE
 
Thanks all. I'm good at this point. Talked to my water softener installer (who I trust and has been servicing my area for decades) and he confirmed that there is virtually no magnesium in our water supply. Thus by measuring Calcium Hardness I'm effectively also measuring Total Hardness.

Mike
 
In most cases, it will get you more than close enough. Check with your guy, but it should be making soft water to the quality of 3 grains or less, all the way to the end of the run. That conversion to PPM is 17.1

So if you have 3 GPG (grains per gallon) it will be 51.3 PPM.

It's a great idea to monitor your softener for sure. Somewhere on it's display, it should show you gallons remaining. When it regens, this starts over. Lets just say yours can process 450 gallons after regen. You would want to check it as close to zero gallons remaining to really understand how well it is doing. You should be just as soft here as you were on the front end. If not, contact your guy and let him know you are leaking hardness on the end of the run.
 
We have hard water here and have to clean out the water heater about every year because the heat makes the calcium settle in the tank. Once the calcium gets to the bottom heating unit it will burn it out. Your water heater will eventually tell you if your water softener is working good or not is what Im trying to say here.
 

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If you don't mind spending a little money, the Hatch 5b kit is pretty much the standard for home water hardness testing. Bought the kit back when I was trying to properly size my whole water softening system. The kit pretty much backed up the numbers I already got from my water company.
 
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