AutoPilot SC-60 low chlorine output?

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J

jmcst25

0
Jun 11, 2007
15
Hello

This is my 2nd year with Autopilot SC-60 and I am concerned about the cell output level.

Hopefully this is enough information to offer advice. I have a 32K gallon IG pool.
1) Last year I installed the autopilot (i.e. no local support) and ran it on level 2 and it ran at 30% - 50% (depending on temp) and maintained FC at 4-6. I run the pump for 9 hours in daylight (for solar heating) and for 4 hours overnight.
2) This year, I am up to level 3 at 50% and only maintaining FC between 1-2 (same pump run time). (Also - I have shocked a couple times this season with bleach after large kid party - no problems occurring - just precautionary). Here are the other #'s today FC 1.0 CC 0 Alk 110 Ph 7.2 CYA ~60 Salt 3200 CAL 210. I'm also in the process of adding borates (hard to find large volume of borax). I'm planning on raising CYA slightly to 70. I've never seen any 'scaling' on the cell but I have cleaned it.

So why am I up 1 power level and down output this year, considering the # are roughly the same and runtime is the same. Is the cell going bad after 1 year (4 month usage)?

Any advice appreciated. - thanks,
 
Have you done a visual inspection of the cell? It should be silvery metallic or black. If it is chalky white then it needs to be cleaned with acid. Also take a look at the cable from the cell to the power supply. It should be securely attached at both ends and not look burned on either end.

It is also possible that you have a low level algae problem. An overnight FC level check with the SWG off can tell you if there is an algae issue.
 
Thanks. The cell is clean (nothing white) and I have already cleaned it just in case. I'll double check the wires as you mentioned. I have also gone through a couple shock cycles as I mentioned, as this low output has been going on for while and I shocked to rule out the algae problem. I'll rerun a overnight FC test, but previous test are consistent levels.

Any other suggestions appreciated.
 
Hi Sean

Good to talk with you again. Since your recommendations on the autopilot - It's been great.

Here is what it is displaying w/ pump off - (may be out of order). Software v4.2, SC-60; Power Level 3, Minerals 2900, add 24lbs, temp 85, 23v, 8.0 A;


I double checked the Salt (using taylor drops) and got a reading of 3000; I did add some water recently. Also, I ran the boost mode last night and it is reading FC 4.0, CC 0 tonight -- It is full sun exposure and temp is 90; I'll recheck FC in the morning and repost if it is differnet.

Let me know your thoughts - I can add salt if you think it will help.
 
bumping this back up for suggestions. It is still low output .... FC range 1-2.....

Also, I have it on boost cyle (after cleaning everything) and test water from return jet - the FC output is 2ppm.

Thoughts.
 
Sorry...wasn't paying attention and missed your reply on this.

The cell amps and volts are correct and within normal operating range.

With the system running, crack open the lower cell union, enough to get some water leaking out. Test the chlorine level of the sample. You should see anywhere from 1-5 ppm higher than your pool water. This indicates that the system is working.

Have you added anything other than muriatic acid?

Treated for Algae? Sodium Bromide based algaecides can cause problems with testing for a chlorine residual.

Tested for Phoshates? excessive phosphates can allow high chlorine consumption.
 
I'll try the test you indicated and reply back.

The only thing I've added in the past month (atleast 3 weeks ago) was borax to increase borates/ muratic acid to offset. I only added about half not the full amout. I also added some clarifier. I've also been adding bleech (shock after increased bather load).

After the low salt reading, I added 40lbs of salt. I added some Poly60 in May - but nothing since.

In early June - I tested for phosphates and it was low 200 range if memory serves. We've had alot of pollen - so I'll have it tested again.
 

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i read on another post here re: problems with lack of chlorine and an autopilot sean's comment about potentially a blown cell fuse..the question i have is if the cell fuse was blown, would this then show up as a fault. i have the autopilot soft touch that gives the led lights if errors. sorry if this appears a bit OT, but given we both have a problem it seems with cell output, i thought it could be a valid question that relates to both of our situations.
 
Tenax, if the cell fuse was blown, the DIG would display a LOW AMPS/CELL? and the Soft Touch would display a 3x Flashing Service light.
There would also be no chlorine produced.
(I'll respond to your e-mail off line)

This is not the case with JMCST. He's still producing but is needing a higher output than last year.

Not yet sure why though.

A cell, doesn't matter which manufacturer, is like a battery. It works the same throughout most of it's life and then quickly fades out as it's approaching the end of it's life.

On the Digital display, this is indicated as high voltage (28 - 29 volts) and low amps (below 75% of the Cell Power setting).
First though, checking and verifying that the salt level is at 3000 ppm or more, the cell is clean of any scale, the water temperature is not too cold (below 70) and there is sufficient flow.

With outdoor pools, it's recommended to get your stabilizer level up to about 80 ppm.
 
Poolsean said:
A cell, doesn't matter which manufacturer, is like a battery. It works the same throughout most of it's life and then quickly fades out as it's approaching the end of it's life.
Click to expand...

Having personally tested a lot of cell material from different manufacturers, i would object to that, but I don't think that's the source of the problem here.
 
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