I had the pump motor rebuilt early last year, this year I just fired up the system and it seems to be a little loud and hot. I ran overnight last night and water seems to flow fine though the filter and out into the pool. I just wanted to make sure i wired correctly, or what else to trouble shoot. I also noticed the salt generator control panel won't allow me to go in low speed. Please let me know your thoughts. The pump is Hayward Super pump C48L2N134B1 (sp1610zm). I have attached pictures.
Pump motor running loud and hot
- Thread starter bigdave
- Start date
I am confused by your low speed comment. That motor is not a 2 speed motor.
If the motor is running, then the wiring must be fine.
Loud and hot typically point to failing bearings.
If the motor is running, then the wiring must be fine.
Loud and hot typically point to failing bearings.
That would explain why it doesn't run in low speed. I assumed it was always two speed but never played with the settings. Sounds like I need to replace the motor. It appears the direct motor replacement is UST1152 for one speed and STS1152 for two speed. Will the STS1152 bolt up to this Hayward super pump housing?
Is it worth the double cost to go with two speed?
I also wonder if my 1.5hp is overkill? Pool is ~25k gals, I have 4 inlets, 2 skimmers, and 2 main drains. The piping is 2". Skimmers and inlets are about 35ft avg from pump, main drain about 20ft. I have no water features or hot tub. I do have an automatic pool cleaner.
Is it worth the double cost to go with two speed?
I also wonder if my 1.5hp is overkill? Pool is ~25k gals, I have 4 inlets, 2 skimmers, and 2 main drains. The piping is 2". Skimmers and inlets are about 35ft avg from pump, main drain about 20ft. I have no water features or hot tub. I do have an automatic pool cleaner.
The 1.5HP Super Pump is not that big of a pump, but you could certainly get by with a 1HP. I would certainly suggest going with a 2-speed motor. If you decide to get a 1HP 2-speed, then you will also need to get the 1HP impeller (~$20 I think). You will also need a shaft seal and I would suggest just getting a go-kit to replace all the seals.
I am not too good at specific motor recommendations. I recall some concern about different diameters. Try searching the forum for super pump 2-speed motors and you can likely find the recommended model numbers.
Note if you get a 2-speed, you will need to add a switch to select speeds. A house 3-way light switch works well. We can help with wiring if needed.
I am not too good at specific motor recommendations. I recall some concern about different diameters. Try searching the forum for super pump 2-speed motors and you can likely find the recommended model numbers.
Note if you get a 2-speed, you will need to add a switch to select speeds. A house 3-way light switch works well. We can help with wiring if needed.
- May 3, 2007
- 16,833
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
A direct replacment would be the STS1152R and is the same diameter and same bolt pattern as your old motor. However, it is a 230v motor. Is your current motor wired for 230v?
If you want to downsize, you could go with a STS1102RV1 and swap out the impeller too.
Yes
If you want to downsize, you could go with a STS1102RV1 and swap out the impeller too.
I appreciate your time and input. My salt generator has a control panel that claims to control the motor speed (SWG Autopilot 60).
Is the STS1152 and STS1152R the same diameter and bolt pattern? Yes, my current motor is wired for 230V.
Does anyone have experience with inyopools.com sales? They seem to have a decent price on this 2 speed motor option.
http://www.inyopools.com/Products/00200017003499.htm
Is the STS1152 and STS1152R the same diameter and bolt pattern? Yes, my current motor is wired for 230V.
Does anyone have experience with inyopools.com sales? They seem to have a decent price on this 2 speed motor option.
http://www.inyopools.com/Products/00200017003499.htm
- May 3, 2007
- 16,833
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
I just ordered the 2 speed motor for replacement and gasket kit. Thanks for recommendation.
1. My current wiring has 3 wires pulled for the 230v (pix at top of thread), do I need to pull another wire in order to have the SWG control the low speed as well?
2. Is this the best way to control the low versus high with my current setup (ie SWG autopilot 220 and motor), or is it better to add a external switch?
1. My current wiring has 3 wires pulled for the 230v (pix at top of thread), do I need to pull another wire in order to have the SWG control the low speed as well?
2. Is this the best way to control the low versus high with my current setup (ie SWG autopilot 220 and motor), or is it better to add a external switch?
- May 3, 2007
- 16,833
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Now that the pump is on its way to my home, I was doing some reading about using the Autopilot to control the 2 speed and came across this quote from Jason.
The AutoPilot Digital only has one pump relay. When you have a two speed pump there are two different ways you can wire it. Either the AutoPilot turns the pump on and off and there is a manual switch to change speed, or the AutoPilot switches between high and low speed and there is a manual switch to turn the pump on and off.
1. Does this mean that by wiring according to the autopilot manual to control my pump switch between high and low, that my pump will not shut off? So I would need to install a manual switch of some sort? If so, any suggestions on how to do this?
2. Question on wiring since I am a do it yourself person. I have a green, blue, black wire pulled. Any suggestion on color for additional wire ? White?
3. Anyone have a link to wiring the autopilot with the sts1152r 2 speed pump for reference?
4. I have read about a pump relay kit for my autopilot 220, my system was purchased in 2007. Not sure if I need this or not, still trying to research on the forum.
5. Sometimes I have pump prime loss when starting up, will this be a problem for cycling at low speed using timer?
The AutoPilot Digital only has one pump relay. When you have a two speed pump there are two different ways you can wire it. Either the AutoPilot turns the pump on and off and there is a manual switch to change speed, or the AutoPilot switches between high and low speed and there is a manual switch to turn the pump on and off.
1. Does this mean that by wiring according to the autopilot manual to control my pump switch between high and low, that my pump will not shut off? So I would need to install a manual switch of some sort? If so, any suggestions on how to do this?
2. Question on wiring since I am a do it yourself person. I have a green, blue, black wire pulled. Any suggestion on color for additional wire ? White?
3. Anyone have a link to wiring the autopilot with the sts1152r 2 speed pump for reference?
4. I have read about a pump relay kit for my autopilot 220, my system was purchased in 2007. Not sure if I need this or not, still trying to research on the forum.
5. Sometimes I have pump prime loss when starting up, will this be a problem for cycling at low speed using timer?
- May 3, 2007
- 16,833
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
1. Add a timer control. http://www.amazon.com/Intermatic-T104-208-277-Volt-Mechanical-Switch/dp/B000BQOX88
2. For the two speed operation, you want another colored wire such as Red. Red, Black and Blue are hot wires in the US. White is always neutral and not required for a 230v motor.
3. It is in the manual
4. Not sure
5. That is usually because of an air leak in the pump basket lid. You need to fix that.
2. For the two speed operation, you want another colored wire such as Red. Red, Black and Blue are hot wires in the US. White is always neutral and not required for a 230v motor.
3. It is in the manual
4. Not sure
5. That is usually because of an air leak in the pump basket lid. You need to fix that.
Is sounds like the majority of people wire the timer control between the SWG and Circuit breaker box? So Pump wired to SWG to Timer control to CB.
So do you match the timer control settings in both the SWG and the Timer Control?
The timer control is just an on/off switch. You program all your times, low/high settings, etc...in the SWG..correct?
I do already have a T104P3, which I believe should work.
I believe Jason made a comment about just using a switch at the pump to flip between h/l. If correct, does that mean I would leave the whole system as/is which was wired for one speed pump and also not have to pull additional wire from swg?
So do you match the timer control settings in both the SWG and the Timer Control?
The timer control is just an on/off switch. You program all your times, low/high settings, etc...in the SWG..correct?
I do already have a T104P3, which I believe should work.
I believe Jason made a comment about just using a switch at the pump to flip between h/l. If correct, does that mean I would leave the whole system as/is which was wired for one speed pump and also not have to pull additional wire from swg?
- May 3, 2007
- 16,833
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
I finally got the new pump and from being out of town for the past 2 weeks. My old pump is officially dead. I ran out today to get a switch to hook up the pump and all I could find was an overkill $80 switch rated at 2hp. I did see a cost effective solution rated at 20amp, but only 3/4hp. If you know of any other switches that can be purchased local at Lowes or Home Depot open on the 4th, please let me know.
My pump is STS1152R 1 1/2hp and the switch is Pass & Seymour 1228-I 3 position maintained contact double pole, double throw.
Please help to verify the wiring so I can successfully hook up this weekend.
This is my plan, please let me know if correct or not. I have attached pictures of pump and switch.
I will run one hot wire directly from Autopilot to L2 connection on pump.
I will then run the second hot wire from Autopilot to Switch pole L1. I will run an individual wire from switch pole A1 to the pump L1 (high), then run another individual wire from switch pole B1 to pump A (low).
My thought is by switching the manual switch up, that the hard wired L2 and the switched L1 will complete the 220. My worry is will the low speed work correctly when the hard wire L2 and the other switch position connects the other leg of 220 to A, with nothing on the L1 pump terminal.
Confirmation and help appreciated.
My pump is STS1152R 1 1/2hp and the switch is Pass & Seymour 1228-I 3 position maintained contact double pole, double throw.
Please help to verify the wiring so I can successfully hook up this weekend.
This is my plan, please let me know if correct or not. I have attached pictures of pump and switch.
I will run one hot wire directly from Autopilot to L2 connection on pump.
I will then run the second hot wire from Autopilot to Switch pole L1. I will run an individual wire from switch pole A1 to the pump L1 (high), then run another individual wire from switch pole B1 to pump A (low).
My thought is by switching the manual switch up, that the hard wired L2 and the switched L1 will complete the 220. My worry is will the low speed work correctly when the hard wire L2 and the other switch position connects the other leg of 220 to A, with nothing on the L1 pump terminal.
Confirmation and help appreciated.
That sounds like the way they work. One line stays the same and the other line provides power to one or the other to select speed.
- May 3, 2007
- 16,833
- Pool Size
- 20000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Success! Works perfect.....
I ended up going to HD and getting the Gardner Bender Model # GSW-16 for $5.99 that is rated up to 1.5hp pumps.
Only weird part was when rebuilding the pump there was "no" impeller ring on my super pump. I read that some pumps don't have this ring on the end of impeller.
See pix, Switch box is located below autopilot. Thanks for everyones help.
]
I ended up going to HD and getting the Gardner Bender Model # GSW-16 for $5.99 that is rated up to 1.5hp pumps.
Only weird part was when rebuilding the pump there was "no" impeller ring on my super pump. I read that some pumps don't have this ring on the end of impeller.
See pix, Switch box is located below autopilot. Thanks for everyones help.
]