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Thread: Taylor K-1000 VS K-1001

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    nofa93's Avatar
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    Taylor K-1000 VS K-1001

    Hi Everyone,

    Quick question for you. I'm looking to get the Taylor k-1000 for my day to day testing as I have been using the FAS-DPD method exclusively so far. I live in Canada and it seems I am only able to order the k-1001 and not the k-1000. What is the difference exactly and would the later model suit my daily needs.

    Thanks again.
    20,000 Gallons Vinyl 16x32 Inground with Stamped concrete decking. Hayward Sand Filter. DIY Diaphragm pump injection system. K-2006C Test Kit.
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    Re: Taylor K-1000 VS K-1001

    The K-1000 is OTO based and the K-1001 is DPD based.

    From an earlier post that JasonLion responded to http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/21779-OTO-or-DPD, the following summed it up nicely:

    "It depends on what you are doing. They both have advantages and disadvantages, just in different places. DPD can distinguish between FC and CC, which OTO can't. On the other hand DPD will show zero chlorine when the FC level is actually very high. DPD is noticeably better at distinguishing between FC levels around 3 to 5.

    The FAS-DPD test is much better than either of those in nearly every way."
    16k gal plaster with raised spa, Jandy DEV60 filter, 2 HP 2-speed SHPF Jandy Stealth pump
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    nofa93's Avatar
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    Re: Taylor K-1000 VS K-1001

    Alright. Thanks for the clarification. I absolutely love and prefer the FAS-DPD method but the reagents are expensive to replace here in Canada. I was looking for an alternative for daily testing. I'm surprised that the DPD is easier to read than OTO... I was thinking the opposite. Thanks!

    20,000 Gallons Vinyl 16x32 Inground with Stamped concrete decking. Hayward Sand Filter. DIY Diaphragm pump injection system. K-2006C Test Kit.
    450 Gallons Standalone Acrylic CALSPA 2006.
    Canadians, Get your test kit here!.

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    Re: Taylor K-1000 VS K-1001

    So if you already have a TF-100 test kit, just use the existing FAS-DPD reagents included?


    17'x35' 22,500 gal. Gunite IGP 3.5-8.0 ft. IC60 SWG, 2 skimmers, 2 main drains, 4 returns. CCP520 cartridge filter, 3hp IntelliFlo 2 VST VSP, EasyTouch 4, ScreenLogic2, 2 IntelliBrite Color LEDs, Poolmiser autofill, UltraTemp 120R H/C 125K BTU heat pump, Diamond Brite Super Blue, No spa or water features.

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    Re: Taylor K-1000 VS K-1001

    For daily testing, I prefer the K-2xxx series DPD test (I got a K-2005 but it comes with some smaller kits too) because it has a comparator that goes from 0-10ppm FC., which is useful for TFP methods where you often have/want 5-10ppm FC. Worth the extra cost IMO. The K-1001 only shows 0-5ppm I believe.

    I still use the TF-100 and the FAS-DPD FC test regularly for the most accuracy, but for everyday status it's nice just squeezing out 15 drops into the 2 tubes and gettingFC and pH right away, rather than breaking out the Speedstir, trying to keep the DPD powder dry, etc. I'm a bit colorblind and I'm still able to get pretty close correlation between the DPD and FAS-DPD tests -- the trick for me is using a phone app that displays a bright white screen that I hold behind the comparator for consistent backlighting.

    I found the OTO K-1000 style test to be useless for anything more than "is there any chlorine at all in the pool?"
    21000gal IG plaster, Sacramento CA area (late 1950s/early 60s)
    Filter: Cartridge, Pentair CCP420 (2014)
    Main pump: Pentair IntelliFlo VS (2015)
    Boost pump: 3/4hp (2011), Polaris 280 cleaner (unknown age)

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    JoyfulNoise's Avatar
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    Taylor K-1000 VS K-1001

    You can get a K-1001, #9056 high range comparator block and a 2-oz bottle of R-0004 pH reagent for over half the cost of a K-2005. Just keep in mind that the R-0014 pH reagent that comes with the K-1001 ONLY works with the midget comparator block that comes with the kit. The R-0001 and R-0002 DPD reagent works with either the midget block or the #9056 comparator.


    Matt
    16k IG PebbleTec pool, 650gal spa, spillway and waterfall, 3HP IntelliFlo VS / 1.5HP WhisperFlo, Pentair QuadDE-100 filter, IC40 SWCG, MasterTemp 400k BTU/hr NG heater, KreepyKrauly suction-side cleaner Dolphin S300i robot, EasyTouch controls, city water, K-1001, K-2006 and K-1766 test kits, Mannitol test for borates

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    Re: Taylor K-1000 VS K-1001

    Thanks. I've picked up:

    9056 comparator block
    R-0004 pH reagent 2 oz
    R-0001 reagent 2 oz
    R-0002 reagent 2 oz


    17'x35' 22,500 gal. Gunite IGP 3.5-8.0 ft. IC60 SWG, 2 skimmers, 2 main drains, 4 returns. CCP520 cartridge filter, 3hp IntelliFlo 2 VST VSP, EasyTouch 4, ScreenLogic2, 2 IntelliBrite Color LEDs, Poolmiser autofill, UltraTemp 120R H/C 125K BTU heat pump, Diamond Brite Super Blue, No spa or water features.

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    JoyfulNoise's Avatar
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    Re: Taylor K-1000 VS K-1001

    Quote Originally Posted by miles267 View Post
    Thanks. I've picked up:

    9056 comparator block
    R-0004 pH reagent 2 oz
    R-0001 reagent 2 oz
    R-0002 reagent 2 oz


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    That's a perfect daily tester kit.

    Here's a trick to help train your eyes to distinguish the colors of pink on the comparator block -

    The sample volume of water on the FC side of the block is 9.5mL. That's very close to 10mL. You can use the R-0871 FAS titrant to titrate the pink color you get after adding R-0001/R-0002 to the test sample. The precision of the test is 0.5ppm/drop. So if you think your seeing a color between 3ppm and 5ppm on the block, then it should take about 8 drops of R-0871 to turn it clear. You can then add the R-0003 drops to see if there are any CCs but the comparator block isn't really intense enough in color at the low end to let you see anything but fairly excessive CCs (1-2ppm).

    It's good way to develop confidence in your visual color readings.


    Matt
    16k IG PebbleTec pool, 650gal spa, spillway and waterfall, 3HP IntelliFlo VS / 1.5HP WhisperFlo, Pentair QuadDE-100 filter, IC40 SWCG, MasterTemp 400k BTU/hr NG heater, KreepyKrauly suction-side cleaner Dolphin S300i robot, EasyTouch controls, city water, K-1001, K-2006 and K-1766 test kits, Mannitol test for borates

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    Re: Taylor K-1000 VS K-1001

    Finally got my new 9056 comparator block. It seems to only have a 9 mL mark on side of the CL test. I fill to 9 mL and put one scoop of R-0870 into vial. My color appears to match somewhere between 3-5 Cl.

    How do you use the R-0004, R-0002 and R-0001 with this block?


    17'x35' 22,500 gal. Gunite IGP 3.5-8.0 ft. IC60 SWG, 2 skimmers, 2 main drains, 4 returns. CCP520 cartridge filter, 3hp IntelliFlo 2 VST VSP, EasyTouch 4, ScreenLogic2, 2 IntelliBrite Color LEDs, Poolmiser autofill, UltraTemp 120R H/C 125K BTU heat pump, Diamond Brite Super Blue, No spa or water features.

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    JoyfulNoise's Avatar
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    Re: Taylor K-1000 VS K-1001

    5 drops of R-0001 then 5 drops of R-0002. 5 drops of R-0004 on the pH side. Cap and gently invert to mix.

    Read colors.

    You can then use the R-0871 titrant drops on the FC to go from pink to clear.

    Remember that R-0001/0002 is basically the same as adding the powder (R-0870).


    Matt
    16k IG PebbleTec pool, 650gal spa, spillway and waterfall, 3HP IntelliFlo VS / 1.5HP WhisperFlo, Pentair QuadDE-100 filter, IC40 SWCG, MasterTemp 400k BTU/hr NG heater, KreepyKrauly suction-side cleaner Dolphin S300i robot, EasyTouch controls, city water, K-1001, K-2006 and K-1766 test kits, Mannitol test for borates

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    Taylor K-1000 VS K-1001

    Cool. Making sure I got it:

    Cl:
    - filled water to 9 mL mark
    - add 5 drops R-0001
    - add 5 drops R-0002
    - shake
    - read color
    - add/count drops of R-0871 until clear

    pH:
    - fill water to 44 mL mark (highest water
    mark
    - add 5 drops of R-0004
    - shake
    - read color

    17'x35' 22,500 gal. Gunite IGP 3.5-8.0 ft. IC60 SWG, 2 skimmers, 2 main drains, 4 returns. CCP520 cartridge filter, 3hp IntelliFlo 2 VST VSP, EasyTouch 4, ScreenLogic2, 2 IntelliBrite Color LEDs, Poolmiser autofill, UltraTemp 120R H/C 125K BTU heat pump, Diamond Brite Super Blue, No spa or water features.

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    JoyfulNoise's Avatar
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    Re: Taylor K-1000 VS K-1001

    Quote Originally Posted by miles267 View Post
    Cool. Making sure I got it:

    pH:
    - filled water to 44 mL mark
    - add 5 drops R-0001
    - add 5 drops R-0002
    Smaller block showed 7.5. 9056 shows closer to 7.8.

    CL:
    - fill water to 9 mL mark (highest
    mark on mine)
    - add 5 drops of R-0004
    - looked about 5 CL
    - added 9 drops of R-0871 and water went clear



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    No. That's not right

    - - - Updated - - -

    Fill the tester block, both sides with water. I find it easiest to fill the comparator by inverting it, push your arm into the pool up to your elbow then turn the tube right side up. Both sides will be filled to the top.

    Then I drain off the pH side until it reaches 44mL mark and cap that side. Then I carefully drain off the chlorine side until it reaches the 9mL mark.

    To the pH side you add 5 drops of R-0004.

    To the chlorine side, you add 5 drops of R-0001 and then 5 drops of R-0002.

    You put the rubber cap on and then invert gently to mix. Read the colors.

    If you want to be sure of your FC reading, use the R-0871 titrant on the chlorine side to turn the pink color back to clear. The number of drops is roughly equivalent to the DPD-FAS test you would do with a 10mL water sample.
    Matt
    16k IG PebbleTec pool, 650gal spa, spillway and waterfall, 3HP IntelliFlo VS / 1.5HP WhisperFlo, Pentair QuadDE-100 filter, IC40 SWCG, MasterTemp 400k BTU/hr NG heater, KreepyKrauly suction-side cleaner Dolphin S300i robot, EasyTouch controls, city water, K-1001, K-2006 and K-1766 test kits, Mannitol test for borates

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    Re: Taylor K-1000 VS K-1001

    Thanks JoyfulNoise for your guidance. I'll retry it and post back.


    17'x35' 22,500 gal. Gunite IGP 3.5-8.0 ft. IC60 SWG, 2 skimmers, 2 main drains, 4 returns. CCP520 cartridge filter, 3hp IntelliFlo 2 VST VSP, EasyTouch 4, ScreenLogic2, 2 IntelliBrite Color LEDs, Poolmiser autofill, UltraTemp 120R H/C 125K BTU heat pump, Diamond Brite Super Blue, No spa or water features.

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    Re: Taylor K-1000 VS K-1001

    It's a little more cumbersome but I think I may actually prefer measuring pH with the smaller block and FC with the powder and R-0871 method. Just seems dialed in a bit finer...although it clutters up my workbench more.


    17'x35' 22,500 gal. Gunite IGP 3.5-8.0 ft. IC60 SWG, 2 skimmers, 2 main drains, 4 returns. CCP520 cartridge filter, 3hp IntelliFlo 2 VST VSP, EasyTouch 4, ScreenLogic2, 2 IntelliBrite Color LEDs, Poolmiser autofill, UltraTemp 120R H/C 125K BTU heat pump, Diamond Brite Super Blue, No spa or water features.

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    JoyfulNoise's Avatar
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    Taylor K-1000 VS K-1001

    That's fine.

    I use the K-1001 for daily FC & pH checking. I don't use the R-0871 drops with it because I'm good at guessing which shade of pink I'm seeing on the chlorine side and I've rarely had any trouble guessing the right pH color once I practiced it enough. So for me, the K-1001 is way less complicated and easier to use on a daily basis than lugging out the entire test kit and fiddling with a SpeedStir and powder bottle. I only do the full set of tests once per week on the weekend.

    You just use whatever works best for you. And, with those new to TFP, its best to use the big testkit daily so you get a lot of practice with the various chemicals and learn about your pools needs. In the beginning I used my test kit everyday and I would sit out on the backyard table and slowly do all the tests. I would line everything up neatly with my notebook and read each bottle to make sure I was grabbing the correct reagent. I had the instruction card sitting in front of me and I would carefully follow each step. It would take me over an hour to test my water.

    Nowadays, it's more like 5 minutes....


    Matt
    16k IG PebbleTec pool, 650gal spa, spillway and waterfall, 3HP IntelliFlo VS / 1.5HP WhisperFlo, Pentair QuadDE-100 filter, IC40 SWCG, MasterTemp 400k BTU/hr NG heater, KreepyKrauly suction-side cleaner Dolphin S300i robot, EasyTouch controls, city water, K-1001, K-2006 and K-1766 test kits, Mannitol test for borates

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